Finally got the block back together and procured the engine lift. I ordered some new parts which have put a small hold on progress but they are coming from jegs so shipping should not take too long.

So these are the Evo pistons.



This is the top of the Evo piston with the relative position of the rings marked. The two top rings are stamped "R1" and R2". They are installed with these marks facing the top of the piston. These should be installed at 90 degrees to the pin. The oil rings, of which there are 3, should be place at 45 degree angles to the first two. No ring opening should be in line with the pin and no two rings should be in line with each other. The above is just an example and as you can see there are several ways you could do this and meet those requirements. Sorry the picture shrank when I edited it.



This is the current hold up. Can't put the oil pan back on because I ordered ARP main studs. The factory main bolts are stretch to torque. You set them to an initial torque setting and then give them a 90 degree turn. I didn't check the bolts when I pulled them out as there is a length limit on them I could have used, however I figured given 160K miles or so, probably best to just get ARP's. The motor is still going back in tomorrow since I can install them with the motor in the car.



Top all buttoned up. Standard stuff. For anyone building a motor I do not recommend going the Evo piston route as a set of forged pistons for the 1G rods purchased new will in fact not be much more than the Evo piston path I went. Apparently a company sells them pressed on 1G rods with rings at a decent price but on what point do you sacrifice in the end? Hard to say.



Head on before the timing belt. Standard 3 step torque sequence. I usually go 35/53/80. I would suggest that anyone new to installing a head go back to the start of the sequence after you finish the last bolt. The first bolt will no longer be torqued properly once you flatten the head. In addition, they say to only install the head studs hand tight for a reason. And put moly on the face of the washer or the nut where it makes contact.



Dropped the valve cover on and the timing cover. This I did just to see what it would look like. The Valve cover is the Hyundai one so I need longer bolts which I am in no rush to get considering the main stud delay.



This is just a shot of my trunk. I haven't put the whole thing back together but I sanded it and sprayed the bottom with a black rubberized paint like I used in the wheel wells. It had some rust so I sprayed it with converter first, then washed it out, sanded, vacuumed, etc. I'll eventually make a cover for the whole thing and carpet it.

Tomorrow is block in the bay day. I'll be putting the clutch on and the tranny, and finishing the fuel feed line. The sender is back in place and

Last night after Steven and his wife left I finally got the bug to drop the motor in. Standard install except for my extra cautious movements due to the engine paint. I bolted the new main seal cover and seal in, torqued the flywheel down and mounted up the clutch. I installed the new throwout bearing on the tranny, dropped the motor down to the ground and bolted the tranny up to the engine on the floor. Then I repositioned the chains to get a decent angle on the tranny so it could slide in under the frame rail. Once I had the motor relatively in place above the engine bay, I started to drop it and used my floor jack to catch the tranny on the passenger side. The drivers side of the motor then fell into place and after some minor alignment, it went it literally without a scratch.









That's it for now. I'll be wrapping it up in the next few days while I wait for the Main studs and FPR to arrive.

/brox

Fuel. That fluid which makes the car go. So I rebuilt the entire fuel system. I'm not building a race car so nothing extreme.



First I mounted the Aeromotive FPR on the firewall. I used some 1" SS tube spacers from Lowe's, drilled holes in the firewall and double nutted the bolt on the inside of the cowl.



Here is the feed line. The filter is a 40 micron Trick Flow filter that doesn't weigh alot, so I used a -6 to -6 90 and stuck it right on the end of the rail. Straight fitting out and that line is a single line running all the way too....



...the previously built bulkhead fitting at the sender. I removed the factory feed, return and Evap lines. New lines follow the same route.



Here is the return coming off the FPR. I was building the rail to FPR line when I took this.

Onto the Oil Cooler.



Cooler is a factory unit off a Volvo 740. I figured out the mounting solution and set it in place. I had the steel -6 fittings welded onto the factory Volvo hardlines coming out the bottom of the cooler.



Here you can somewhat see the lines as they run to the filter housing. The car came with the 90 housing so I didn't have much choice but to put a cooler on. The fittings on the housing itself are some special fitting specifically for some Chevy application but Tommy Hendrick spotted them and suggested I use them.



The lines at the housing. The Chevy specific fittings with 90 degree -6 from Hendricks. You can also see a rubber line zip tied to the frame. That is the power steering return line. I removed the power steering cooler entirely since this isn't a track car. I did however want to hide that line. This was my solution.



And the engine just about as it sits. I got a few more things done and started working on the radiator mounts.



I sprayed the tops of the 93 headlights and put them on as well, set the adjusters so they sit flush with the grill. I need some new grill holders though as 2 of mine aren't snapping for some reason.


I'm hoping to get more done this week and have the FMIC ready within a week or two. I realized when I put the oil pan on that the pick up is hitting the pan, so I am taking it back off and reshaping the pan a bit. Other than that and the broken bolt on the passenger A-arm, everything is really just a matter of getting it back in.

