Fixing up 1292 Page 2 | Galant VR-4 > General VR4 Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum

Re: Fixing up 1292

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers

posted 08/29/20 02:04 PM Remind Me!

So I’m registered and driving around, afrs are dangerous at 9.8-10.2 WOT ( only went wot a few times to check ) knock sensor was going crazy at 5k and lost lots of power. ( stock boost gauge )

Getting tuned on Tuesday hopefully.

My main problem is the shifting, sometimes its not bad , other times it’s absolutely horrid and won’t let me into gear.

I’ve ordered mb555133 master clutch cylinder as that’s the same part number as OEM so hoping that works.

Also ordered a SS clutch line master to slave

I really don’t want to just throw money at the car though, I’ve checked the pedal assembly and that’s rock solid I think, will check the throw length of the slave..

It could be Fork wear or a very worn flywheel and clutch ( worst case scenario )

I guess my best bet is to replace everything before the clutch/flywheel and fork/pivot ball

Also my TOB makes a tapping noise at idle and goes away when clutch is pushed in. That’s a sure sign of a worn TOB? So I need to get into the clutch area anyways correct?

Sorry once again for the dumb questions hopefully they are understandable.

Also should I just quit being a B word and pull the tranny to inspect clutch?

~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

GotInsulin
Member
72/1000

posted 08/31/20 09:30 AM Remind Me!

Transmissions are relatively easy to pull and inspect vs the amount of money and aggravation they can cause by not pulling them in the first place to diag. Put it up, pull the trans, and work backwards through the car that way.

Taylor
782/2000-"Nate Crisman'd"
1735/2000- Rot in pieces.
72/1000- 65k mile survivor with the paint of a 300k mile car.

Posts: 102 | From: Philly burbs | Member Since: 09/26/14 | IP: (2601:48:4302:f98) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers

posted 09/01/20 04:57 AM Remind Me!

Got it, today was the last time driving around.

I took it to the mechanic that did all the work to reseal turbo oil return line, seems that the welds on the actual return line are leaking.

Got tuned at 21psi , speed density , e85, jfc my car has never pulled this hard.

Just ordered new SS clutch line, Clutch, PP, and flywheel will be here on Saturday

~Ordering~ OEM TOB, new pivot ball, new competition clutch fork, new slave cylinder, new master cylinder,
ANYTHING IM MISSING THAT COULD BE CAUSING MY DISENGAGEMENT ISSUES?

Also new flywheel and PP bolts should I just get grade 8 at hardware store? Or cheaper/easier to order online?

Also I called Mitsubishi and they said that the GVr4 uses a different clutch master cylinder than 1g dsms.

OUR MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER PART NUMBER IS MB012660

Opposed to 1g dsm MB555133

Can anyone confirm this? Any searches through the forums seem to indicate we can use a 1g Master cylinder

Also things that concern me are all this talk of shimming the pivot ball and or clutch fork, I shouldn’t have to do any of that getting a new everything correct?

~turbohair~

Edited by yeti (09/01/20 05:01 AM)

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (67.36.2.68) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000

posted 09/01/20 10:47 AM Remind Me!

IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.

You wouldn't even be able to get even remotely close to the flywheel bolts at a hardware store. Also a small difference to note is Grade 8 indicates STD size hardware. The metric equivalent would be 12.9. Either way go OEM/ARP all the way with hardware like that.

ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Edited by CutlassJim (09/01/20 10:50 AM)

Posts: 1624 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (173.14.186.153) | Report this post to a Moderator

JNR
5 star (English Professor) member Has extensive pop up picture book collection
20/1000

posted 09/01/20 02:22 PM Remind Me!

Actually, class 10.9 is similar to Grade 8, fwiw. Class 12.9 is more like a Grade 9 SAE.

Posts: 9775 | From: ca | Member Since: 04/23/04 | IP: (172.119.79.236) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers

posted 09/02/20 03:11 AM Remind Me!

Quoting CutlassJim:

IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.

You wouldn't even be able to get even remotely close to the flywheel bolts at a hardware store. Also a small difference to note is Grade 8 indicates STD size hardware. The metric equivalent would be 12.9. Either way go OEM/ARP all the way with hardware like that.

Sweet thanks a bunch!!!
I’m gonna order 1g master cylinder and oem flywheel/PP bolts, along with everything else that has to do with my disengagement issues

ALSO

My car has had an idle surge for 10 yrs ( probably longer) numerous TB have been swapped out. Along with sensors

I’m pretty sure I checked along time ago and my wiring to my ISC is not behaving correctly ( NOT SURE ON THIS)

Just ordered the fiav block off plate to completely eliminate the ISC as well. Because fork it, I don’t get a steady idle when warm or cold, I have to apply gas to keep car from stalling when cold starting AND it takes 10-15 times of cranking to get it to even start ( ON e85 , about 3-4 times of cranking and letting prime on 91)
{the hard start may be a fuel pressure thing}

But anyways I figure fork it, there’s no way in hell my idle could get worse and if there’s a chance I can get it to idle around 1000 rpm consistently while warm I’ll be beyond stoked.

~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000

posted 09/02/20 10:52 AM Remind Me!

Quoting CutlassJim:

IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.

This is 100% correct. You can use the 1g cylinder, and I have one on my car.

Also concur on the flywheel bolts. Never a place to cheap out.

91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10791 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (76.204.115.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers

posted 09/05/20 09:09 AM Remind Me!

So I see fluid coming out of what seems to be the transfercase output seal, is it as simple as just getting that seal? Or is there a chance it’s my driveshaft yoke?

I just read up on all that fun recall stuff and was about to order the transfer case output seal.

Wondering if I should just order a yoke? Is it hard to replace? Easy to inspect to see if that IS the problem?

~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers

posted 09/06/20 09:21 PM Remind Me!

So the idle is calm when the turbo timer is activated, or did this one time, I removed the turbo timer and still got the idle surge

click

I just ordered the fiav block off plate to eliminate ISC. I think I’m gonna install that and hope for a better idle, and if I don’t get it the problem is purely wiring/electrical then? Cheese and rice.

~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

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