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breaking in motor


yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065104 posted 04/30/12 02:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Main questions are I need to drain my gas tank of e85 and clean fuel pump/injectors, put in 91 and stock turbo and injectors but keep whinebro in, convert dsmlink back to stock, except for fuel pressure.

I know I should break the car in on gasoline but I know there's gonna be some exd leftover inthere.

Should I break in on e85?

Also upon first start up should I drive around the block,rev the engine, idle for 30 mins, go do hot laps?

And then change oil after 500-1000 miles and then its broken in



~turbohair~

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TomN
ReNoonen


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065107 posted 04/30/12 02:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Start the car and let get to operating temp. Shut it down and drain the oil and put new oil in then start it back up go for a ride around block bringing it back to operating temp then floor it in 2nd and 3rd revving it to around 5500 rpms and letting off and letting motor slow you down. Do that a few times then drain oil and refil. Then go drive it like normal.



Tom N
94 EVO I ( no times yet )

91 Galant VR-4
11.497 @ 119.55 (16g power)

Posts: 207 | From: North Port, Fl | Member Since: 11/21/11 | IP: (198.228.232.35) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065125 posted 04/30/12 05:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gotcha,

What about the e85 I should drain and use 91 for brake in period right



~turbohair~

Posts: 797 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (74.82.64.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

TomN
ReNoonen


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065133 posted 04/30/12 06:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I honestly do not have a opinion on that. We do not have E85 down here so I have never used it or looked into pros and cons of it for such a thing as break in. My opinion on that would be based on no personal experience and I dont give those.



Tom N
94 EVO I ( no times yet )

91 Galant VR-4
11.497 @ 119.55 (16g power)

Posts: 207 | From: North Port, Fl | Member Since: 11/21/11 | IP: (98.244.221.198) | Report this post to a Moderator

Street Surgeon
Professor Street Surgeon
501/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065160 posted 04/30/12 09:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would break it in on normal gas with a normal (stock) tune. As mentioned before I'd start it, let it warm up to the full operating temp and then perform an oil change (use break-in oil or SAE30w), and re-torque the head studs and exhaust manifold studs. You don't have to, it's just something I (and others) do. Once you've completed that I'd find a nice hilly area and give her a lil' gas going up the hills and TONS of engine breaking going down the hills ala moto-tune method for a few hundred miles. After that, regular but not harsh driving until 750/1000 miles and let her rip. That's just me.

Also, this is how I performed or would recommend you perform the oil changes.

Warm to normal operating temp - Change oil
First 50 miles - Change oil
Next at 200 miles - Change oil
Next at 500 miles - Change oil
Next at 1000 miles - Change oil

Then you're set.



Cory O.
'92 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 501/1000
Heavily modified, barely driven, some assembly required.


Edited by Street Surgeon (04/30/12 09:34 PM)

Posts: 941 | From: Omaha, Nebraska | Member Since: 03/03/04 | IP: (24.223.245.235) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065206 posted 05/01/12 04:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gotcha sounds good, thanks for all the help..

And I should use sae30w for just the first start up right then use normal oil after that?



~turbohair~

Posts: 797 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (74.82.64.144) | Report this post to a Moderator

5OF2k
Member ++
5/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065215 posted 05/01/12 09:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
street surgeon explained it almost exactly how I do it. However, I will run the straight 30W oil all the way up to the 1K mark, then switch to full synthetic. Also, reverting the car back to the factory setup would most definitely be your best bet. That way, any holes in your base tune/etc wont damage the fresh build. Or, you can always go with the dyno break-in and have it broken in on the dyno and tuned for your new setup in one swing (check with your tuner on this, as everyone has a different opinion on which route to take when it comes to breaking in an engine).

hope that helps!

-Jake



1993 Talon TSI, FPgreen DD
1957 VW Beetle Sedan Deluxe
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Street Surgeon
Professor Street Surgeon
501/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065499 posted 05/02/12 09:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
30w 'til she's fully broken in, and then switch over to whatever oil you deem worthy. Personally I used Brad Penn 20w50 but that part is your call, they also make a 10w30 oil as well if that's your thing. It's your call what kind of oil to use after breaking the motor in though.



Cory O.
'92 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 501/1000
Heavily modified, barely driven, some assembly required.

Posts: 941 | From: Omaha, Nebraska | Member Since: 03/03/04 | IP: (24.223.245.235) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1065517 posted 05/02/12 11:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
All the big shops like AMS, FP, Buschur, Magnus etc etc use this method of breaking in motors. This is what I recommend click



2001 R34 Nissan Skyline “Eleanor”
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90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara"

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