Good luck with getting the vehicle up to par!
I am pretty much in the same boat as yourself... Its been a few years since even being on the forum. I am getting at a good spot income and time wise to start where I left off. Let me know how the fuel rail bolt comes along I have a bolt that snapped also im curious on methods an technique used for removal. Keep us posted I hope to hear positive results.

Where in SD are you located?

Just moved to La Mesa 🍻

So the shift linkage is blown, anyone got a pair laying around for sale? Found a pair but the guy doesn't know if they are from a 90 or 91

Also got the front mount properly mounted, first time in probably 15 years the front bumper is not sagging.

She’s up and running, the shift linkage is the only thing stopping me from getting a tune. Let me know if anyone can help 🍻

Also here’s a copy and paste of the repairs being done

Colin Vr4
1. Exaust manifold gasket ( evo oe copper)
2. Exaust manifold hardware kit ( oe)
3. Turbo oil line washers and fittings (maybe return like gasket)
4. Driver side axle ( both boots ripped).
5. Throttle body seals and gaskets
6. Valve cover gasket.
7. Power steering pump intake line leaking (needs o rings seals)
8. Fuel rail broken bolts
9. Engine ,Transmission, T case, rear diff fluids n filter.
10. Turbo intake with filter ( needs 4" to 2.5" reducer to fit 16g t).
11. Fix intercooler placement with crash bean
12. Intercooler pipe couplers.
13. Check fans
14. Fix CAS wiring and connector.
15. FIX harness water neck harness connectors.
16. Clean injectors / new injector seals (possibly upgrade for 1200cc or bigger for better fuel).
17. Shifting bushings
20. Upper radiator hose
21. Fix iddle issue (possibly ICV).
22. Properly mount FPR
23. New vacuum lines.
24. Adjust clutch pedal/ test clutch once car running right.




Also needs front Front brakes can be done later down the road.

That's a big list for $800 bucks.

I'm in Vista. Shoot me a PM.

Nice my Gf lives in Bonsall so I frequent the area often, I’ll be in contact after she’s up and running cause she’s nearly done at this point 🍻 would love to meet any gvr4 owners 🍻

And sorry I meant to upload a picture of the shift linkage but picked new set in the time I realized the picture didn’t upload.



UPDATE

Ok so for parts its $393 plus upper hose and engine oil so about $430. If you decide to get the intake from me just add $100. So total $430 parts plus $100 for intake and filter if you decide get it. As far as labor I can do everything for $600. So total $1030 without the intake or $1130 with intake.

+ driver side axle $80
+ intercooler couplers $30
+ lower radiator hose $15
+ coolant flush and coolant $20
+ ICV $20
+ fuel filler hose + metal coupler and clamps $35
+ shift linkage install and shifter $0
+ turbo oil oem bajo bolt and washer. $20
+ boost controller $45
+ new fuel return line and fitting to properly mount Fuel pressure regulator. $20
=$285


Labor axle install ,shift linkage and shifter install, lower rad hose install, fuel filler hose repair and install, boost line install, wideband install, coolant flush, rad fan install wiring, j pipe gasket install, new fuel hose and fitting to install fuel pressure regulator.
= $300.

$1130
+285
+300
=$1715

Right now the BOV is dumping all of the pressure on a BLT so he’s gonna put a new flange and different BOV as well

ALSO I’m getting converted to speed density any input on that? Is it a more accurate system then MAF? Anything I should look out for? I have all of the ECMLINK Speed density stuff brand new ready to go from when I bought it 10 hrs ago so it’s just getting added when we do the new intake as well

He’s done numerous things for free like tighten lose bolts randomly on the car , also he found the cam caps were only finger tight, I built the bottom rotating assembly on the bottom and gave the head to a machine shop to freshen up/ resurface. I guess they didn’t tighten them and I was too young and naive to check them.

One of the tires blew on test drive as well, so gonna be getting some fresh shoes.

Anyone in SOCAL know a reasonably priced place to get Paint done?

Just car the galant back and am getting registration tomorrow, I’m getting locked in and out of gear, the clutch only engages when pushed absolutely all the way to the floor , I feel like I’m going to break the pedal.

Buddy said he adjusted the clutch pedal all the way and just put in new shifter cables, Shifter as I thought that was the problem.

After replacing all shifting components he said the clutch is just most likely really worn and flywheel warped because it’s the original

I think I felt it slip in 1st while going up my driveway. Otherwise grabs and pulls when it works.

Also he replaced a ton of gaskets, but when I got there the turbo oil return line was leaking again, I barely ever got that gasket to seal properly. Any tips or tricks for it? Or maybe the screw holes into the oil pan are letting oil out? He said he’s gonna pop a new gasket on when we meet up next time cause his buddy does tuning.

Any recommendations on clutches I think I’m going with these


click

click


Any tips or help appreciated.

Oil return line can be hard to seal. Just got to make sure all the old gasket is off and smooth. I've carefully used razor blades and fine sand paper in the past. It also helps to add a little gasket sealer to one side of the gasket to help hold it in place so it doesn't move or shift. I'm not great on everything and I hire a mechanic for things I don't want to do, but gaskets I've replaced have lasted a really long time. Just got to have a clean surface for the new gaskets.

They sell the bolts with crush washers at ExtremePSI.

Also could the clutch slave and master be the culprit of my clutch not engaging when all the way into the floor?

Or is loss of pedal usage a common problem when the clutches wear out?

I ask because I’ve never been locked in and out of gear in other cars when the clutch is spent, just a lot of slipping.

Yes, the clutch system condition could be a cause. A year ago my daily driver was having issues with full disengagement. Turned out the master was all gunked up and failing. Not entirely my fault as I have only owned the car a couple years, but looked like the fluid had never been changed in 18 years.

I would bleed it and make sure you are getting full travel. Memory is a little fuzzy, but I think 11 mm of travel for the clutch fork at the slave cylinder is normal.

The ACT Street lite flywheels are nice. I have had them in 2 GVR4s. William (gvr4ever) was agreeing. He just left out the word street I believe.

Just thought of something. If you end up changing the clutch. It sounds like you are. Buy a new clutch fork. Don't know if you have an original or not, but they revised the part and made it stronger. The stock one flexed (especially with a heavier clutch) and my original one actually broke in half.

Either way, it's been sitting for 7 years, and the part isn't that much. Having to drop the transmission again for a clutch fork suuuucks.