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Blown HG , cracked block how do I tell. Where to start? YouTube link video attac


yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250528 posted 03/19/21 02:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click


So I turned my Mbc up a complete turn and didnít notice a difference so I turned it again and on the first wot pull I backfire,!and lost at least one cylinder , white smoke smells like coolant.

Drove for about 2 miles after it popped

Really hoping I didnít cause damage to bearings

Iíve swapped motors and trannys and done timing before but never have pulled the head. Anything to watch out for?

Iím going to keep exhaust mani and intake mani on while pulling to speed the process up.

How do I remove timing belt? Do I need to hold cams or lock them in place before doing so.
Been so long Iíve forgotten

I installed the BSE kit when I built the motor, so I wonít need to order that stuff, but new timing pulleys and a tensioner + new belt + water pump is a must at least correct?. Motor only has 7000 miles on it but it sat for 10 years.

Should I do the front case gasket or ofh gasket while down there?

As for the HG do I order the OEM organic one?
I read a lot of people suggest the composite one, is that the organic one, or the same as the felt HG?


I know I donít want to use the metal Hg as the block isnít being decked, correct?
Or should I go for it considering this block only has 7000 on it and I had it decked then.
Iíve got arp head studs installed Iíll be reusing.



~turbohair~


Edited by yeti (03/19/21 10:10 PM)

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250529 posted 03/19/21 10:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I tore off everything except the timing side

Do I move piston 1 to tdc than place a pin inside the tensioner than unbolt the tensioner? Whatís the proper way of removing timing belt, I donít wanna fork my valves up

Any tips appreciated



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yubh8tn
Member
1384/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250530 posted 03/19/21 11:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I can take a picture of my machinist's book that has a pretty detailed step by step timing instruction. If I remember right it says how to correctly remove the belt and tensioner. Also after 10 years of sitting, it might be a good idea to at least replace the tensioner. I'm not certified or licensed in anything tho so take that with some salt. If ur pulleys have any play or weird surface grooves / rust I'd replace them but if they're solid and clean they are probably fine to run.

Like I say every time though, take what I say with a grain of salt and wait for more experienced members to comment as well.



Belize Green 1384/2000
1998 Integra


Edited by yubh8tn (03/19/21 11:12 PM)

Posts: 100 | From: coeur d alene, idaho | Member Since: 08/21/19 | IP: (2600:100f:b05d:7) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250531 posted 03/20/21 01:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That would be great brotha, any help is appreciated 🍻

Looking through the ancient forums a lot of people go over setting timing but not removing the belt from tension.



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250532 posted 03/20/21 08:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not sure if anyone else is hosting it, but this is what I used to use.

click

Need to use the wayback machine.

I'm not a certified mechanic either, but I've never had a timing belt break or slip on me using that. Following the instructions will get you to TDC. I have the actual mistu part to compress the auto tensioner, so once compressed the pulley can be removed. Don't need to stick a pin in it unless you wanted to reuse it, but why would you? I've also never been able to get the holes to line up to stick a pin in anyway. Pay attention to step 21, if you are still using your balance shafts. If you are, it might be time to deal with that. I replaced the rear with the shorty shaft and left the front one in (can only do this before a front bearing freeze/failure). I run the risk of the gasket leaking, but I don't think the front job can be done properly without the engine out. IMO. The work on the rear was a challenge for me.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 6005 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250536 posted 03/20/21 10:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So to remove the belt I just unbolted the tensioner, as my friends suggestion. After lining up all the timing marks and putting piston 1 at TDC


Iíve torn off everything and the head is ready to lift.

I think Iím gonna replace the water pump, and timing tensioner, the pulleys are covered in oil but rotate smoothly and seem fine. They only have 7k miles on them.

So fel pro composite gasket , resurface head , new timing belt, new tensioner , water pump.

Good to go?

Also I do not have balance shafts , I removed both when building this motor 10 yrs ago





~turbohair~


Edited by yeti (03/20/21 10:19 PM)

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250538 posted 03/21/21 04:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Also going for the gates timing kit and felpro headgasket kit.

Do I need to worry about using the gates hydraulic tensioner?



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250539 posted 03/21/21 07:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This looks like it would totally be worth it. click

I only have the tool to compress the tensioner. You need that, just in case you don't get the tension perfect the first try, but the rest of the bits look nice too. I still used clamps and zip ties last time I did it.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 6005 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250543 posted 03/22/21 03:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I plan I gettin a 8mmx1.25 8inch long bolt and using two nuts to create a stop for the tensioner tool.

