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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179564 posted 07/08/14 07:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

My cables contact the underside of the throttle body as well due to the Magnus. It's a common issue. Anthony (Mitsuturbo) fixed this by installing an ISC from a different car, which is a great idea. It bothered me at first, but after years of it being that way, I don't even worry about it anymore.




My slave cylinder is shit, so I'm getting some notchy shifting because of that for sure. I was concerned that the cables contacting the TB were possibly a contributing factor as well. Do you think that's the case at all?

Quoting ApexHunter:

~20 miles sounds about right. I think you want to get the oil up to operating temp, call it 180 or 200, and let the temp combined with the circulation get any left over micro grit and crap that didn't make it out during final cleaning/assembly.




Thanks, David. I'll change it in a few more miles then.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/08/14 07:33 PM)

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1180098 posted 07/13/14 09:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just a few small updates. I got the new slave cylinder installed, and the car shifted much better. I still think I need to make some adjustments to get the clutch perfect.

I picked up some new lugs. They look great compared to the old ones.




I also fabbed up a new J Pipe. I think I'm going to heat wrap it. Either that, or I think I'm going to try and fab up a heat shield for the FP exhaust manifold.



I drove the car around a little bit. It seems like it wants to stall every time I come to a stop. I haven't been able to set the base timing yet, so I think that's part of it. But, for you guys running the Magnus manifold, did you have to make a BISS adjustment?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1180101 posted 07/13/14 10:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I can't remember if I had to adjust the BISS or not since it's been so long since I installed my Magnus, but I did have to retune since I was using MAFTpro SD at the time. Probably a good idea to just go through all the basic idle hoops right now anyway.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11886 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (96.39.152.94) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1180103 posted 07/13/14 10:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey Brett JNZtuning makes an FP manifold heat shield. click



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara"

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1181920 posted 07/28/14 01:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Brett, did you have to modify your mishimoto fan shroud at all to make it fit to your radiator? How do you like it overall? Thanks



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182084 posted 07/28/14 11:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/29/14 12:12 PM)

Posts: 3358 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182143 posted 07/29/14 02:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Are those lugs aluminum?

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182148 posted 07/29/14 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.




Thanks, that's what I was looking at. I just didn't know if it would bolt right in or not.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (172.56.32.144) | Report this post to a Moderator

faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182181 posted 07/29/14 06:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah I was looking at the dual fan shroud too but I do have a 14in (new) and 12in (used) slim fans so I'll see what I do. That mishimoto shroud looks like its on sale too $185.50 at extreme psi



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182188 posted 07/29/14 07:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The shroud is for 12" fans. I'm not sure you can fit a 14".



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3358 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182215 posted 07/29/14 09:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting 89Patches:

Are those lugs aluminum?




They are made from forged 50BV30 steel, whatever the hell that means...



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/29/14 09:54 PM)

Posts: 3358 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182224 posted 07/29/14 11:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ahh, I was going to say if they were aluminum throw them in the trash! To many bad experiences with aluminum lugs

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182456 posted 07/31/14 02:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So, just got back from a 2 week vacation in SoCal. I got to mess with the car a bit today, and got most of the kinks worked out. Turns out my alternator was bad. At first I suspected a bad battery, but the more I though about it, the more I felt I had a charging issue. I swapped it out and the charging system seems to be working great now.

My other issue was a super low idle. I screwed around a bit with the BISS screw in an attempt to get the idle sorted out. I got the car to idle well enough to set the base timing to 5* BTDC. After I got the base timing set, I still wasn't super happy with the idle. I decided to boost leak test the car. I threw on the tester and charged up the system. I could hear a hiss coming from around the throttle body, but for the life of me I couldn't find it. I sprayed soapy water on every fuckin thing, and could not find the leak. Turns out, I think the BISS port on the inside of the throttle body is leaking. If I turn the BISS screw in, the hissing gets quiet and goes away completely when the screw bottomed out. If I turn the BISS out, the hiss gets louder. After looking at a picture of the OEM gasket and talking to prove_it, I'm sure all the ports inside need to be sealed up (the one I believe is causing my issue is circled in green in the pic below), and I don't think the gasket I have installed is doing the job. I ordered a new gasket, and will have it tomorrow. Hopefully that corrects the problem and clears up what little idle issues are left.


I changed the initial break in oil. I didn't see metal chunks or anything crazy when I drained it. After I got the timing set, and figured out the idle thing, I took the car for a drive. I couldn't be happier with how it is running. It feels super strong, although I haven't really been able to get into boost much yet. I'm concentrating on nice steady 3rd gear pulls under light boost and then easing off the throttle nicely into engine braking. I'm at about 30 miles on the brand new motor. I want to get to around 100 miles and do another compression test to see how the motor is breaking in. So far, it doesn't smoke, leak, knock, or anything. Hell, it doesn't even have a lifter tick (apparently 3G lifters work!). I really am pleased with how the car has turned out so far. Knock on wood, I'll get some miles on her and be ready for the Shootout!

