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Fun with factory switches


kschwab
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424456 posted 01/01/07 09:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Went to the junkyard yesterday, and picked up several of those "Sport/Economy" switches from some automatic galants. I wanted factory looking switches for switching from low/high boost and turning off/on my water-alcohol injection.

I used plain old mspaint, the "Arial Narrow" font looks pretty close to what Mitsu uses on switches and gauges. I used 24 points for the horizontal words, 16 points for the vertical ones. Printed out scaled to 50% on regular paper, then took the switches apart and glued the paper in. It will probably fade over time, but I'll deal with that later.

The switch panel itself is dirty, but I thought it came out pretty good...






Edited by kschwab (01/01/07 09:17 AM)

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V8EATER
still thinking pink


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424457 posted 01/01/07 09:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That looks great! I've been wanting to do something like that for some time, just never got around to it.



1992 Audi UrS4

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic
475/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424459 posted 01/01/07 09:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      



92 GVR4 0475/1000
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boostx
On The Wrong Side.
23/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424463 posted 01/01/07 09:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
nice



Love the F Letter
Four wheel steering
Four doors
Four cylinders
Force induced
><((((º>

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IncorpoRatedX
I'm an idiot...
501/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424482 posted 01/01/07 12:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm impressed.



-Joshua Adventure Driven Design
Resto-mod squad.
1979 4G54 Galant Sigma Wagon (air con)
1984 Turbo Diesel Mighty Max 4WD
1991 Galant VR4

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turboflanagan
I would give myself something respectable.
478/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424507 posted 01/01/07 01:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wonder if laminating them would help with the fading?



Not quite 1400whp.

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kschwab
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424508 posted 01/01/07 02:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
To do it right, I should probably print them on photo paper and use some "fixer" spray with UV blocker. I'll see how long they look good and re-do them right if it's an issue.

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sag1441
ohi2u purge control valve


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424525 posted 01/01/07 03:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
dang thats cool

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moonvan
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424543 posted 01/01/07 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i have one wired up in my car too. it turns the fans on all the time

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dsm_drew
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424565 posted 01/01/07 06:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great. I've been planning to use one of those auto trans switches in my Talon for that same purpose and was wondering how difficult it might be to open the switch and put a different label in.

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kschwab
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424567 posted 01/01/07 06:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:


Looks great. I've been planning to use one of those auto trans switches in my Talon for that same purpose and was wondering how difficult it might be to open the switch and put a different label in.





I destroyed one to figure out how they work. Pry up on the bottom surface while pulling out the piece with the wires soldered on it. Helps if you warm it up a little first so the plastic isn't as brittle. Once that piece is out, it's easy to figure out the rest.

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92whitegsx
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424592 posted 01/01/07 08:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
could you shed a little light on how you plan to wire the switches.ive wanted to adjust boost with the factory switch but never figured out how the wiring could work.

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icurunnin
GVR4 Pimpin
000/0000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424594 posted 01/01/07 08:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
man you stole my idea. I already have the switches and am fixing to buy the control solenoid to go from wastegate (7psi) to boost controller (15-16psi). Looks good!



WTH are you looking at??

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kschwab
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424597 posted 01/01/07 08:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

could you shed a little light on how you plan to wire the switches.ive wanted to adjust boost with the factory switch but never figured out how the wiring could work.



Ahh. Well, I don't have the dual-stage boost controller yet. As for the alky injection, it's currently just a switch that grounds a relay. I was just going to use my ohmmeter to find two poles that are open with the switch off, and closed with the switch on.

Anyhow, that's next weekend's project. I'll post up the pinouts then. Looks like there's an LED in the switches.

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic
475/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424613 posted 01/01/07 10:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

could you shed a little light on how you plan to wire the switches.ive wanted to adjust boost with the factory switch but never figured out how the wiring could work.





I built one years ago using the factory mitsubishi solenoids.
For this you need two solenoids and a few feet of vacuum hose, two switches, t fittings and vacuum line resrictors.. I always gangster the stuff from the junkyard that way it looks factory.

First you need to hook a vacuum line from the pressure port on the factory turbo elbow and or the one over next to the factory bov or both and t them together this will give an average of the pressure pre and post intercooler. Not that big of a deal which you use.
Second hook a line to the wastegate accuator.


Now deside where to mount the solenoids. I file out some slots and mounted them in the factory air brather box behind the pass headlight. Nice and cool there. Now for wires.

You'll need two wires from the battery (12 volt) and two wires from the factory econ switches One will be for the first stage and one will be the second. Simply run a wire to the e brake bracket in the console to the switch for ground then out of the switch to the solenoids. One side of the solenoid has the hot wire and the other will be grounded when the button is pushed.

