I need to run over to the local Pick N Pull on my lunch break in hopes of finding a cam angle sensor for my GVR4 that is stuck at work. I'll obviously check the 4G63 power cars, but which other cars/ engines should I check if I can't find any 4G63's? My understanding is that there are sensors...

I need to run over to the local Pick N Pull on my lunch break in hopes of finding a cam angle sensor for my GVR4 that is stuck at work. I'll obviously check the 4G63 power cars, but which other cars/ engines should I check if I can't find any 4G63's? My understanding is that there are sensors...

It was getting fuel and spark at first, but only briefly when I first turned the key. After a few tries to start, fuel (and I believe spark, but need to verify) went away, and the tach stopped working. I checked the T-belt, it was fine. The engine turns over normally. It did start and idle rough...

Okay, tried to start it a couple more times. Now it doesn't fire at all, and the tach stays at zero. Does that point to the CAS?

Help me out guys. My car fires right up when I turn the key, but dies immeditately. It climbs to 1000rpm and dies. Very similar to what happens when you pull the fuse to the fuel pump. It seems to be getting fuel, I even got a small back fire after a few tries to start it. I did try cranking...

I still have A/C. I also mounted a stock DSM oil cooler between the condenser and I/C. That should block a bit of airflow to the radiator, but it's probably offset by the lower oil temps. I've also noticed the brand of thermostat can make a difference, even if they claim the same temp. The one I...

I've got the same I/C mounted in the same location. I don't have any overheating issues, even on 110 degree days. I don't think you need to change the stock fan. The stock fan will outflow most of the aftermarket slim fans. At freeway speeds, the fans are pretty much just in the way. I wouldn't...

I'm curious about what they did with the suspension- take a close look at the top of the strut tower.

I think just about every other Mitsubishi looks better on Evo rims then the Evo itself. I think it's the way they fill the wheel wells.

I've used the factory jack points for jack stands on every unibody car I've worked on for over 20 years. They are a solid, stable place to rest the car. It also keeps the jack stands away from your work area. I believe I hold the official JSB record, my car spent has spent more time on those...

You don't need a wide band for basic tuning. You should have a least an EGT gauge, and preferably a logger. Keep in mind you may not be able to get the most out of your set up, but you can still make quite a bit of power over stock.

Don't forget to check the spark plug wires. I tried three used sets on mine until my new ones arrived. New wires did the trick.

How did the clutch disc fuse to the flywheel?

You just missed me, they kicked me out...click

Welcome. Having more then one project car is tough. The trick is to make sure only one is down at a given time. I own entirely too many jack stands. Fortunately, my GVR4 isn't sitting on any right now.

The other tool is for setting the pre tension and holding the pulley steady while you torque it. I have one, but haven't used it for years when a pin broke off. I found that using a pair of snap ring pliers is easier. I found that if I set the holes in the pulley in the 11 o'clock position...

It's hard to tell from the pics, but could you fit silicone 90's on the ends of the I/C to make the connections? That would make things a lot easier.

I like the idea, and can see the advantages. No need to modify the bumper. The airflow through the core is not blocked. The airflow should also have an easier time going through the I/C, A/C, and radiator cores. The gap with a normal install disrupts the airflow and gives escape routes. Lots of...

You are keeping the A/C, correct? I had intended on mounting my EVO I/C like that. The problem I ran into was that I couldn't fit the condenser fan on the back of the radiator. I figured even if I could find one that fit, the turbo would cook it.

Mine seems to get around 21-23mpg with a good mix of spirited and commute driving. I was getting just over 25 when breaking in a new clutch. My car needs a tune and is running pretty rich, I think I can do a lot better.

I forget, but I think the tri pod joint that moves in and out it is the inner joint on a three bolt axle. If so, you can use the axle itself like a slide hammer. Insert the splines into the diff, then pull back on the axle a bit to extend the inner joint. Then push it back together quickly, and...

You got that right. I had to pay a few bucks a year for the privilege of storing my own can in my own garage. If you fail to put a car into non op in CA, the cost to put it back on the road can be more then the car is worth.

When my car was down for years, it was registered as non-op. I wonder if that would have counted as registered?

Quote: Now that is beautiful! Thanks for the pics. For your BOV flange, did you hack it off of the stock pipe and weld it on to the new one?Thanks! I saved all my stock piping, and cut the flange off an extra dsm pipe instead. I actually used two. This was one of my first welding...

Here are some pics of my install. I chose to install the I/C without modifying the inlet or outlet. I also wanted to add an air oil cooler, and keep the A/C and fog lights. I used a 1G power steering cooler. I sectioned the bumper beam, cutting out a piece and re-welding it back together. My...

Added 739/1000...3 - mike 1101 - (Arizona) 14 - 4463 - (Chicago) 20 - jnr - (California) 36 - dsmer06 (Iowa) 46 - dc style - (Minnesota) 50 - jepherz - (Missouri) 56 - struc - (Wisconsin) 77 - gvr-4 - (North Carolina) 78 - chris - (Rhode Island) 107 - 06outlanderawd - (Pennsylvania) 136 -...

