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Fixing up 1292


yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249420 posted 08/02/20 04:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So Iím paying a local DSM mechanic to do the work,

The car has been sitting for 7 years, was a fresh motor before I shut her down.

Main things it needs are the
-Fuel rail bolts drilled out, ( because I broke two of them off)
-oil pan resealed
- shifter bushings / clutch pedal adjustment ( horrible getting in and out of gear)
- Flush all fluids
- boost leak test

Said he could do it for $5-800 I told him I wanna spend up to 2k so hopefully Iíll be up and running soon. Meeting on Tuesday with car. Wish me luck



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2607:fb90:4ee3:3) | Report this post to a Moderator

seizer
Member
583/1000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249421 posted 08/03/20 06:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good luck with getting the vehicle up to par!
I am pretty much in the same boat as yourself... Its been a few years since even being on the forum. I am getting at a good spot income and time wise to start where I left off. Let me know how the fuel rail bolt comes along I have a bolt that snapped also im curious on methods an technique used for removal. Keep us posted I hope to hear positive results.

Posts: 152 | From: Colorado Springs | Member Since: 07/29/08 | IP: (2601:281:c802:f0) | Report this post to a Moderator

andrew4g63
GVR4 have DSM stickers all over them, they are DSMs
1706/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249426 posted 08/06/20 12:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you guys are talking about the fuel rail hold down bolts I have broken a few of them over the years as well. They get over tightened and the threads stretch and snap.
I have always used a left hand drill bit and they normally walk themselves out with just the drill bit starting to drill. If that makes sense.



1706/2000 Hangs out in a corner of the garage
1702/2000 Daily Duties
1185/2000 wannabe rally car
46/1000 going back together
41/1000 Parts car
5/1000 Fixed-Sold!

Posts: 181 | From: Lake Geneva, WI | Member Since: 03/09/06 | IP: (2603:6000:a340:b) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249438 posted 08/10/20 10:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Where in SD are you located?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249454 posted 08/11/20 03:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So the car is almost done, he noticed the fuel filler hose is leaking anyone got one from JNZ available? I just called them and they sold the last one a couple years ago



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249457 posted 08/11/20 05:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just moved to La Mesa 🍻



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249458 posted 08/11/20 05:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
And the fuel rail bolts are drilled out and new ones installed 🍻



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249485 posted 08/14/20 06:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So the shift linkage is blown, anyone got a pair laying around for sale? Found a pair but the guy doesn't know if they are from a 90 or 91

Also got the front mount properly mounted, first time in probably 15 years the front bumper is not sagging.

Sheís up and running, the shift linkage is the only thing stopping me from getting a tune. Let me know if anyone can help 🍻

Also hereís a copy and paste of the repairs being done

Colin Vr4
1. Exaust manifold gasket ( evo oe copper)
2. Exaust manifold hardware kit ( oe)
3. Turbo oil line washers and fittings (maybe return like gasket)
4. Driver side axle ( both boots ripped).
5. Throttle body seals and gaskets
6. Valve cover gasket.
7. Power steering pump intake line leaking (needs o rings seals)
8. Fuel rail broken bolts
9. Engine ,Transmission, T case, rear diff fluids n filter.
10. Turbo intake with filter ( needs 4" to 2.5" reducer to fit 16g t).
11. Fix intercooler placement with crash bean
12. Intercooler pipe couplers.
13. Check fans
14. Fix CAS wiring and connector.
15. FIX harness water neck harness connectors.
16. Clean injectors / new injector seals (possibly upgrade for 1200cc or bigger for better fuel).
17. Shifting bushings
20. Upper radiator hose
21. Fix iddle issue (possibly ICV).
22. Properly mount FPR
23. New vacuum lines.
24. Adjust clutch pedal/ test clutch once car running right.




Also needs front Front brakes can be done later down the road.




~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249487 posted 08/14/20 11:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Do you need the shifter bushings at the lever? Be more specific so you will get good replies.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10791 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249492 posted 08/14/20 05:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's a big list for $800 bucks.

I'm in Vista. Shoot me a PM.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(2600:1012:b14a:5) | Report this post to a Moderator

Eztoril
Junior Member
1450/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249499 posted 08/17/20 03:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Brett

I have seen your work on your builds. I'd let you wrench on my car anytime bro. Can I get in touch if I need you to do any work for me?


Thanks



91 GVR4 1450/2000 - 2.3 Stroker - HKS cams
FP3052 - Spal puller - EVO MAF 3"intake - EVO8 560 injectors - EVO8 ECU tephramod v7 - Walbro 255 - FRH intake mani - EVO3 exhaust mani - 44mm tial wg
EVO3 5spd



Posts: 64 | From: Irvine CA | Member Since: 08/31/16 | IP: (2600:387:8:11::7) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249528 posted 08/23/20 11:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice my Gf lives in Bonsall so I frequent the area often, Iíll be in contact after sheís up and running cause sheís nearly done at this point 🍻 would love to meet any gvr4 owners 🍻

And sorry I meant to upload a picture of the shift linkage but picked new set in the time I realized the picture didnít upload.



