Alternator Pulley Direction

[cheekychimp]

Does it matter which way you spin it?

It probably isn't feasible or worth it but after removing the ABS there is a nice fat piece of real estate on that side of the engine bay. I'm really seriously wondering if it would be worth the time and effort to fabricate a custom mount there to locate the alternator away from the downpipe. It's likely a self defeating exercise in that once relocated I am sure Sod's Law would dictate that the alternator live forever negating the advantages of having it mounted in a position that is easy to access. Even so the thought of being able to swap it out without removing the stock MAS, plumbing and radiator/fans is kind of exciting.

 

[mooserage]

HAHAHA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif, the everlasting AND easy to replace alternator, you speak of a Unicorn!

Seriously though, as I understand it the alternator doesn't care which way it spins and will still charge. Hopefully someone can confirm though.

This sounds like a great idea if you have eliminated power steering.

 

[rdomeck]

I'm pretty sure that spinning them backwards doesn't work. If you wanted to look at another option....Hondas spin backwards and you could adapt one of those! Just a thought.

 

[Specter]

^^As he said. You could find any alternator which spins backwards and make it work. So...DO IT DO IT DO IT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[jepherz]

Shouldn't matter, it's just simple electrical fields. I believe when you take an alternator to an AutoZone like store that has a bench tester, they all have to hook up and spin the same way, so that's proof right there if that's the case. I'm not sure how you'd make the necessary brackets to keep the alternator with the engine when the alternator is 8" hanging off of it though. If you ask me, that's not really fixing the problem you have either.

 

[cheekychimp]

No it won't fix my current issue, I want to address/solve that first but once it is done I do want to relocate away from the downpipe. I can't relocate to the rear of the block as I need A/C and this looks like the most feasible option. It would require extending the pulley shaft and supporting the end of that shaft in a bearing of some sort. My biggest issue with this right now is figuring out some sort of a tensioner.

 

[grocery_getter]

You would have to still mount the alternator to the engine so it can move together with it. Also consider the internal fan. I forgot if our alternator uses internal fan or not, some out there does. If it does, spinning a fan blade backward is wrong and will probably have a bad thermal consequences. Can't you just build a heatshield?

 

[cheekychimp]

Mmmm ... hadn't considered the movement issue, that limits things somewhat /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Yes I have considered heatshields, in fact someone is building them now and they are going to be ceramic coated. I was just hoping to treat the cause rather than the symptoms by moving the alternator away from that heat source.

Maybe it would be easier to move the downpipe?

 

[jepherz]

Yeah, that's what I meant about bracketry to keep the alt with the engine.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

Lots of hot rodders & I think nascar run em off the drive-shaft. You can honestly run one any where you can get a belt to it & gain some spin. How about a dummy pulley & a small jack-shaft with ujoints & a slip to take up movement.

 

[turbowop]

Running an alternator off the driveshaft probably wouldn't work out very well in stop and go traffic.

 

[cheekychimp]

Yeah on second thoughts, maybe not LOL. I don't think there is enough clearance to have it connected to the block in that area once you take movement into account. Maybe you could use solid motor mounts and mount the alternator to the chassis /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Didn't someone build an alternator heatshield out of a stainless cooking pot? I seem to remember it looked okay. The whole thing just mounted around the alternator and the guy that built it had one OEM bolt mounting it and another was close enough to allow it to have really good fitment with a tab welded on. I might investigate that further.