Fixing up 1292
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
yeti Nope still sticky fingers
|
posted 08/14/20 06:18 AM
So the shift linkage is blown, anyone got a pair laying around for sale? Found a pair but the guy doesn't know if they are from a 90 or 91 Also got the front mount properly mounted, first time in probably 15 years the front bumper is not sagging. She’s up and running, the shift linkage is the only thing stopping me from getting a tune. Let me know if anyone can help 🍻 Also here’s a copy and paste of the repairs being done Colin Vr4 1. Exaust manifold gasket ( evo oe copper) 2. Exaust manifold hardware kit ( oe) 3. Turbo oil line washers and fittings (maybe return like gasket) 4. Driver side axle ( both boots ripped). 5. Throttle body seals and gaskets 6. Valve cover gasket. 7. Power steering pump intake line leaking (needs o rings seals) 8. Fuel rail broken bolts 9. Engine ,Transmission, T case, rear diff fluids n filter. 10. Turbo intake with filter ( needs 4" to 2.5" reducer to fit 16g t). 11. Fix intercooler placement with crash bean 12. Intercooler pipe couplers. 13. Check fans 14. Fix CAS wiring and connector. 15. FIX harness water neck harness connectors. 16. Clean injectors / new injector seals (possibly upgrade for 1200cc or bigger for better fuel). 17. Shifting bushings 20. Upper radiator hose 21. Fix iddle issue (possibly ICV). 22. Properly mount FPR 23. New vacuum lines. 24. Adjust clutch pedal/ test clutch once car running right. Also needs front Front brakes can be done later down the road.
~turbohair~
Posts: 785 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) |
|
|
|
|
|
yeti Nope still sticky fingers
|
posted 08/23/20 11:38 PM
Nice my Gf lives in Bonsall so I frequent the area often, I’ll be in contact after she’s up and running cause she’s nearly done at this point 🍻 would love to meet any gvr4 owners 🍻
And sorry I meant to upload a picture of the shift linkage but picked new set in the time I realized the picture didn’t upload. UPDATE Ok so for parts its $393 plus upper hose and engine oil so about $430. If you decide to get the intake from me just add $100. So total $430 parts plus $100 for intake and filter if you decide get it. As far as labor I can do everything for $600. So total $1030 without the intake or $1130 with intake.
+ driver side axle $80
+ intercooler couplers $30
+ lower radiator hose $15 + coolant flush and coolant $20
+ ICV $20 + fuel filler hose + metal coupler and clamps $35
+ shift linkage install and shifter $0
+ turbo oil oem bajo bolt and washer. $20
+ boost controller $45
+ new fuel return line and fitting to properly mount Fuel pressure regulator. $20
=$285
Labor axle install ,shift linkage and shifter install, lower rad hose install, fuel filler hose repair and install, boost line install, wideband install, coolant flush, rad fan install wiring, j pipe gasket install, new fuel hose and fitting to install fuel pressure regulator.
= $300. $1130
+285
+300
=$1715
Right now the BOV is dumping all of the pressure on a BLT so he’s gonna put a new flange and different BOV as well ALSO I’m getting converted to speed density any input on that? Is it a more accurate system then MAF? Anything I should look out for? I have all of the ECMLINK Speed density stuff brand new ready to go from when I bought it 10 hrs ago so it’s just getting added when we do the new intake as well He’s done numerous things for free like tighten lose bolts randomly on the car , also he found the cam caps were only finger tight, I built the bottom rotating assembly on the bottom and gave the head to a machine shop to freshen up/ resurface. I guess they didn’t tighten them and I was too young and naive to check them. One of the tires blew on test drive as well, so gonna be getting some fresh shoes. Anyone in SOCAL know a reasonably priced place to get Paint done?
~turbohair~
Edited by yeti (08/23/20 11:41 PM)
Posts: 785 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) |
|
|
GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
|
posted 08/24/20 10:14 PM
Quoting Eztoril:
Brett
I have seen your work on your builds. I'd let you wrench on my car anytime bro. Can I get in touch if I need you to do any work for me?
Thanks
Normally, yes. However, I have a deployment upcoming in the near future that will leave me working on jack and shit for quite some time.
820/1000 1837/2000 1546/2000-SOLD 1813/2000-SOLD
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (2600:1012:b151:c) |
|
|
yeti Nope still sticky fingers
|
posted 08/26/20 06:59 AM
Just car the galant back and am getting registration tomorrow, I’m getting locked in and out of gear, the clutch only engages when pushed absolutely all the way to the floor , I feel like I’m going to break the pedal. Buddy said he adjusted the clutch pedal all the way and just put in new shifter cables, Shifter as I thought that was the problem. After replacing all shifting components he said the clutch is just most likely really worn and flywheel warped because it’s the original
I think I felt it slip in 1st while going up my driveway. Otherwise grabs and pulls when it works.
Also he replaced a ton of gaskets, but when I got there the turbo oil return line was leaking again, I barely ever got that gasket to seal properly. Any tips or tricks for it? Or maybe the screw holes into the oil pan are letting oil out? He said he’s gonna pop a new gasket on when we meet up next time cause his buddy does tuning. Any recommendations on clutches I think I’m going with these click click Any tips or help appreciated.
~turbohair~
Edited by yeti (08/26/20 07:01 AM)
Posts: 785 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
gvr4ever Forever Member 347/1000
|
posted 08/27/20 08:04 AM
I had a centerforce clutch were the friction material just came off of the disk and prevented the clutch from releasing. It's probably a rare failure, but it happened to me. Usually a worn clutch slips from being worn, but it is possible to have a clutch failure that prevents shifting.
I would suggesting looking at the slave and master clutch cylinders because that is almost always the cause of a weak clutch pedal that isn't releasing properly. A stainless steel clutch line can help as well.
I don't see a problem with the ACT Flywheel. I personally hated the ACT 2600. Others don't mind it at all. I've read that the ACT 2900 feels lighter, but I don't personally have any experience with it. Maybe others can chime in. I can no longer recommend a centerforce. Good pedal feel, but mine was never abused, never raced, never clutch dropped, and it just feel apart anyway.
Overall ACT clutches are good for the money, but I'd personally probably lean to Exedy. The stage 1 street disk isn't enough for the power, but a stage 2 should be. A 6 puck would definitely be. I mainly like it because of how easy it is to push in. Almost stock like, and I never stalled it, even when I first got in it. Took about a day to get used to the fast release point.
1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998
Posts: 5993 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (142.79.57.1) |
|
|
|
|
|
|