UPDATE

Ok so for parts its $393 plus upper hose and engine oil so about $430. If you decide to get the intake from me just add $100. So total $430 parts plus $100 for intake and filter if you decide get it. As far as labor I can do everything for $600. So total $1030 without the intake or $1130 with intake.

+ driver side axle $80
+ intercooler couplers $30
+ lower radiator hose $15
+ coolant flush and coolant $20
+ ICV $20
+ fuel filler hose + metal coupler and clamps $35
+ shift linkage install and shifter $0
+ turbo oil oem bajo bolt and washer. $20
+ boost controller $45
+ new fuel return line and fitting to properly mount Fuel pressure regulator. $20
=$285


Labor axle install ,shift linkage and shifter install, lower rad hose install, fuel filler hose repair and install, boost line install, wideband install, coolant flush, rad fan install wiring, j pipe gasket install, new fuel hose and fitting to install fuel pressure regulator.
= $300.

$1130
+285
+300
=$1715

Right now the BOV is dumping all of the pressure on a BLT so heís gonna put a new flange and different BOV as well

ALSO Iím getting converted to speed density any input on that? Is it a more accurate system then MAF? Anything I should look out for? I have all of the ECMLINK Speed density stuff brand new ready to go from when I bought it 10 hrs ago so itís just getting added when we do the new intake as well

Heís done numerous things for free like tighten lose bolts randomly on the car , also he found the cam caps were only finger tight, I built the bottom rotating assembly on the bottom and gave the head to a machine shop to freshen up/ resurface. I guess they didnít tighten them and I was too young and naive to check them.

One of the tires blew on test drive as well, so gonna be getting some fresh shoes.

Anyone in SOCAL know a reasonably priced place to get Paint done?



~turbohair~


Edited by yeti (08/23/20 11:41 PM)

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249534 posted 08/24/20 10:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Eztoril:

Brett

I have seen your work on your builds. I'd let you wrench on my car anytime bro. Can I get in touch if I need you to do any work for me?


Thanks




Normally, yes. However, I have a deployment upcoming in the near future that will leave me working on jack and shit for quite some time.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(2600:1012:b151:c) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249542 posted 08/26/20 06:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just car the galant back and am getting registration tomorrow, Iím getting locked in and out of gear, the clutch only engages when pushed absolutely all the way to the floor , I feel like Iím going to break the pedal.

Buddy said he adjusted the clutch pedal all the way and just put in new shifter cables, Shifter as I thought that was the problem.

After replacing all shifting components he said the clutch is just most likely really worn and flywheel warped because itís the original

I think I felt it slip in 1st while going up my driveway. Otherwise grabs and pulls when it works.

Also he replaced a ton of gaskets, but when I got there the turbo oil return line was leaking again, I barely ever got that gasket to seal properly. Any tips or tricks for it? Or maybe the screw holes into the oil pan are letting oil out? He said heís gonna pop a new gasket on when we meet up next time cause his buddy does tuning.

Any recommendations on clutches I think Iím going with these


click

click


Any tips or help appreciated.



~turbohair~


Edited by yeti (08/26/20 07:01 AM)

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249543 posted 08/26/20 07:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have a ACT light flywheel on mine and a Exedy 6 puck clutch. Link for the clutch didn't work for me, but I will never go back to a street clutch again in the GVR4. They are too heavy to hold the power IMO and the clutch system struggles to push the heavy clutches in. Puck disk and PP is light, gobs of space on the floor. She's a chatty Cathy, but as long as it's not a daily, it's not a issue. The pro's outweigh the negatives. The noise did go down once broken in, and it's only off power.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998


Edited by gvr4ever (08/26/20 11:30 AM)

Posts: 5974 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (142.79.57.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249545 posted 08/26/20 10:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oil return line can be hard to seal. Just got to make sure all the old gasket is off and smooth. I've carefully used razor blades and fine sand paper in the past. It also helps to add a little gasket sealer to one side of the gasket to help hold it in place so it doesn't move or shift. I'm not great on everything and I hire a mechanic for things I don't want to do, but gaskets I've replaced have lasted a really long time. Just got to have a clean surface for the new gaskets.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 5974 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (142.79.57.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249548 posted 08/26/20 11:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Originally there were sealing washers on the pan end attachment bolts. I think those go missing eventually. Oil can wick through the bolt threads and out under the heads (those small 6mm bolts). If you don't have the you could try a bit of sealant under the head of the bolt when installed.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10791 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
866/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249551 posted 08/26/20 01:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
They sell the bolts with crush washers at ExtremePSI.



