Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...
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BlackHole Unregistered
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posted 01/29/04 07:13 AM
quote: News on the block grinding; supposedly when using the 6 bolt 2.4 crank with stock 2.0 rods and custom pistons, you shouldn't have to grind.
On my 4g63 block using stock rods, 2.4 crank and Wiseco stroker pistons as best I could tell [it was hard to get a feeler gauge in there] there was not enough clearance [>1.25mm / 0.050" recommended by a reputable local race engine builder] for the rod end especially on the oil squirter side. Just to be safe I ground the lower edges of the cylinders and flattened the casting step in the block on the oil squirter side. Too much clearance is better than the alternative.
quote: (edited) Sufficient cooling can come from proper Air/fuel mixture and I am a witness....Oil squirters may help cool slightly, but I don't like the impact they have on overall oil pressure.
I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure. If you don't like squirters because of the oil pressure drop, that's a completely separate issue from whether or not the squirters provide some piston cooling. Mitsu very clearly states in the Tech Manual that the squirters are there to cool the pistons. If Mitsu didn't think they had a useful benefit, they wouldn't have spent the money to install them. I'll agree that with proper tuning they may not be necessary, however, I want the extra safety margin since I will have the car running WOT for 45min to run the Silver State Challenge and that is incredibly tough on any cooling system.
quote: (edited) Oil squirters- the dips in oil pressure on my VR4 is with a new oil pump...Usually on turbo dsm's (in my circle of buddies here) if the rpm's dip to 600 to 700, the oil light flickers (not solid).
This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership never having spun a bearing or had a oil pressure problem of any kind. The only time I've ever seen the low oil pressure light is when my friend used 0W Mobil 1 in the summer. At my first Talon's 150k mile refresh the original bearings were excellent and the bores still had the original crosshatch. Guess I've just had good luck.
Anyway, as far as the 2.3/2.4 swaps go, to each his/her own since there are many "right" ways to do it all depending on your goals. I'll just say that I'm finding the 2.4 crank in 2.0 swap very easy, painless, relatively inexpensive and things are going well. Yeah the rod ratio sucks, but I won't be revving the thing beyond the stock redline so I'm not worried.
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anomalyva Unregistered
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posted 01/29/04 09:27 AM
quote: Originally posted by fast_gvr4: Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!!
I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!!
People and rod ratio. IT IS A NON ISSUE! I have 4 friends, one with over 20k miles, who all run their 2.3L stroker or 2.4's up to 8500-9k rpm. They all drive the cars hard, and NONE of them have had issues. Yes the rod ratio is worse than the 2.0, but it is still within acceptable range. You will have a non-shifting tranny long before rod ratio starts breaking parts.
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MustGoFaster Unregistered
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posted 01/29/04 09:42 AM
quote: Originally posted by Beemer: The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not.
False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in.
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liquidgvr4 Unregistered
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posted 01/29/04 10:22 AM
quote: False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in
actually your right; now I remember they do have a little spring in the bolt (sometimes I confuse starions and eclipse engines because I've done both, but both have the springs I think).
quote: I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure.
My statement was meant to be a comparison of trade-offs; sorry it that wasn't clear. I didn't confuse to two.
quote: This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership
Who know's; maybe it's the warmer GA climate, I don't know. But here's my resume and that of one of my friend's: 8 mitsu turbo cars (6 starions/conquests, one gvr4, one tel) and a former Mitsu service adviser (currently @ land rover), and I've built almost as many engines as mitsu products I've own. My buddy Mike (who experiences the same prob) has been working @ mitsu for 10 years, is currently an asst. svc manager, has a 450whp '92 talon (1998,1999,2000, and 2003 Nopi Nat'l eclipse mild class champ), slightly modded '92 eclipse (his fiancee's; 2003 Nopi Nat'l conservative class champ), and a deadly quick 1989 modded turbo colt (1.6 dohc; he doesn't experience the pressure drop in this; and to be fair my turbo mirage was a 1.6, too, so that may be unfair to include that car in my "sacraficed Oil pressure w/ squirters" theory). My buddy's bro-in-law had two tel's and even in his when the RPM's dip (when pulling from a stop and not getting on the gas, or whatever reason the rpm's dropped under certain conditions, the oil light will flicker for a brief sec. or less), it did the same thing. Why we got into listing the "resume", I don't know. I guess I just wanted to let you know that I'm not a total idiot, just partial
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turboren Official GVR4.org Polo Shirt Pimp 1571/2000
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posted 02/29/04 06:59 PM
quote: Originally posted by GVR-4: I've heard the piston skirts on a 2.4 will dip into the oil at the bottom of the stroke. Can anyone confirm this?
That can't be true. The piston skirts would have to extend BELOW the rod journal at BDC. Think about it. If that were the case, the crank would be spinning in the oil all the time.
Ren
Posts: 538 | From: Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 08/20/03 | IP: (198.26.132.99) |
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