Engine Building Tech...

[charmcity]

Hay guys I have recently been buiding the motor to 357/1000. This is my first engine build and I never knew how much mesurement went into just assembling a long block. Its not an issue I have a great bunch of pro's working with me on the project. My question is how many of you guys actually put your own motors together, and do all the plasti-guageing, ring shimming/fileing, pre-assembly and all the other things that go into putting an engine together the right way , or who just puts the stuff together out of the package and hopes for the best, just want to know the results.


Thanks.

 

The 2.3 in my car is the first engine I put together myself. 2500mi and its still holding. I honed the cylinders myself to get the piston to wall clearance I was after. Filed the rings and assembled the whole engine in my living room. All other machining was done at shop, balancing, etc. There's really nothing to it. Just take your time and measure everything again and again.

 

[CarRacer]

I assembled my motor. It was a stock rebuild though, so it wasn't very complicated. I had the head and block machined and then did the rest myself. I didn't have to go oversize on the cylinder though, so it was really easy. I did use a feeler gauge to double check everything but I didn't have to file any rings. I used two torque wrenches though. One 3/8" drive and one 1/2" drive. That was important as I've heard that some wrenches are a little janky at the upper and lower limit of their ranges. Having both wrenches helped get the torque ratings in the middle ranges for both.

Basically take your time and double check everything and you'll be fine.

 

[prove_it]

I built my engine this last winter. Wiseco/eagle combo with arp studs on a 30K mile engine. It's really easy, just take your time. Make sure every little piece is checked twice and torque ALL bolts. Last thing you want is one little bolt backing out. I used lock tite everywhere I could too. Also make sure you clean the block and everything very well. I use dawn dish soap and a soft bristle brush then rinse and repeat, then use brake clean(about a case) to remove any residue. Make sure you blast out the oiling passages in the crankshaft, use air and brake cleaner. Let's see what else, sometimes when you plastigage a rod bearing and the spec isn't the best try swapping to a different cylinder, sometimes you can get better clearances. Get some 3m blue masking tape, it comes off clean after weeks and works great to protect surfaces. Really it all comes down to being patient and focused. I spent about 30 on mine, took 4 hours to file the rings, and about 8 hours cleaning everything. The more anal you are the better the engine. We are here to help so if you run into something, post it and wait. That's about all I got for tips anyway. Good luck and hope you the best, oh and don't use top line gaskets. I picked up a complete fel-pro gasket set from checker auto for 200 cash. It had everything and then some.
Once you get down to measuring your clearances post all your specs.

 

I built my 2.4 in my basement over the course of about 2 months. Really took my time and tried to be as anal as possible with respect to torque and clearance specs.

I think it paid off, 10k miles later still running like a top. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[toybreaker]

Quote:
I used lock tite everywhere I could too.



The torque values for everything inside the engine are for clean, lubricated bolts.

This means dip 'em in oil, threads and head and then torque to the specified value. A shot glass works very well for this. Just fill it ~3/4 full with your favorite flavor engine oil, dip 'em, and the threads and under the head will be lubricated, and you will achieve the correct tension on the hardware.

One exception, (at least for me) is the oil pump pick-up tube. I usually hit those with blue loc-tite.

Another exception is aftermarket rod/main/head bolts. Use the hardware manufacturer specified lubricant (usually a moly grease), as well as the hardware manufacturers torque value.

The torque values for everything outside the motor are for clean, dry bolts.

Many people, myself included use loc-tite on most of the external hardware, like motor mount brackets and the like.

You do need to understand that the loc-tite has "some" lubricating qualities, and if you torque to the higher end of the torque range usling loc-tite, you *may* pull some threads out (especially on the head, because it's aluminim).

There is also more than one grade of loc-tite.

yes, virginia, there is more than just the red .....crazy.... I know... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

The blue, medium strength is more than enough for most apps, and the red should only be used where it's necessary. (flywheel bolts come to mind)

The purple, low strength is the shizznit for sealing copper washers, like at the turbo oil feed banjo fitting on the head.

Quoting CarRacer:
I used two torque wrenches though. One 3/8" drive and one 1/2" drive. That was important as I've heard that some wrenches are a little janky at the upper and lower limit of their ranges. Having both wrenches helped get the torque ratings in the middle ranges for both.



Excellent advice, James! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Quoting Prove It:
took 4 hours to file the rings



It's a pain without the cool guy tool, but it can be done quite satisfactorly, if you're patient.
Always try and file from the outside in, to help miminmise any flaking the outside friction surface of any applied coatings like moly or chrome.

#1 rule, leave the beer in the fridge till the job is done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

It only took an hour for me to file my rings (and thats being anal). But I measured again and again and again. But it took me 8 HOURS to hone cylinders because I measured and measured and measured on honing.

 

[prove_it]

Good point on the loctite. It reminded clean that cleaning the bolts is just as important too. Also when you get your assembly lube make sure you get the right stuff, liquid is good if your starting the engine right away, paste is great if it's going to be sitting around a few weeks before it starts.
Don't worry about "priming" the oil system, it doesn't hurt but if it's assembled right and you used assembly lube, the engine will build oil pressure within 2 minutes after it starts.
IMO building an engine is one of the most fun and rewarding builds you can go through, not to mention the most stressful.

Also get a friend over and have them check everything over, it's easy to miss one little thing.

 

[charmcity]

Well thanks guys that is some outstanding advice. I finished fitting the top rings last night and next week Im going to see about puting the rods a pistons together. I have alot of great help with this build so im really enjoying it, Ill keep yawll posted. Thanks again.

 

[prove_it]

Make sure you keep the rings in the same hole, ie if you file one for #1 cylinder be sure to keep it in that hole.