U-Joint using T-Case recall

[mooserage]

So I'm trying to replace the rear U joint on the driveshaft. I was told by a number of people, including the guy I spoke with at JNZ, that its cheaper to order a T-case recall kit as it comes with a new U-joint spider and caps at half the cost of just the U-joint. But here is where I'm running into trouble: the kit comes partially assembled with 2 caps holding the spider to the new t-case yolk and two caps just in a bag. So it makes sense to just take the two caps off the assembly, remove the spider and replace it and the 4 caps on the driveshaft. But how do you remove the caps from the assembly without using some kind of pliers to get the first one out? this will, inevitably, scar up the side of the metal cap.

So, my question is, does this matter? as long as the circlips are in place and plenty of grease in the caps will the side of the cap being scarred make a difference? Or, do I need to order another kit for two fresh caps, and just harvest one of the spiders? (thus also making it the same cost as the original kit...)

I hope I've worded that clearly enough, anyone with experience will be much appreciated, Thanks!

 

[4wheelsqueal]

I got a new u-joint at o'reilly's last week for my driveshaft. Have them look it up under a 1g eagle talon awd. Same as a vr4.

 

[mooserage]

Wow, thats interesting, only the Eagle talon will show that part, not an eclipse or galant. I may just use the two caps from that kit and the mitsu spider, as I've seen a few people with Napa/O'Rielly's break the spiders. Thanks for the tip.

I'm still curious to know how others have done this with the mitsu recall kit, though, as I know others have done it.

 

[4wheelsqueal]

I've removed just the u-joint from the yoke by placing a block of wood under the yoke, using a block of plastic (which I sourced from work), turned the spider out so I could put the plastic of the arm of the spider and, with the plastic block and hammer, hit the spider down into the cap. When the cap was level with the outside of the carrier, turned the yoke over and knocked the other side out. May have to turn it over and work both sides a few times to get the caps completely out. Have to be careful not to hit too hard or the caps and needle bearings go flying. As far as the O'reilly joints failing, I have mitsu ones in 555/2k and an O'reilly one in 713/1k so I'll test both and see how they both hold up. The O'reilly one had a bit beefier spider center section than the mitsu one but who knows.

 

[grocery_getter]

Remove all the circlips. Take a few different sizes of socket, set one up on top of the cap assembly, set the other bigger one on the other side of that first set on the outer steel "ear". Use a third hand or a friend to set up a C clamp and put the clamp's pressure on teh small one. Push the whole assembly sideways till the cap on the other side moves out and into the bigger socket. You can get the cap stick out by about 1/4" this way if I remember right. Finish the rest of the way with channel lock pliers. Grab the top of the sticking out cap and rotate back and forth while pulling it outward. Do the same technique but opposite to put it all back together. Do this all the time. Not too bad. Dont pack too much grease into the cap on reassembly. It makes it hard to push the cap down all the way to put the circlip all the way into the groove. VERY important: Make sure the circlips go back 100% into their grooves. They supply a few different set of circlips of diff. thickness with the kit.

You do not need to apply too much pressure with the channel lock pliers. Just enough to grab the cap.

Quoting mooserage:
So I'm trying to replace the rear U joint on the driveshaft. I was told by a number of people, including the guy I spoke with at JNZ, that its cheaper to order a T-case recall kit as it comes with a new U-joint spider and caps at half the cost of just the U-joint. But here is where I'm running into trouble: the kit comes partially assembled with 2 caps holding the spider to the new t-case yolk and two caps just in a bag. So it makes sense to just take the two caps off the assembly, remove the spider and replace it and the 4 caps on the driveshaft. But how do you remove the caps from the assembly without using some kind of pliers to get the first one out? this will, inevitably, scar up the side of the metal cap.

So, my question is, does this matter? as long as the circlips are in place and plenty of grease in the caps will the side of the cap being scarred make a difference? Or, do I need to order another kit for two fresh caps, and just harvest one of the spiders? (thus also making it the same cost as the original kit...)

I hope I've worded that clearly enough, anyone with experience will be much appreciated, Thanks!

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
I got a new u-joint at o'reilly's last week for my driveshaft. Have them look it up under a 1g eagle talon awd





Don't use after market u-joints. That shatter like glass.