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I hate rust and stuff

chucklesas

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Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Vultures go away, this thread isn't for you.

Well, I finally got some motivation to start working on these cars again. My plan was to rebuild 363 after the engine bay fire. Well, I started taking the front driver's side fender off... got down to the dog-leg area, removing the bolts that hold the fender on down there. All the metal in that area is rusted to sh*t and is crumbling/breaking up as I try to remove the bolts. I fear the rust on this car is just more than what I have the means to handle. I have two shells sitting here, one that isn't rusty, but that one was rear ended pretty bad. I seriously doubt I could cut out the really bad rust sections and replace them with sections from the other car. I have a feeling both shells are going to be a loss at this point.

What would you do?
 
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chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Quote:
start looking for another shell.



I'm thinking that's going to be the general consensus, which means I'd probably just scrap these 2 shells and unload everything I've got and just get out all together. Oh well, was fun while it lasted... I guess /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

before you scrap, pull the fenders & get an air hammer with a scaler tip. get all the crap out of the way & see how bad it realy is. the fender & effed up undercoating may be making it look worse than it realy is.
 

Before you scrap them, see if anyone here or on other DSM forums wants to buy one or both shells and handle the bodywork.

They aren't making any more of these. Every effort must be made to save every one.
 

dsmpostervw0.jpg
 

That is identical to my old 1990 TSi that was run into the ground by the guy I sold it to. I'm gonna go cry.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,992
Location
Michigan
Honestly, that is not that bad in the pictures. Get that lower fender loose, clean the crap out and seal up the back of the fender and the wheelhouse behind it with something like Zerorust or POR. Stop the rust, paint up the outside and put the dogleg back on. You won't even see it.
 

Id fix it by cutting out & welding in new, that outer rail is a big part of the structure of the unibody. If nothing else I think you'll get a lot more chasis flex in that area, not to mention being weaker in a side hit. That said, I still think it will look a lot less hopless after you get it cleaned up enough to see what you have.
 

misterfixit

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Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
how bad is the bent one? if you can replace trhe quarters, floor and rear crossmember with the rusty one it might be a sounder shell? I've got the the body repair manual. i can post the bits you need?

tells all the spotweld locations and procedures to pull whole lumps out and replace to factory spec. post a pic of the bent one!

Rich
 

mikus

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Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
2,763
Location
Aurora IL
seems like the perfect opportunity for a stretch vr4. Then you can race, get the groceries, and pick up ALL the kids from soccer.

honestly I'd agree with the first post, I wouldn't spend a ton of time on either if they're that bad. Let one of the "there's only so many" shellhuggers spend 23984723 hours cleaning them up.
 

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I guess that bent one isn't THAT horrible, but again, more than something I could handle. I didn't think the rust on the white car would be THAT bad, and figured a car with a bad rear end and a car with a bad front end could turn into a good car.

 

HHIVR4

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Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
5,446
Location
Hilton Head Island SC
To fix that proper you will need to get it on a frame machine and have it measured up and pulled back to spec..You might have to skin the rear quarter but you could get that off the other car.
 
toybreaker

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
These cars don't take a rear end collision well at all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif There's no hydraulic shocks on the rear bumper to absorb any impacts, and those loads are fed right into the unibody rails where they are the strongest, so the unibody buckles where it's weaker.

This weaker area is quite aways from the point of impact

Look for buckling in the real wheel arch, the rear door frames, and stress lines in the roof. (I'm guessing you will find some /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif )

I saw a ~ten~ mile an hour impact total a 91 vr4 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
 

misterfixit

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Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
As i said id rather get the clean one on a frame jig. once the rot sets in you'll only pospone it for a couple of years.

Rich

I'll post some pics to help in a bit
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK


Hope this helps your decision.

If you need owt else please shout! spotwelding is jus like using a stapler.

Have a search around under my posts and you'll see a section of the body manual fr the front frame rail, this will show you the kind of information we have available. If it's any use i'll upload the bit's you'll need. Tell us the panels and structure you need to see and it'll give big clarity to help you decide.

Rich
 
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