turbo fun

[yeti]

Quoting Street Surgeon:
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh, look at that manual I sent you hoss...





I actually looked at this page for the banjo bolt up top torque specs,(DIDNT LOOK AT THE BOTTOM) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif


I ported the dick out of the 7cm hotside, and should have a mitsu 7cm hotside on the way, just gotta pay(how much for that hotside?>)

Quoting Noobsauce:
I have linked yeti the FSM many times. It's just laziness plain and simple. Again yeti you have proven to everyone that you are still not willing to learn for yourself and expect others to tell you what you need to do.


....( not even gonna reply, dont wanna argue)

I do apologize about the FSM but i thought i knew all the damn pieces, there were no crush washers on there the first time, ive been putting rtv on the threads since i got the car( last time i was sealing i said to my self there has to be a better way of sealing these bolts) I honestly would not of thought to look into the fsm, not because im lazy just would not of thought there was crush washers there.

and banjo bolt is sealed, it was either the diff banjo bolt, diff oil feed pipe, or the diff crush washers..(teflon paste does nothing i hear /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

For everybody that has given me advice i am very appreciative..sorry for being such a tard

 

[Barnes]

"Always... no, no... never... forget to check your references." - Dr. Meredith from the movie Real Genius

No matter how much I work on these cars, I check my references. You can always screw up and forget something. Always have your FSM ready no matter what you are working on. ESPECIALLY critical stuff like turbo parts.

For turbo banjo bolt type connections the seal is 100% reliant on the copper crush washers. These are tremendously reliable. However you have to make SURE that your mating surfaces are smooth. The easiest way to do this of course is to get a new line. Optionally you can make sure your old line's mating surfaces are clean and smooth. Also make sure your turbo's mating surfaces are clean and smooth. Often times both can get gunked up or corroded after years of use. ALWAYS use new crush washers!! (Unless you are in a pinch you can generally reuse them, or you can even anneal them with a torch. However IMO this is for emergencies only.) I've NEVER had a banjo connection leak in all my years working on my cars following these guidelines.

 

[yeti]

GREAT QUOTE i will follow..


Ive never had a leak there before, i broke free the banjo bolt one day for some stupid reason and it never got it to seal back up till yesterday, probably the feed line was tweaked..

will be getting crush washers for the return line

 

[mitsuturbo]

You've come a long way, actually.

I'm glad to see you still asking legitimate questions, no matter how stupid they might seem to some of us. At least you're not just bumbling your way into it completely, and screwing up more than you're fixing.

If you don't have crush washers for the oil pan bolts on the return line, you can do what i did. I had everything together, put oil in the engine, and after it sitting a day, i see it had a little leak from bottom of the return line. I had to drain the oil, clean that area, and re-do things. I just wound up putting some ultra grey around the bolts, on the threads near the head of them, and it sealed right up.
Of course, this will not work if there is any oil on the surfaces, as the permatex just won't bond/seal properly. I was also careful not to put permatex near the end of the bolt, so as to keep it out of the oil pan. It doesn't leak now, but it was kind of a headache and pain in the ass to make it right. If it leaks again around the bolts, i've since found some crush washers to put there. I don't think it's going to give me any problems for a very long time, though.

 

[yeti]

i appreciate the support, you obviously remember my first threads..positive vibes go a far way i do appreciate it..

i used rtv there yesterday but im guessing i didn't let it drain long enough and there was probably a bit of oil there i'l try crush washers next time i get underneath it..

 

[jnava]

You can afford this...please buy click

 

[yeti]

that doesent have the crush washers for the oil return line..

smallest that kit has is the 10mm, im guessing i either need a 6mm or a 4mm crush washers, ive been to 3 parts store and none of them have it

 

[yeti]

click

these are the ones i need, just ordered 40 of them..

does anybody see a checkout on slowboy racing i cant find it

 

[mitsuturbo]

Should have bought from someone else. Slowboy shouldn't see a penny from anyone on this forum, or any other, for that matter.

 

[yeti]

^ GOOD THING I HAVENT ORDERED YET, should i go to jnz instead there are only 10c more per washer (35, opposed to 25c from slowboy)

is slowboy just bad buisness?

just checked jnz they want 39cents per PAIR so its actually cheaper then slowboy

 

[mitsuturbo]

click

You decide...

 

[yeti]

i ordered from jnz instead, thats redonkulous about slowboy glad i didnt order from them