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Sprung Clutch disc VS unsprung disc ? Also which flywheel?

Nope still sticky fingers

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249935 posted 10/25/20 05:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just looking to see what everyone prefers,

Iíve read that with sprung discs the springs can pop out on you locking you in or out of gear, Iíve heard the unsprung discs crack if you daily them.

Iíve heard unsprung discs are hard on your transmission and Iíve heard sprung discs are hell on your flywheel.

I recently pulled a 6 puck unsprung clutch disc from my car so thatís what Iím used to driving ( the whole on/off style clutch )

And I donít think I noticed any difference with a lightened flywheel unless it makes you supper boggy in low rpms off boost

Iím pretty sure Iím gonna do the act streetlite flywheel as my stocker is pretty roasted and have a giant groove from the clutch in it.

Should I drop my stock off at machine shop and ask for them to resurface?

Kinda afraid to use a resurfaced flywheel


Edited by yeti (10/25/20 05:23 PM)

Posts: 795 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

Extreme Indoor Cyclist

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249940 posted 10/26/20 05:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If we're talking about street cars with relatively modest power and good driveability, not a lot of real drag launches, i'm in the single plate, full face, sprung hub camp.

I've had a solid hub clutch before, but in a car that weighed about 2200 lbs and didn't have much power. Felt a little more direct and "sharp" I guess you could say.

TRE wrote this, sums it up for me pretty good.


DAILY DRIVER: OEM style clutches are best for daily drivers who are looking for the longest clutch & drivetrain life. Clutch life will vary with how you drive. The torque capacity must properly chosen so that the clutch slips before parts break. More about clutches can be found on this site later. Sprung hub type clutch discs are recommended because they reduce transmission chatter from the harmonics of the engine making their way into the transmission. These harmonics will make the transmission chatter because of the backlash between the gear teeth and will wear out the gears and splines on the input shaft as well. This is why OEM clutches use sprung hub damper assemblies. However, sprung hub assemblies are not designed to cushion the drivetrain from shock loads and the damper springs can get damaged from hard clutch dumps. This is also compounded when aftermarket clutch manufactures increase the clamp load of the spring plate without doing anything to strengthen the damper assembly. To avoid damaging the sprung hub assembly one must learn the classic slip-dump method.

Depending how deep that groove in your FW is, i'd probably go for the streetlite. I had one, the weight was nice inertia-wise for street driving. No complaints.

1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1951/2000 (SOLD)

Posts: 1977 | From: Marysville, WA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Forever Member

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249942 posted 10/26/20 08:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Go for the act streetlite flywheel. Don't want to resurface a old one, unless maybe the surface has zero stress cracks, but the lighter flywheel will allow the RPMs to rise just a tad faster.

I personally prefer a puck style disk, and some have a little dampening. Not as much as a street disk, but IMO the street disk to hold power get real heavy and are hard on the clutch hydraulic system.. The puck style is lighter and has more room on the floor, but will chatter off gas at lower RPMs. Not great for slow cursing. If you adjust the driving style a little and keep the RPMs higher, than it's not really a issue.

As far as what will break? If you plan to do full on drag racing and high RPM clutch dumps, than anything will break. Pretty sure you should have a spare transmission ready to go as well as clutch/flywheel parts. If you don't need to get off the line as quickly as possible, and don't shock the drivetrain, you likely won't break either.

1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Edited by gvr4ever (10/26/20 08:19 AM)

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