Now for the hook up of the solenoids. You'll need the ones that are normally closed. You will t them into the line that goes from the pressure referance then on to the wastegate accuator. When the first button is depressed it opens a one of the solenoids which creates a leak. Same with the second. You can find the mitsubishi solenoids on all types of japenese cars some flow more than others. Mine did something like 8 pounds with both off then the first stage went 15 then the second went 20 I think but I found that I left them on all the time. It worked ok but I always wanted to put a check ball with spring in the vent port on the solenoid so it would build boost quicker then release. The resrictors are used if its venting to much. Its really trial and error to get it to work where you want. You can use presurized air and a regulator with a gauge for testing but without air flowing through the turbo and pressing against the flapper valve its a lossing battle.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
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Exceeds Mechanical Limits
"Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker

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GVR4Doug
Eine 4-Jahre-Tour


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424619 posted 01/01/07 10:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That looks great!

BTW: What alky kit are you running? I was looking into them and trying to research. I havent found a lot out there yet... any info would be great!

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iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424741 posted 01/02/07 10:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I need one of those switches. Anybody got an extra?



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

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chris
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424742 posted 01/02/07 11:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

That looks great!

BTW: What alky kit are you running? I was looking into them and trying to research. I havent found a lot out there yet... any info would be great!




The snow performance kit is a sick meth injection.. decent price, and has some cool addons for the kits, IE adjustable presure sensor and fluid level indacators. Alot of kits come with crapy pumps and you dont want that failing under boost. They even have b00st juice that even raises the HP... Best mix for these kits are the washer fuild from walmart.. my friend had a case in his trunk at all times on his 22psi 8v SC'd vw.

http://www.snowperformance.net/



Edited by chris (01/02/07 11:43 AM)

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kschwab
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424747 posted 01/02/07 11:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

That looks great!

BTW: What alky kit are you running? I was looking into them and trying to research. I havent found a lot out there yet... any info would be great!




It came with the car, so I don't know where the original owner bought it. PM pisces if that's important to you.

It's a Shur-Flo pump, with soleniods to activitate it, uses the windshield washer reservior. I've replaced the hoses once, and put in a new nozzle. No troubles otherwise, and I can run 30psi with no knock ( FP Green, Big FMIC, some other mods ).

This page looks very similar to what's on my car.

This web page also looks similar to what's on the car, except he's using NOS nozzles.

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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
Too Clean
1881/2000
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424762 posted 01/02/07 12:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

I need one of those switches. Anybody got an extra?




I think I do. I'll check when I get home.

How do the switches look with the lights on?



-Jeff
1881/2000
50/1000


Edited by jepherz (01/02/07 12:33 PM)

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icurunnin
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000/0000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424782 posted 01/02/07 01:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Quote:

Anyhow, that's next weekend's project. I'll post up the pinouts then. Looks like there's an LED in the switches.



They do have a green light that looks like a diode. Both of mine are out. If you want a nice one way switch look for the steering switch on the GS. It just has a basic on and off while the a/t switch can be between two different sources that need power. I need new lights in both switches but scared to see what the dealer would ask for them.



WTH are you looking at??

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Happy Birthday DR1665
Kill him in the face with Wilson Phillips


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424820 posted 01/02/07 03:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's very cool. :thumbsup



Brian | 98 Pajero | Gearbox Magazine

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 424848 posted 01/02/07 04:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
WOW! So simple but very cool. It's amazing how after all these years you guys can still come up with fresh ideas that still retain factory finish

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kschwab
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 428053 posted 01/09/07 07:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was supposed to update this with a diagram for the switch, but...

Anyhow, I went to buy a dual stage boost controller, then get to wiring that and the w/a injection up.

Anyhow, I was disgusted with the prices. $180-$200 for either a TurboXS or Turbosmart boost controller. That's just nuts.

So, I'm now pausing to build my own hi-low boost controller. Searched around for some ideas, and ordered the following:

Boost solenoid from a Cyclone/Typhoon: $22 shipped
Cheapie "voodoo" MBC from ebay : $17 shipped
Bud Aluminum Project Box 2"x2"x5" : $ 9 shipped
===================================================
$48

Add in stuff I already have, like some vacuum hose, the switch this thread is about, my existing MBC, wire, vaccuum tees, and I should be ready to go.

I went with the Cyclone solenoid because it's a 3-port device that switches between A-B and A-C, but doesn't allow flow between B-C.
Also, it defaults to A-B when not powered, so it won't create problems if it doesn't have power.

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belize1334
well bread and nobly conceived
1334/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 428132 posted 01/09/07 10:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
For wiring multistage boost control:

Why don't you just put the stock bcs and an mbc in parallel with a solenoid to mask the signal from the bcs. With the switch off (solenoid open) the signal will go to the waste-gate actuator as soon as it reaches stock boost level (assuming you're not using an ems). If you throw the button it'll mask the signal from the bcs and boost will build until the mbc passes the signal onto the waste-gate actuator. It's a simple two stage setup...for more stages you could have multiple mbcs and all but the one with the highest boost level would need a solenoid between it and the waste-gate actuator.

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