Also read I can just put the tensioner in a Vice and crank it down very slowly then out a pin in. ( think thatís what I did a long time ago on this motor originally )

And as for the other tool the one with the two prongs my buddys got locally I can borrow.



Anyways, pulled the head off today, gonna hit the machine shop tomorrow.

Pics of blown out HG

Whatís best method for removing old gasket on block deck? Should I bust my wire wheel out? Just razor blades?

Also anyone have any input against the gates auto tensioner? Gonna be getting their whole timing kit.

Spoken to over 10 people currently using them with high mileage and hp.



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2607:fb90:6633:f) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250544 posted 03/22/21 03:23 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      

Also whyís it look like one of my pistons looks like itís been beat with a tiny hammer?








~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2607:fb90:6633:f) | Report this post to a Moderator

Nebraska
Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250545 posted 03/22/21 09:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I am no wiseman but it looks like signs of slight detonation. This is most likely caused by not having enough octane in your fuel (I.e. boosting on the cheap stuff)

Also for timing belt instructions
Vfaq click
Vfaq timing for 1G click





1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."


Edited by Nebraska (03/22/21 09:18 AM)

Posts: 126 | From: Lincoln, NE | Member Since: 04/09/15 | IP: (152.51.56.152) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250546 posted 03/22/21 09:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I "think" those are just little indentions for valve clearance. Been awhile since I saw my pistons. I'm more worried about the vertical scoring on your walls. Hopefully it's just the flash from your camera highlighting something that isn't as bad as it looks.

I carefully used a razor blade to remove my HG. It's steel, so you shouldn't be able to just dig in, but watch your angle and pressure and just take your time.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 6005 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250547 posted 03/22/21 03:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Nebraska:

I am no wiseman but it looks like signs of slight detonation. This is most likely caused by not having enough octane in your fuel (I.e. boosting on the cheap stuff)





Running on e85, my injectors did look gunked up, could that be a leaning out issue?

Getting them cleaned and flow tested


@gvr4ever do you mean the half moon crescents in the pistons? Ya those are valve reliefs, talkin aboot all the tiny little spots, they are dented in, same with the valve chamber for that area. No dented valves or anything.

And yes the vertical scoring, thatís why I included that specific shot, I felt it with my fingernail and couldnt feel anything, hoping it was a result of trying to drive on coolant in oil and isnít serious.

On a side note. I think Iím planning on putting the car back together with the original timing everything just to see if it runs for a day or so then go ahead and order the new timing kit, otherwise if this motor is trash Iíll just be throwing money at parts that donít matter.



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250548 posted 03/22/21 03:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Never mind hereís the shot with more vertical scoring.

Again couldnít feel it any difference with my fingernail


:?:?:?



~turbohair~

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250549 posted 03/22/21 07:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The vertical scoring looks bad in the pictures, but that's actually out of my expertise. If you put it back together with a fresh head gasket and it runs and has decent compression, might as well run it till it till it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
As for the pitting, my eyes just aren't seeing it. Wonder if the coolant ate away some of the carbon. Now, if you ran lean and hard enough to damage the piston rings, then the scoring might be an issue. I hope others chime in. When I had my head off, the cylinder walls did not look like that at all. Look like it had the factory cross marks.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 6005 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator

Nebraska
Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250550 posted 03/23/21 07:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Quoting yeti:

Quoting Nebraska:

I am no wiseman but it looks like signs of slight detonation. This is most likely caused by not having enough octane in your fuel (I.e. boosting on the cheap stuff)





Running on e85, my injectors did look gunked up, could that be a leaning out issue?

Getting them cleaned and flow tested


@gvr4ever do you mean the half moon crescents in the pistons? Ya those are valve reliefs, talkin aboot all the tiny little spots, they are dented in, same with the valve chamber for that area. No dented valves or anything.

And yes the vertical scoring, thatís why I included that specific shot, I felt it with my fingernail and couldnt feel anything, hoping it was a result of trying to drive on coolant in oil and isnít serious.

On a side note. I think Iím planning on putting the car back together with the original timing everything just to see if it runs for a day or so then go ahead and order the new timing kit, otherwise if this motor is trash Iíll just be throwing money at parts that donít matter.




If youíre on e85 I doubt it is detonation. If you were referring to the valve reliefs then that is my bad.

As for the marks on the cylinder wall

That's pretty normal wear on a cylinder. The reason it is located where it is? Think about how the rod moves as the crank turns. The stroke of the crank, combined with the angle of the rod, causes the piston to push a little harder into those sides of the bore as it goes up and down. That's what causes the wear in that location



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."

Posts: 126 | From: Lincoln, NE | Member Since: 04/09/15 | IP: (152.51.56.152) | Report this post to a Moderator


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