I used a GGSX housing on my GVR4 and it was a perfect fit. I found the housing in a GGSX in a wrecking yard. The weird thing was that it didn't have a flared hood like the stock GVR4 housing, it had a metal tube with a short piece of rubber line to the pump. It looked factory, not cut. I believe...

Check the cooling hoses too. It's best to change them all at once. Otherwise, you will keep replacing them one after another. I'd also drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.

I had a ball joint pop out of the control arm on the freeway. Not a fun experience. I haven't had a chance to inspect the arm yet, but I assume it's damaged. Is our arm only on the GVR4 and GGSX? The FWD arms are different, due to the swaybar mount, correct? I can use AWD DSM arms, but I have...

I pulled the tranny today. I haven't had the chance to tear into it yet, but it's definitly a bad bearing. I can hear and feel it while spinning the input shaft by hand. Any advice on what I can do to check my spare trannies before I install them? I think I'm going with my '92 23 spline DSM...

Thanks guys. I'll pull the tranny this weekend and let you know what I find. Where is a good place to get replacement parts to rebuild the transmission?Thank you,

I've developed a strange transmission problem. It started about a week ago when I would occasionally miss second gear. There was no grind, just no gear. After moving the shifter a bit and trying again, all was well. Over the course of the week it started becoming more frequent. This was strange...

I just did mine. I was suprised how much my local machine shops charged to press in the new bearings. I decided to spend the money on a press instead, and bought a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight. I figured that since I was doing the bushings and ball joints at the same time, the press would...

Quote: You mean 3rd gen right, from the FD RX7? The yellow Enkei?No, the 2nd gen, not too hard to find in a junkyard. They are silver, but they are also made by Enkei. There is also a 4 lug version from the early 2G RX7's, not sure what size that one is.

How about a 2nd gen RX7 aluminum spare? I've got one that I used to carry in my Talon. They are 16" rims that have spokes clearanced to fit the RX7's 4 piston calipers. I measured the one I have, and it has 14" of room at the smallest point near the spokes. I believe the center bore needs to be...

It also sounds like an axle to me, mine did the same with a broken axle. Follow brisvr4's advice, I bet an axle broke at the splines.

I had the same issue with my car recently. It drove great until boost hit, then it would hesitate and stumble, especially at high RPM. The problem ended up being the plug wires. I had already tried three sets that I had sitting around, before I ordered a new set of NGK's. The new wires did the...

Is the car outdoors or in a garage? If in a garage, be extra careful, probably not a bad idea to put out the pilot light on the water heater. Some recycling places will take old gas. While you have the tank drained, check the fuel filler hose for cracking.

Thanks. My kids are also 3 and 4. They love to "help" work on the car. They call the Galant the "race car," I hope they don't repeat that if I ever get pulled over.

I plan on going the DSM link route in the future. I'm rebuilding the engine in my daily driver, and was trying to make due with what I have for the GVR4 for now. I had no idea SAFC's were worth that much, I have an extra one. I'll also try closing the gaps on the plugs a bit. Thanks for the help.

Thanks guys. I backed the base timing down to 0*. At first, there was no difference. But I quickly figured out that the too much timing was causing me to add too much fuel. With the reduced timing, I was able to take out a quite a bit of fuel, and the car woke up. It now pulls strong and smooth...

The heat sheild isn't only to protect other components. It's also there to keep heat in the exhaust manifold. The more heat that stays in the manifold, the more energy there is to spool the turbo.

NGK BPR7ES, gapped at .028. I'll try backing off the timing, I know I'm getting way too much.

I'm having a hell of a time getting my GVR4 dialed in. I've been having an issure with part throttle knock. As soon as I build any boost at part throttle, the knock counts jump up. I can peg the knock counts at 43 with 2psi on the gauge, and about 30% throttle. I don't think it's phantom knock...

The manifold on the right is a stock part opened up for a different turbo or adapter. It looks just like the one I use with an adapter for my 10cm TD06-20G.

I love those wheels! Great job.

I believe the saying goes that a good engine can blow out a bad dipstick, and a bad engine can blow out a good dip stick.

I've always had good luck with the Centerforce DF clutches. They have a very light stock like pedal feel (much lighter then my stock Miata), yet can hold quite a lot of power. They also last a long time, and are easier on the drivetrain then other performance clutches. The downside is that the...

When they are real stuck like that, you need to do it the old fashioned way with a big cheater bar. I use a good 22mm socket, a good 24 inch long 1/2" extension, and a good 1/2" breaker bar. Support the extension with a jack or jack stand, and slip a 4 foot plus pipe over the handle of the...

I'll recheck everything. The good thing is that it is very easy to duplicate. I think I'll cause the problem so that the pedal sticks, but instead of freeing it, I'll check the throttle and see if it's stuck. If the cruise is the problem, I should be able to easily move the throttle by hand. If...