So I’m paying a local DSM mechanic to do the work,

The car has been sitting for 7 years, was a fresh motor before I shut her down.

Main things it needs are the
-Fuel rail bolts drilled out, ( because I broke two of them off)
-oil pan resealed
- shifter bushings / clutch pedal adjustment ( horrible getting in and out of gear)
- Flush all fluids
- boost leak test

Said he could do it for $5-800 I told him I wanna spend up to 2k so hopefully I’ll be up and running soon. Meeting on Tuesday with car. Wish me luck

Good luck with getting the vehicle up to par!
I am pretty much in the same boat as yourself... Its been a few years since even being on the forum. I am getting at a good spot income and time wise to start where I left off. Let me know how the fuel rail bolt comes along I have a bolt that snapped also im curious on methods an technique used for removal. Keep us posted I hope to hear positive results.

If you guys are talking about the fuel rail hold down bolts I have broken a few of them over the years as well. They get over tightened and the threads stretch and snap.
I have always used a left hand drill bit and they normally walk themselves out with just the drill bit starting to drill. If that makes sense.

Where in SD are you located?

So the car is almost done, he noticed the fuel filler hose is leaking anyone got one from JNZ available? I just called them and they sold the last one a couple years ago

Just moved to La Mesa 🍻

And the fuel rail bolts are drilled out and new ones installed 🍻

So the shift linkage is blown, anyone got a pair laying around for sale? Found a pair but the guy doesn't know if they are from a 90 or 91

Also got the front mount properly mounted, first time in probably 15 years the front bumper is not sagging.

She’s up and running, the shift linkage is the only thing stopping me from getting a tune. Let me know if anyone can help 🍻

Also here’s a copy and paste of the repairs being done

Colin Vr4
1. Exaust manifold gasket ( evo oe copper)
2. Exaust manifold hardware kit ( oe)
3. Turbo oil line washers and fittings (maybe return like gasket)
4. Driver side axle ( both boots ripped).
5. Throttle body seals and gaskets
6. Valve cover gasket.
7. Power steering pump intake line leaking (needs o rings seals)
8. Fuel rail broken bolts
9. Engine ,Transmission, T case, rear diff fluids n filter.
10. Turbo intake with filter ( needs 4" to 2.5" reducer to fit 16g t).
11. Fix intercooler placement with crash bean
12. Intercooler pipe couplers.
13. Check fans
14. Fix CAS wiring and connector.
15. FIX harness water neck harness connectors.
16. Clean injectors / new injector seals (possibly upgrade for 1200cc or bigger for better fuel).
17. Shifting bushings
20. Upper radiator hose
21. Fix iddle issue (possibly ICV).
22. Properly mount FPR
23. New vacuum lines.
24. Adjust clutch pedal/ test clutch once car running right.




Also needs front Front brakes can be done later down the road.

Do you need the shifter bushings at the lever? Be more specific so you will get good replies.

That's a big list for $800 bucks.

I'm in Vista. Shoot me a PM.

Brett

I have seen your work on your builds. I'd let you wrench on my car anytime bro. Can I get in touch if I need you to do any work for me?


Thanks

Nice my Gf lives in Bonsall so I frequent the area often, I’ll be in contact after she’s up and running cause she’s nearly done at this point 🍻 would love to meet any gvr4 owners 🍻

And sorry I meant to upload a picture of the shift linkage but picked new set in the time I realized the picture didn’t upload.



UPDATE

Ok so for parts its $393 plus upper hose and engine oil so about $430. If you decide to get the intake from me just add $100. So total $430 parts plus $100 for intake and filter if you decide get it. As far as labor I can do everything for $600. So total $1030 without the intake or $1130 with intake.

+ driver side axle $80
+ intercooler couplers $30
+ lower radiator hose $15
+ coolant flush and coolant $20
+ ICV $20
+ fuel filler hose + metal coupler and clamps $35
+ shift linkage install and shifter $0
+ turbo oil oem bajo bolt and washer. $20
+ boost controller $45
+ new fuel return line and fitting to properly mount Fuel pressure regulator. $20
=$285


Labor axle install ,shift linkage and shifter install, lower rad hose install, fuel filler hose repair and install, boost line install, wideband install, coolant flush, rad fan install wiring, j pipe gasket install, new fuel hose and fitting to install fuel pressure regulator.
= $300.