/brox

That socket is going to vibrate loose once the block heats up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

I am a bit worried about that yeah. I am pulling the pan back off to re torque the piston squirters and may give it another look. I may simply wire the socket roughly in place so that when it does drop out It will get caught instead of sitting on the side of the block. Ultimately, I have little choice in the matter.



/brox

Did it start????

I'll get some pictures up soon. I had a tooth extracted yesterday and an oral defense I had to work on over the weekend. As it sits, it in back together save for the transfer case and the COP ignition still needs to be wired in. HeyHey is working all day Saturday so the plan is to wrap it up that day when I'll have the whole day available.

/brox

Tonight was the night. The car was holding fluids with no apparent leaks. I put the transfer case back on and have only a few more things underneath to button up. I decided to try and start it but more on that later.

Here is the finished product. Five months of very lazy work has got me this...



I just finished the COP ignition the other day. We had a template at the shop I used and it fit nicely.



Tried to keep everything as tucked away and clean as possible. Here you can see my injector wire solution I think.



The prominent thing here is the temporary throttle body pipe. We made this real quick just so I could get the NT TB installed. Eventually, it will be rebuilt with hard pipes throughout and a custom FMIC. Right now it has the....



Factory Evo 8 core off my Evo. The EVO has a custom FMIC so I used this for the GVR4. It has a custom inlet welded on which you might be able to see in a few other pictures. I sprayed the tops of the 93 headlights and cleaned them up as well.



Eventually, I'll cut a plate for this top section which is now open. I also have another radiator support to make.

So back to the starting. It turns over, but won't start. I think it is fuel related even though I have 40PSI at the regulator. I don't think the injectors are firing for some reason which I cannot figure out. I have spark, at least at cylinder 1, Fuel pressure for sure. The battery is low on juice but it turns. I am going to be working on it tomorrow during the day to troubleshoot the issues. All I know is, it turns over, and it isn't leaking anything. Considering the number of new lines, both fuel and oil I have installed, removing the oil pan twice, and the various assorted things I have done, I am pleased. Not satisfied, but happy I don't have gass all over the floor.

/brox

Like those camber plates /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Hope things go well. I have to say, its been really nice to see thorough and consistent build updates from you. You say it's been lazy, but the product you've put out is top notch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

It just fired for the first time tonight after much trouble shooting. Thanks to Terry, whoever you are, for sticking with me and throwing suggestions at me. I am headed back out into the garage to put the subframes back on and recheck fluids. I have just a few things to button up before I go out on the break in runs. I have a slew of pictures I have not yet posted and will get them up soon.

/brox

Damn. I'm still coming over tomorrow lol

please do. I need a hand bleeding the clutch and I am none to confident about the bleed on the brakes.

I did get it to idle for a bit tonight but it sounds like there is either an intake leak or something else open. It is not smoking at all however and with only a few minutes idle time the lifter tick is almost gone. I did forget to tighten the oil feed line at the head and dumped about a quart of oil on the floor. Thus far, that is my only major problem, which I consider relatively minor.

I do need an extra pair of eyes in the garage so just call before you stop by. HeyHey will most likely be sleeping since she is on call tonight so we will have to play the quiet game.

/brox

Nothing to report recently. There are a few big things happening this week and next. First the car runs and can move under its own power, so it get's it's first alignment in many years. Second, I have next to me a 03 Evo 8 ECU with the ECU plugs, so next week I am soldering in the Evo 8 ECU. Third, it has new shoes. Evo 9 10 spoke rims. They need to be bead blasted but these also allow the 3000GT front brakes to go on. After that's finished, it will be off to the shop for the Intercooler.

More to come shortly.

/brox

This is a great build you have going on. Hope to fully restore mine soon.

What type of Hyundai did you get these parts from? I dig the TB, mine is on the outs, and I think a new one would help.

I think it was an Elantra, maybe 94-95. I can't be entirely sure. Once the Evo ECU goes in next week I am eliminating the FIAV and ISC. Hopes are to have it "inspected" and registered next week as well then get it to the shop for the FMIC.

Since I have the time and a 6 ton shop press, I am replacing both the front wheel bearings. The driver side bearing is so bad it started to smoke on the way back from the gas station. They will be in tomorrow and I should have them complete by Tuesday. Once the break in is complete and the ECU is in I am switching to a much larger turbo and FIC 1050's.

I'll get some finished pictures, video and final specs a bit later.

Thanks to everyone who has enjoyed the posts. I have worked very hard on this car over the last 5-6 months and I hope some can use things I have done to help them with their own projects. If anyone has any questions at all about anything I did I am always glad to respond with advice or help.

/brox

Sweet, everything is really detailed its great!

I just ordered what may be the most important thing in the car.

click

I'll be doing another update here in just a bit. Now off to order the brake brackets.


/brox

^^Yeah, you def need some place to put your spare change.

I already did the dual coin slot mod t the center switch panel. My problem is, I have a soda with me almost 100% of the day, always a can and always a Vault Zero. No drink holders is not going to work for me. I'm gonna have to do the drink holder mod to get the bastards to stay in there though.

/brox