Thom
866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

Posts: 900 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Member Since: 09/24/14 | IP: (73.103.0.235) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249554 posted 08/26/20 04:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The links are for the

ACT STREET LIGHT FLYWHEEL

AND

COMPETITION CLUTCH STAGE 3 STREET/STRIP SERIES 2600


I donít mind a hard clutch pedal I just want it to hold my goals are about 350-400whp

So your saying donít go with a flywheel that has street in the name? Sorry for the dumb questions Iíve been out of the game for nearly 10 years and forgot near everything.



Ya I remember back in the day when I used to wrench on this car that sealing that oil return line was an absolute bitch, I remember having to rtv the gasket and 6mm screws to get it to seal properly. Of course I had to remove turbo or something afterwards to break seal and cause leak again.

I remember I had so much trouble with it I actually bought a stainless steel line with AN fittings to try to stop the seal better. Is this an idea that might work? I was 19 when I initially tried it and 27 now so I might be able to work something oot



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249560 posted 08/27/20 05:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Also could the clutch slave and master be the culprit of my clutch not engaging when all the way into the floor?

Or is loss of pedal usage a common problem when the clutches wear out?

I ask because Iíve never been locked in and out of gear in other cars when the clutch is spent, just a lot of slipping.



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249561 posted 08/27/20 08:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had a centerforce clutch were the friction material just came off of the disk and prevented the clutch from releasing. It's probably a rare failure, but it happened to me. Usually a worn clutch slips from being worn, but it is possible to have a clutch failure that prevents shifting.

I would suggesting looking at the slave and master clutch cylinders because that is almost always the cause of a weak clutch pedal that isn't releasing properly. A stainless steel clutch line can help as well.

I don't see a problem with the ACT Flywheel. I personally hated the ACT 2600. Others don't mind it at all. I've read that the ACT 2900 feels lighter, but I don't personally have any experience with it. Maybe others can chime in. I can no longer recommend a centerforce. Good pedal feel, but mine was never abused, never raced, never clutch dropped, and it just feel apart anyway.

Overall ACT clutches are good for the money, but I'd personally probably lean to Exedy. The stage 1 street disk isn't enough for the power, but a stage 2 should be. A 6 puck would definitely be. I mainly like it because of how easy it is to push in. Almost stock like, and I never stalled it, even when I first got in it. Took about a day to get used to the fast release point.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 5974 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (142.79.57.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249562 posted 08/27/20 08:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes, the clutch system condition could be a cause. A year ago my daily driver was having issues with full disengagement. Turned out the master was all gunked up and failing. Not entirely my fault as I have only owned the car a couple years, but looked like the fluid had never been changed in 18 years.

I would bleed it and make sure you are getting full travel. Memory is a little fuzzy, but I think 11 mm of travel for the clutch fork at the slave cylinder is normal.

The ACT Street lite flywheels are nice. I have had them in 2 GVR4s. William (gvr4ever) was agreeing. He just left out the word street I believe.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD


Edited by iceman69510 (08/27/20 08:11 AM)

Posts: 10791 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249569 posted 08/27/20 09:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I lifted the car up and check the slave cylinder, I didnít really know how to check the master other than inspect for leaks, it looks good.

The slave on the other hand was not bolted down all the way and was flexing when the pedal was pushed, bled the system and tightened that bolt now I can actually get in and out of gear but itís still a bit rough. But much better.

Are you saying to measure how far the little arm is pushing the clutch fork? It should be pushing it 11mm?
No less?

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice



~turbohair~

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249571 posted 08/28/20 07:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just thought of something. If you end up changing the clutch. It sounds like you are. Buy a new clutch fork. Don't know if you have an original or not, but they revised the part and made it stronger. The stock one flexed (especially with a heavier clutch) and my original one actually broke in half.

Either way, it's been sitting for 7 years, and the part isn't that much. Having to drop the transmission again for a clutch fork suuuucks.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 5974 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (142.79.57.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

yeti
Nope still sticky fingers


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249573 posted 08/28/20 03:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Indeed good to know the one supplied with clutch is garbage, so order an OEM clutch fork and make sure itís the revised part 🍻.

Just hopped down and checked the master under the dash cause Iím dumb and was looking at the reservoir, itís corroded as shit so Iím gonna replace that in hopes of better shifting before i Drop the cash for a clutch.

This is the same part as OEM correct? Same part number

click



~turbohair~


Edited by yeti (08/29/20 01:37 AM)

Posts: 737 | From: san diego california | Member Since: 10/13/10 | IP: (2600:1700:5020:1) | Report this post to a Moderator


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