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Throttle open/closed switch thread size FIXED now knock problem


Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909327 posted 06/21/10 09:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I'm running a hyundai throttle body that is physically identical to the 1g non turbo TB except for the lack of a throttle open/closed switch. It utilizes a throttle plate adjustment screw in the same location as the switch is on our cars, however, the screw is much smaller diameter than the switch. There is plenty of "meat" there to drill it out to accept the switch, I just have no clue what the thread size is. Thanks for the help.


Edited by galant1517 (06/27/10 07:56 PM)

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belize1334
well bread and nobly conceived
1334/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909360 posted 06/21/10 11:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's either m12x1.25 or m10x1.25. I'm leaning toward m12 but I can't say for sure. If you have the switch just take it to ACE (or equivolent) and test it against their metric hardware.



Roger B. Scott
'91 Belize Green

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keydiver
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909410 posted 06/22/10 07:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Justin,
I just emailed you some links, because I would bet that your Hyundai has the same 4-wire TPS that a 2G DSM does, so the IPS is integrated into it already. The pinout of the TPS harness is:
Pin #1 - 5 volts
Pin #2 - TPS output to ECU
Pin #3 - IPS switch to ECU
Pin #4 - GROUND for both the TPS and IPS

The 2G TPS can be a little trickier to get calibrated:
click

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BoostedAWD91
Senior Member
815/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909467 posted 06/22/10 11:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The closed idle switch is a m10x.75



#815/2000- Lexus Pearl White


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belize1334
well bread and nobly conceived
1334/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909485 posted 06/22/10 12:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^ I stand corrected.

m10x0.75... wow... that's a REALLY fine thread pitch... doubt the local hard-ware store carries taps in that size.



Roger B. Scott
'91 Belize Green

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BoostedAWD91
Senior Member
815/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909503 posted 06/22/10 01:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have that size tap as I had to special order it due to the size. The few places that have them want $40 for it



#815/2000- Lexus Pearl White


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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909719 posted 06/23/10 12:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting keydiver:

Justin,
I just emailed you some links, because I would bet that your Hyundai has the same 4-wire TPS that a 2G DSM does, so the IPS is integrated into it already.

The 2G TPS can be a little trickier to get calibrated:




+1 on using the 2G TPS.

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beaner
Blew1 Guy Today


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 909734 posted 06/23/10 01:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How does the ECU use this sensor?

Posts: 1562 | From: b'ham, mi | Member Since: 06/22/05 | IP: (76.112.224.109) | Report this post to a Moderator

Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910077 posted 06/24/10 12:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting keydiver:

Justin,
I just emailed you some links, because I would bet that your Hyundai has the same 4-wire TPS that a 2G DSM does, so the IPS is integrated into it already. The pinout of the TPS harness is:
Pin #1 - 5 volts
Pin #2 - TPS output to ECU
Pin #3 - IPS switch to ECU
Pin #4 - GROUND for both the TPS and IPS

The 2G TPS can be a little trickier to get calibrated:
click




Thanks Jeff. It'll take me until this weekend to try it, I just work too much. I'll let everyone know if that's the case or not. .

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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910272 posted 06/24/10 06:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Beaner:

How does the ECU use this sensor?



It's primary purpose is to tell the ECU the throttle is closed. If you want to know what the ECU does with that information read the 1G DSM Technical Manual.


Edited by stevep (06/24/10 06:05 PM)

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beaner
Blew1 Guy Today


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910305 posted 06/24/10 08:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I only ask because it seems most people either ditch it or never fix the wire which always breaks off. Heck I've even seen it used to crack the TB and control the idle. :shame: I know I ran without one for a couple years until finally coming across the sensor on a spare TB. In all honesty I didn't notice a difference before or after.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910626 posted 06/25/10 07:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Does anyone know if the 1G/GVR4 harness is already wired correctly for the 2G TPS? Or will I have to wire the original throttle open/closed connector/wire to the #3 pin in the TPS connector? Also, I'm assuming that I should adjust the throttle stop screw in the same manner as the open/closed switch? Thanks again guys.

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keydiver
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910637 posted 06/25/10 08:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Its a totally different connector, so you will have to splice it in properly. The 1G TPS is only a 3-wire plug, with a separate wire to the IPS. If you already have the TPS wired in correctly, its just a matter of connecting the IPS wire to pin #3 of the 2G-style TPS.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910653 posted 06/25/10 09:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok, yeah. I finally got home and looked at the connector on my car and it is different. I'll have to go back to the junkyard and cut that connector off of that elantra, no big deal.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910898 posted 06/27/10 12:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I've opted to change TB's again. I went back to the junkyard to get that other TPS connector and there was a NT 1G there that wasn't there last time. So I took that TB. I figured that would probably make life easier in the long run anyway. Thanks for everybody's help.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 910967 posted 06/27/10 07:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've got that NT 1G throttle body with ISC/FIAV block off in now. I've adjusted the TPS to 10%. The base timing was reset to 5 degrees. The throttle open/closed switch is hooked up and functioning properly. My low fuel trims immediately went from 138% to 121%, which is enough right there to show that the open/closed switch is needed. I am seeing tons of knock though and I'm only running 13-14 lbs. of boost. My knock sensor is only a couple years old and not leaking out of the back. It pretty much knocks all of the time, every pull. Before I reset all of the sensors, I'd see knock levels at 43(which means it's maxed right?), and now they are hitting between 25-30 counts. Any ideas? This is really the first time I've ever really cared about knock(I know- I'm stupid) but now that I've realized the timing gets pulled back and I lose power, it seems more important.

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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 911043 posted 06/28/10 08:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Do you have a logger to look at the O2 volts? Knock is either caused by too lean an AFR or too much timing advance for the octane you are running. Are you sure the FPR is getting a good boost reference signal, so fuel pressure rises 1:1 with boost?

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 911182 posted 06/28/10 07:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The O2 voltage swings nicely from .01v to 1.01v at idle and during normal driving situations. The best pump gas in my immediate area(5000+ feet elevation) is 91 octane, and I just set the base timing at 5 degrees. My fuel trims are 121%, 108%, and 113% from low to high. That means that the ecu is compensating by adding fuel, correct? I could raise the pressure a couple of pounds and do some logging that way. FYI, I have not re installed my chipped ecu or bigger injectors yet, still running as stock as possible until I can be sure I'm running smooth now.

I have to say, I never realized how poorly my car was performing until I got the logger. It has really opened my eyes.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 911208 posted 06/28/10 09:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think I may have phantom knock. At one point I registered 17 counts of knock at only 1250 rpm, 23.4% tps input, and 156 Hz of airflow. I had just increased fuel pressure to 39 psi at idle, and I am going to turn it up more now, I think I'll try 43 psi next.

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Justin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 911217 posted 06/28/10 09:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
And it's weird because at 6150 rpm with 99.6% tps input, o2v at .83v the injector duty cycle is only 61.7% and 12 ms pulse width, and 500 rpm earlier both were higher.

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keydiver
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 911488 posted 06/29/10 08:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
2psi extra fuel pressure should be enough to bring the HIGH TRIM down close to 100.
As you pass your engine's power peak, the Volumetric Efficiency starts to drop, which means that the amount of air and fuel necessary at that rpm will actually be less than at the power peak.

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