So this summer when I bought #901 I noticed the temp creeping up to 3/4 then back down note we did hit 108 some days, after some research here and cool ideas this is what I have, first off I do have a big FMIC so it doesn't help, I put on an Evo 3 Koyo, 12" electric fan and made a shroud for it, also took off the oem fog lamps to create some air vents to lead to the radiator, sealed the radiator to body crack with weather striping, changed the thermostat to 160, here are some pics (not the best) but hopefully you get an idea of what I'm doing, so if there is anything else that mite help please let me know, I don't know why but the browser flips my picture of the bumper, thanks for your help!!!

Are you still having cooling problems after all this?

^^ Haven't had a chance to run it in the heat since I'm waiting for some parts that are being ceramic coated and some parts I'm using as mold to make into CF parts

You will most likely need another fan. I put a pusher on mine when the factory pusher was and wired it to a thermo switch. This is a lot easier if you don't have AC. Throw a 180 thermostat back in it, the car will like it more than the 160.

Quoting 4thStroke :
You will most likely need another fan. I put a pusher on mine when the factory pusher was and wired it to a thermo switch. This is a lot easier if you don't have AC. Throw a 180 thermostat back in it, the car will like it more than the 160.



I'll put a pusher next to the AC fan, and change the it to where the oem AC fan kicks in with the thermo and the one next to it when the AC one should,I need the AC cause my kids love my "race Car" as they call it, I'll get the 180 then, do you mind me asking why this is? ( not trying to be a jerk just trying to learn)

You need two fans, and to close that gap on the bottom, either with a thin sheet metal plate or a composite plate so air is channeled through the radiator and not lost out the bottom. A vented hood would help to alleviate hot air also. And wrap all hot pipes in the vicinity with some heat wrap. A upper radiator plate would also be beneficial so air does not flow over the top of the radiator.

The ecu is set up to use the 180 degree stat. You could use the lower temp but would have to change a lot of temperature trigger point in the ecu code.

with a lower stat Cooling will start sooner but if your running hot now 60 seconds of earlier cooling willnot help it stay at a lower temperature in warm weather. The 180 stat opens just as much as a 160at max cooling, however in cooler tempreture it will take much longer for the ecu to see "operating temperature" if it gets there at all. Tough to explain but its a real issue.

There's some good advice in this thread but there's some things that are still unanswered. You shouldn't be over heating if everything else is mechanically sound with that said what turbo are you running that can make you overheat. With that said when I had my 16g and my 18g turbos I never overheated and this was with a stock radiator and fans, car was daily driven and got beat on everyday.

Once I changed turbo setups things changed I can't remember if the Holshit made it over heat by my 3065 made the car over heat, reason being it would heat up one side of my radiator. This is a eBay China radiator and a real SPAL fan 1360 or 1380 cfm I can't remember which one check RRE site.

It would only overheat with multiple pulls and stop and go traffic, to fix it I would just turn on the AC the additional fan helps cool the other side of the radiator. So that's how I fixed my over heating issue.

I guess my question is was the car always over heating since you got it or did it start to overheating after it's been running normal?

Didn't over heat when I got it, long trips and stop and go drives, as soon as I did the big FMIC Temps started to go up a bit, so I researched here and started these mods, I'm running a 16g turbo

That's odd it shouldn't over heat with that turbo what FMIC are you running and why are you running electric fans? The stock fans are super efficient if I didn't change turbo set ups I would keep the stockers with the stock shroud on them. The FP intake manifold and the Holshit forced me to change my fan setup.

Don't know the brand my little brother bought it for his GSX but couldn't use it, the original fan shroud was melted a bit and wouldn't sit right on the Evo3 Koyo so I replaced it

Quoting ExplicitCC:
Didn't over heat when I got it, long trips and stop and go drives, as soon as I did the big FMIC Temps started to go up a bit, so I researched here and started these mods, I'm running a 16g turbo



If the car ran cool until you upgraded the FMIC, then the FMIC is the issue. It's probably hindering airflow to the point where the radiator can't cool the car down. There aren't a lot of solutions to fix your issue. Remove the FMIC, or put more ducting in place that redirects enough air for the radiator to work again properly. Those are pretty much your only options.

I just resolved some cooling issues that were caused by a lack of airflow, and can relate to your frustration. I'll tell you first hand that cooling system upgrades, heat proofing and extra fans are not going to remedy your problem. They may help some, but the only way to fix the core issue is to improve the amount of airflow to the radiator.

You can read about all the sh*t I tried to no avail. Learn from my trial and error: click

Yeah I already said that.

Source and try hard to use the stock pusher infront of the ac condenser, it moves alot of air on high setting. I run it on my gay with ac and a front mount and never overheats here in the arizona heat. I have a 180 thermostat and a spal 1350cfm on a evo 3 aluminum radiator. Even have a big trans cooler there too so i know the radiator is working overtime. And + 1 on ducting.

Just a reminder on mechanical stuff. Do your fans come on when they are supposed to? Are you using a 50x50 mix of anti freeze to water? Is you water pump in good shape? Any reason to expect a leaky head gasket?

My car has stock pusher puller dsm radiator water neck 16g turbo ac condenser and fmic. Only time I saw the temp raise was when the fan connection was acting up.

60/40 water/coolant plus wetter water (added after problem) fans do come on at the proper time, head gasket and water pump where just changed by previous owner, gave me receipts for it, with mitsubishi head gasket, will have an update next week

Quoting dsmless:
Source and try hard to use the stock pusher infront of the ac condenser, it moves alot of air on high setting. I run it on my gay with ac and a front mount and never overheats here in the arizona heat. I have a 180 thermostat and a spal 1350cfm on a evo 3 aluminum radiator. Even have a big trans cooler there too so i know the radiator is working overtime. And + 1 on ducting.



Clarify something for me, are you saying to source an additional stock A/C fan to run as you primary next to your condeser fan?

That's something I've been wanting to do but wasn't sure if they would both fit in the front of the condenser. From eyeballing it it looks like it is doable it would free up space in the engine compartment too.

Is that how you run your fans?

I have 2 fans, the stock pusher that goes infront of the ac condenser on the drivers side and a spal high flow puller on the passenger side. Thats it.
The passenger side puller turns on/off by the thermo switch on the bottom of the radiator via the ecu. The other one turns on when the ac is turned on, also have it wired into a seprate switch so that when I know I will be in traffic of hot conditions I an turn it on independently.

I gotcha that's the same setup I have, I thought you had two condenser fans it's something I been wanting to do. I'm not sure if two condenser fans will fit side by side.

You can fit a 10 inch fan, I tried to do my 12 but didn't fit