Timing tool wrong one ???? Installing timing belt 1G 4g63
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FlyingEagle 
Eager Beaver
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posted 09/13/13 02:41 PM   
Quoting galant651:
not quite sure if i read it right but it sounds like your turning it counter clockwise. the easiest way is to install timing tool, rotate clockwise until belt gets tight, lightly tighten bolt on tensioner pulley, check hyd. tensioner pin, ( tensioner pin should be able to be pulled out and put back in when the tensioner pulley is correctly tightened) if you cant pull the pin easily tighten or loosen the tensioner pulley until you can. once you can, make sure everything is tight, remove pin and manually turn over engine 2x and then recheck to make sure all timing marks are correct.
sorry for the long story but ive seen alot of people have problems with it. if the tool is properly make it should work. if not you can get the jay racing or find one thats similar.
That's great info concerning the pin tension whereby the hydraulic adjuster should be loaded and set in the proper "range" allowing for easy pin removal.
Sadly the tool that I have, requires to be swung into the water pump location from what I seen and tried. If you turn the tensioner eccentric counterclockwise, it moves the belt to far to the firewall and makes it that much closer to the washer holding the tension arm assembly. Company I bought the tool from says my inquiry was their first after many sales. I need to go sit and stare at it again. I watched the factory video on YouTube, and DSM Graveyard's timing belt walk through and somewhat to no avail. I do this for a living, but some days .... Yeesh!  I hope it's a tool thing!
Iceman,
Thanks for the heads up on the realignment tip. It's going to help for sure!
C53A 1 of the ~1500
Edited by FlyingEagle (09/15/13 08:02 AM)
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (108.162.241.49) | 
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FlyingEagle
Eager Beaver
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posted 09/15/13 10:42 PM
Quoting iceman69510:
I always start with the tensioner pulley little holes vertical (one on top of the other) and they usually with a new belt end up where an imaginary line centered between them points to about 11 o'clock. I am having trouble visualizing what you are having a problem with, but if the actual water pump "pulley" is in the way, you should remove it (usually has to be off to get the cover off anyway...).
Pic 1.
Just as you mentioned this is the vertical line between the two holes in the eccentric portion of the tensioner pulley.
Pic 2.
If you install the Schley tool with the handle facing the 9:00 position, you hit the water pump body. Installing the tool with the handle in the 3:00 position, you hit the bolt head and cover it completely, so you cannot get the wrench on it to tighten it properly once you reach 24 in/lbs.
So, using the OTC/Jay Racing/dealer style tool seems the only route.
Pics courtesy of VFAQ.com
Edited by FlyingEagle (09/15/13 10:44 PM)
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (108.162.241.49) |
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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000
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posted 09/16/13 02:25 PM
Quoting iceman69510:
Have to turn the engine 6x to get timing marks aligned again.
Only if you still have balance shafts. The oil pump timing mark doesnt need to line up if you have a BSE installed and removed the front BS.
If you've no balance shafts, 2 rotations should do it. I usually do at least 4, and rotate it backward about half a turn after the first two, just to make sure the belt is seated nicely and the slack is in the right place.
92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster
Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (199.27.128.210) |
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FlyingEagle
Eager Beaver
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posted 09/16/13 07:53 PM
Edited by FlyingEagle (09/16/13 07:54 PM)
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (108.162.241.49) |
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FlyingEagle
Eager Beaver
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posted 09/26/13 12:30 AM
Got to work and tried the tool in every which way possible - only one possibility. Not possible. If the spanner holes were meant to be on the other side, this would work. Following the diagrams in the manual showing the two holes on the eccentric, on the left side of the pulley, I would have to modify the tool to get it to work.
Voila, FOO on Schley!
Video:
click    0.149" drill bit installed after 6 full clockwise revolutions of the crank and 15+ mins. Bit should be between 0.150" and 0.180", this spec'd properly for the tensioner rod protrusion check.
 All my timing marks are lined up, belt seems properly tight, and I never want to be going in there again! Thanks for all the help guys, this was the single most frustrating thing about my build so far, short of the transmission. We can save that for later, because I am.
Edited by FlyingEagle (09/26/13 12:58 AM)
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (108.162.241.49) |
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