I should have the throttle body gasket fixed tomorrow. Aside from that, I have a passenger power window issue to sort out (identified a bad ground somewhere). Otherwise, the car is straight. I have some little finishing touches to take care of, and then gotta get her all cleaned up. I got a clay bar and all the goodies for a thorough detail. I hope to have some updates soon! Here's a crappy little cell phone vid I took today (landscape mode for Street Surgeon ). 1813/2000



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/31/14 02:48 PM)

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BpuVR4
Rolled by Accord while sauced


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182463 posted 07/31/14 02:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
this may sound remedial, but would a new biss screw and o-ring not help with the leak, or is it way past that?



06 V70 2.5T/96 850 Turbo
formerly: 372/2k, 555/2k, 957/1k


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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182465 posted 07/31/14 03:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah. So I made sure to check the BISS O ring for leakage when I did the boost leak test. Prove_it actually suggested that to me in another thread, so I made sure to double check it was good. The O ring itself is fine. By adjusting the screw there's a noticeable a change in pitch of the hiss. I'm fairly confident my TB gasket isn't sealing the port inside. I'll pull it off tomorrow to confirm.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3358 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182474 posted 07/31/14 03:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh, and I drove the car around enough to notice the welded diff. First impression is; I hate it. The car just feels like it hates me anytime the wheel isn't straight. Every now and then when I'm turning really sharp, I'll hear a little pop from what sounds like the front CV axles. That normal? If I didn't have to pull the trans to swap the diff, that bitch would be out tomorrow. IDK, maybe it just takes some getting used to...



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182481 posted 07/31/14 05:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Popping axles is normal with a welded diff. It's the sound of them hating life.



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182482 posted 07/31/14 05:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
try to parallel park it.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (208.54.32.202) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182502 posted 07/31/14 08:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You'll get used to it. It's not bad if you don't plan to daily it or parallel park it very often. It should only be noticeable at slow speeds in something like a parking lot environment.

I back my car into my garage whenever I get home from driving it. So I usually back it in as far as I can tell it's not going to hit my shelving behind the car and then push it the rest of the way. But if the front wheels aren't pointed straight when backing it in, good luck pushing it backwards the last few inches. That shit binds up like crazy. I rest easy knowing I won't blow a center diff when launching the car. The slight drawback in driveability in parking lots is worth it to me. Though with just 16g power, I'm not sure that's needed for you.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11886 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (96.39.152.94) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182513 posted 07/31/14 10:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I guess I'll just roll with the welded diff for a while...poping axles and all. Shit reminds me of one of those old ass wooden ships rolling on the high seas, all creaking and crackin'. It's ironic that the welded diff is stronger, because it makes the car feel like the drivetrain is gonna blow apart at any moment. Whateves. I have a regular diff sitting in my old trans, and can swap it in if I decided I can't hang.

I screwed with the passenger side power window for 2 hours trying to figure out the problem. The window wouldn't go up or down using the driver master switch or the passenger window switch, but the motor and switches checked out fine. There's a break in the ground circuit somewhere in the harness between the driver master switch and the connector that leads into the passenger door. I wasn't about to pull the dash apart to find the break, so I ended up just making a new ground circuit at the passenger door. Now the window works fine from the passenger side, but won't work from the driver side until I repair the break. Eventually, I want to replace the dash in the car because there are a few little imperfections. I figured I'll fix the harness when that day comes.

I put all the little stuff back on, like the wipers, hood hinges and some other BS. I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the hood. I need a new insulator, because the old one looks like ass. Problem is, I can't find one for a JDM hood, and I don't wanna pay a million dollars for one either. I'm thinking of just painting the underside of the hood if I can't come up with a better solution. It's just sad to have a nice shiny engine bay, while the underside of the hood looks like poop. I feel like it really takes away from the overall appearance since it's such a large area.

So, stuff left to do: Install the new TB gasket tomorrow, make a final idle adjustment, and hope to put a few miles on the car. After that she'll get a thorough detail sometime this weekend if things go as planned.

Last, but certainly not least, I want to thank everyone here on the forum for the help and guidance over the course of this build. The feedback, help and compliments are/have been greatly appreciated. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it feels great. I can attribute much of what I know and have learned about this platform to the guys here. Guys willing to help however they can...be it sending me parts for damn near free, sourcing stuff I'd never find on my own, or just really taking the time to break shit down so I can understand it. Thanks.

G, you're still a douche








820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/31/14 10:13 PM)

Posts: 3358 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182514 posted 07/31/14 10:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
OH look at you all fancy with your foglight grill.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11886 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (96.39.152.94) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182516 posted 07/31/14 10:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Needed moar lights



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182519 posted 07/31/14 10:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Car looks great dude. Not sure how I feel about the fog light grill though. lol



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182528 posted 07/31/14 11:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just need one of those LED light bars mounted to your roof now And you'll be all set!

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbohf
anyone even read this?
613/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1182529 posted 07/31/14 11:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
tell me more about this power window thing. my right front window does the same. no up or down. my right rear only works if the drivers door is shut. so i assume there is a break at the door, and along with you, i dont want to pull that shit apart. i just jumper it at the switch with my drill battery if i want it up/down...kinda sucks.



Dustin
1991 GVR4 #613
1966 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova 400 4dr Sedan V8

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