In my defense, I offered it up for others to fix before I scrapped it. and the rust wasn't the issue I had with it.

Who brought this back? :-p Anyway, I'm ATTEMPTING to put the white car back together... the rust is REALLY bad. I'll have to get some pictures if it ever stops raining here (pushed it out of the garage to strip paint and power wash). My roommate was suggesting I just go ahead and cut those corners out of the other shell, and try to weld the back in place on the white car. I was considering just getting a chunk of metal, tacking it in place, and drilling the holes for the fender to go back on. It's really pretty bad. I can't bring myself to buy ANOTHER clean shell though and try to give these to someone with the knowledge to fix. Anyway... gotta go PT. Later.

Since the fenders are off now you can see how bad it really is. I'm afraid to see what's under the side skirts. Any of the black areas you see have already been treated with some Rustoleum Rust converter. I used it in the bay; it's supposed to take 3 days to cure before I spray paint, which sucks, because I have a feeling I'll be dealing with some flash rusting in some bare metal spots.I guess if that happens I'll just sand it, wipe it, and go at it with the paint. LOTS of work ahead of me still.

I'll eventually start a build thread.

Actually Kenneth, I have done that repair before on the rockers of a probe just to make it look better to sell, well the foam is a moisture wick. It will draw it in and hold it against the metal and make it worse. Obviously I didn't care on the probe, but I would not suggest it on a VR4.

Sorry.

My plan for the time being is to at least get a running car, I think at that point I'll be more inclined to fix the body issues. I started trying to straighten the sills and they are rotted to the point that as I tried to straighten them they just started to crumble. It was cracking about 1/2" out from the sill where the ground-effects snap into, so that's all rusted out as well. I recently bought a 220 Volt 110 Amp MIG welder, which I think should be good enough for the thinner sheet metal, so I'm considering doing the body work to remove that rust myself. While I was at it I was also thinking of taking some 1"x2" rectangular steel tubing and nesting that into the seem to help stiffin things up further. I'm also considering finding a few junk non-vr4 Galants and maybe restoring the white car as well as the black shell I have.

That's all I have for now.


Rich, if you could go ahead and send me those sections of your manual I'd appreciate it so I can reference them in the future.

Posted here over mailing so everyne can use it.

That should cover it. i've posted the pillars, floor and rear rail structure as well as the panel joints are quite layered. You'll also see how the internal stacking of panels is made up. in the rusty holes you have you'll see 4 or 5 affected panels.

As i said in an earlier post you can cut back the layers, just make sure you stagger them as a butt weld is not as ductile as the sheet so you don't want them all in the same place (look at the guide for the b pillar)

rich