$1130
+285
+300
=$1715

Right now the BOV is dumping all of the pressure on a BLT so he’s gonna put a new flange and different BOV as well

ALSO I’m getting converted to speed density any input on that? Is it a more accurate system then MAF? Anything I should look out for? I have all of the ECMLINK Speed density stuff brand new ready to go from when I bought it 10 hrs ago so it’s just getting added when we do the new intake as well

He’s done numerous things for free like tighten lose bolts randomly on the car , also he found the cam caps were only finger tight, I built the bottom rotating assembly on the bottom and gave the head to a machine shop to freshen up/ resurface. I guess they didn’t tighten them and I was too young and naive to check them.

One of the tires blew on test drive as well, so gonna be getting some fresh shoes.

Anyone in SOCAL know a reasonably priced place to get Paint done?

Quoting Eztoril:
Brett

I have seen your work on your builds. I'd let you wrench on my car anytime bro. Can I get in touch if I need you to do any work for me?


Thanks



Normally, yes. However, I have a deployment upcoming in the near future that will leave me working on jack and sh*t for quite some time.

Just car the galant back and am getting registration tomorrow, I’m getting locked in and out of gear, the clutch only engages when pushed absolutely all the way to the floor , I feel like I’m going to break the pedal.

Buddy said he adjusted the clutch pedal all the way and just put in new shifter cables, Shifter as I thought that was the problem.

After replacing all shifting components he said the clutch is just most likely really worn and flywheel warped because it’s the original

I think I felt it slip in 1st while going up my driveway. Otherwise grabs and pulls when it works.

Also he replaced a ton of gaskets, but when I got there the turbo oil return line was leaking again, I barely ever got that gasket to seal properly. Any tips or tricks for it? Or maybe the screw holes into the oil pan are letting oil out? He said he’s gonna pop a new gasket on when we meet up next time cause his buddy does tuning.

Any recommendations on clutches I think I’m going with these


click

click


Any tips or help appreciated.

I have a ACT light flywheel on mine and a Exedy 6 puck clutch. Link for the clutch didn't work for me, but I will never go back to a street clutch again in the GVR4. They are too heavy to hold the power IMO and the clutch system struggles to push the heavy clutches in. Puck disk and PP is light, gobs of space on the floor. She's a chatty Cathy, but as long as it's not a daily, it's not a issue. The pro's outweigh the negatives. The noise did go down once broken in, and it's only off power.

Oil return line can be hard to seal. Just got to make sure all the old gasket is off and smooth. I've carefully used razor blades and fine sand paper in the past. It also helps to add a little gasket sealer to one side of the gasket to help hold it in place so it doesn't move or shift. I'm not great on everything and I hire a mechanic for things I don't want to do, but gaskets I've replaced have lasted a really long time. Just got to have a clean surface for the new gaskets.

Originally there were sealing washers on the pan end attachment bolts. I think those go missing eventually. Oil can wick through the bolt threads and out under the heads (those small 6mm bolts). If you don't have the you could try a bit of sealant under the head of the bolt when installed.

They sell the bolts with crush washers at ExtremePSI.

The links are for the

ACT STREET LIGHT FLYWHEEL

AND

COMPETITION CLUTCH STAGE 3 STREET/STRIP SERIES 2600


I don’t mind a hard clutch pedal I just want it to hold my goals are about 350-400whp

So your saying don’t go with a flywheel that has street in the name? Sorry for the dumb questions I’ve been out of the game for nearly 10 years and forgot near everything.



Ya I remember back in the day when I used to wrench on this car that sealing that oil return line was an absolute bitch, I remember having to rtv the gasket and 6mm screws to get it to seal properly. Of course I had to remove turbo or something afterwards to break seal and cause leak again.

I remember I had so much trouble with it I actually bought a stainless steel line with AN fittings to try to stop the seal better. Is this an idea that might work? I was 19 when I initially tried it and 27 now so I might be able to work something oot

Also could the clutch slave and master be the culprit of my clutch not engaging when all the way into the floor?

Or is loss of pedal usage a common problem when the clutches wear out?

I ask because I’ve never been locked in and out of gear in other cars when the clutch is spent, just a lot of slipping.