I've heard of folks shaving the piston skirts a few mm just to be safe. If the pistons do dip into the oil, you'll be foaming the oil..not good. Swapping the crank in the car is a total bitch, as you still have to move the tranny off the engine to get at the flywheel bolts...remember? It is much easier to pull the motor. I just finished an IN THE CAR rebuild on the white eclipse gsx and let me tell you that it was the stupidest thing I ever did. It worked, but prying the damned upper thrust bearing out with the crank in was a total nightmare. To each his own though. There isn't a guy who owns a dsm that isn't a masochist at heart...these cars have some strange engineering. I have a dohc 4 banger 91 camry with almost 200k on the original timing belt. Try that in our cars. The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much for the sqirters to get stuck open or closed. The 2g squirters are also a contributor to the 2g crank walk problem, as the squirters are fed off the main and rod bearing oil feed, not a separate oil feed as in the 1g big rod motors. Nothing like reducing your oil pressure to the rod and mains at high rpm to get people in the dealership spending money.

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News on the block grinding; supposedly when using the 6 bolt 2.4 crank with stock 2.0 rods and custom pistons, you shouldn't have to grind.

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On my 4g63 block using stock rods, 2.4 crank and Wiseco stroker pistons as best I could tell [it was hard to get a feeler gauge in there] there was not enough clearance [>1.25mm / 0.050" recommended by a reputable local race engine builder] for the rod end especially on the oil squirter side. Just to be safe I ground the lower edges of the cylinders and flattened the casting step in the block on the oil squirter side. Too much clearance is better than the alternative.

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(edited) Sufficient cooling can come from proper Air/fuel mixture and I am a witness....Oil squirters may help cool slightly, but I don't like the impact they have on overall oil pressure.

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I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure. If you don't like squirters because of the oil pressure drop, that's a completely separate issue from whether or not the squirters provide some piston cooling. Mitsu very clearly states in the Tech Manual that the squirters are there to cool the pistons. If Mitsu didn't think they had a useful benefit, they wouldn't have spent the money to install them. I'll agree that with proper tuning they may not be necessary, however, I want the extra safety margin since I will have the car running WOT for 45min to run the Silver State Challenge and that is incredibly tough on any cooling system.

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(edited) Oil squirters- the dips in oil pressure on my VR4 is with a new oil pump...Usually on turbo dsm's (in my circle of buddies here) if the rpm's dip to 600 to 700, the oil light flickers (not solid).

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This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership never having spun a bearing or had a oil pressure problem of any kind. The only time I've ever seen the low oil pressure light is when my friend used 0W Mobil 1 in the summer. At my first Talon's 150k mile refresh the original bearings were excellent and the bores still had the original crosshatch. Guess I've just had good luck.

Anyway, as far as the 2.3/2.4 swaps go, to each his/her own since there are many "right" ways to do it all depending on your goals. I'll just say that I'm finding the 2.4 crank in 2.0 swap very easy, painless, relatively inexpensive and things are going well. Yeah the rod ratio sucks, but I won't be revving the thing beyond the stock redline so I'm not worried.

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Originally posted by fast_gvr4:
Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!!

I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!!

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People and rod ratio. IT IS A NON ISSUE! I have 4 friends, one with over 20k miles, who all run their 2.3L stroker or 2.4's up to 8500-9k rpm. They all drive the cars hard, and NONE of them have had issues. Yes the rod ratio is worse than the 2.0, but it is still within acceptable range. You will have a non-shifting tranny long before rod ratio starts breaking parts.

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Originally posted by Beemer:
The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not.

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False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in.

dc_style,

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how much did it cost you to put in the oil squirters?

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I'm not sure if you are asking me, but it cost me ~$110 for the block machining and $80 for brand new oil squirter parts from Mitsu.

My poor motor - it started out it's life as a NT, then got turbo'ed and now is turning into a 2.3L. I'm sure the poor 4g63 is scared to see what I do to it next.

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Originally posted by GVR-4:
I've heard the piston skirts on a 2.4 will dip into the oil at the bottom of the stroke. Can anyone confirm this?

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That can't be true. The piston skirts would have to extend BELOW the rod journal at BDC. Think about it. If that were the case, the crank would be spinning in the oil all the time.

Ren

Marco / Magnus has offered the hi-rev 2.4 for a while now - 2.1L. 11k rpm would be nice if you actually get the stock tranny to shift at that speed.

As far as 2.3L pistons go, I'm building mine w/ Wiseco.

g64b crank part number = MD080691
bearings part number = MD091399

I'm about to order both of these so if anyone knows differently please tell me now. Groc or anyone else with a finished stroker?

bump...anyone?

How much was the crank??

Cool thanks

Juan

Stroke it!!!!!