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New leak - intermediate shaft seal? Pics inside.

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
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Tempe, AZ
Wow you just proofed the pic I posted in your other thread ( why the green inner CV joint was still attached to the mid-shaft ). Usually it comes right off with a little pry effort. It has a spring c-clip just like the PS inner CV joint ( or just about any other inner CV assembly ).

I like Romanova's suggestion, in moderation of course.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

turbowop

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I must have missed the part that explains why you're trying to separate the axle from the intermediate shaft? Are you replacing the axle with a new one? I usually have to hammer them apart with a BFH.

And yeah, just undoing the axle nut won't allow you to remove it. You gotta separate the knuckle from the strut, but now you know that having actually seen for yourself.
 

ktmrider

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Quoting turbowop:
I must have missed the part that explains why you're trying to separate the axle from the intermediate shaft? Are you replacing the axle with a new one? I usually have to hammer them apart with a BFH

Originally I suggested separating at the intermediate shaft to avoid potential damage to the seal.

However once the TC was out he found the leak. FWIW I'd still try to separate them, easier to mount mid-shaft w/o the axle flopping at the end.
 

turbowop

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I find that's its usually such a pain in the ass to separate them and put them back together that I don't do it unless replacing the axle. And that's on cars that aren't rusty. I've never had an issue getting the whole assembly back into place or torn a seal in the process. Just gotta be careful when sliding the splines into the trans.
 

ktmrider

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^^ Tru dat, I'm spoiled in the SW as every axle I've done has popped out of the mid-shaft easily.
 

blacksheep

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Quoting ktmrider:
Quoting turbowop:
I must have missed the part that explains why you're trying to separate the axle from the intermediate shaft? Are you replacing the axle with a new one? I usually have to hammer them apart with a BFH

Originally I suggested separating at the intermediate shaft to avoid potential damage to the seal.

However once the TC was out he found the leak. FWIW I'd still try to separate them, easier to mount mid-shaft w/o the axle flopping at the end.



This was why and the other reason is the fact is it long, awkward and hard to pull out....yeah, that's what she said! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Also, I would like to clean both up. That bearing on the jackshaft seems all freaking tore up/worn out and both the axles need some serious cleaning. Caked on with oil residue etc.
 

blacksheep

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Quoting Romanova:
KC,
Ply yourself with liquor and the job will go a lot easier. Take your time and be patient... you'll get it.



I don't drink or smoke anymore. Wish I did sometimes...When I worked on the Evo, cig breaks helped me out and I didnt get as frustrated.

I am afraid I am going to start an epic build like you, man! I want to keep it all stock tho. Like BobDole
 

turbowop

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I don't think I've ever seen an intermediate shaft bearing that wasn't wobbly or felt like garbage. Every single one though, once on the car, drove just fine.
 

blacksheep

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Such much I don't know about that shaft. If they need replaced - do we get one from dealer or rock auto? Can that bearing be replaced etc?
 

turbowop

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I dunno, as I've never replaced one. That's why I mentioned that no matter how bad I think it "feels", they've always been fine and I've never worried about it.
 

vr4play

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Feb 7, 2008
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397
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
The way I take them apart is to take the inner cv boot off and pull the axle out of the joint. You can then use a large punch in the center to push the shaft off of the joint. I only take them apart when I replace them as there is a small metal cover that gets jacked during the process.
 

blacksheep

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I may just simple green, hand scrub and pressure wash the outside with ends covered (they already taped up with wrap around it to prevent damage) and call it good then.
 

blacksheep

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Ok, update on this: Pulled seal out with my harbor freight seal puller, worked pretty well without no marks or damage to inside of transmission etc.

I cleaned up the mounting area and all arpound with brake kleen and old toothbrush...

I then did what Wop said and tapped the new seal in with my race bearing set adapter and rubber mallet.

Final result - Does this look right?

 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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Harwinton, CT
seal looks fine to me, KC. as long as the lip is flush against the transmission all the way around, which i can't tell in the picture, you should be fine.

put some RTV on the oil pan and get the damn thing back on already. you've got to break the habit of overthinking everything. just remember, everything's going to be fine. make sure you've got the short bolts on the timing belt side of the pan. it aint no thang dude you'll get through it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

blacksheep

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Phil - You are so right. I have been a systems analyst for many years, so I do overthink to try and address any issues /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Plus, I dont want to have to take it apart. Yep, the seal is flush all around, I need to check the top of transmission, but all other sides are good.

Thanks for the positive attitude. I am like an abused dog with these cars, so freakin scared of everything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,972
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Yakima, WA
Quoting blacksheep:
Ok, update on this: Pulled seal out with my harbor freight seal puller, worked pretty well without no marks or damage to inside of transmission etc.

I cleaned up the mounting area and all arpound with brake kleen and old toothbrush...

I then did what Wop said and tapped the new seal in with my race bearing set adapter and rubber mallet.

Final result - Does this look right?





There is a small hole in the outer dust seal. The whole seal should be installed with that hole at 6 o'clock. I can't tell if you did that or not...
 
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