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Help me pick a battery and alternator setup!


alansupra94
Excuse the retarded question.
4/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 998636 posted 06/10/11 02:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My battery is pretty much shot. I will be upgrading my battery to maybe a 120amp or 140amp alternator for extra juice. Also my battery will be in the truck connected via 0 gauge wires. The alternator wire will upgraded to a 2 gauge wire as well as the starter.

1. Should I go with a dry cell or wet cell? Deep cycle or normal? Keep in mind I a moving to my truck. I think I should be able to run a wet cell since the trunk isn't really inside my car. I could also easily vent it.
2. Do I what should I change my fuses for the alternator since it is getting larger and a 140amp alternator? Do they make fuses that large in that weird looking fuse type? It might be cheaper for me to get inline fuses or even a breaker.
3. Did you guys change anything else when upgrading your alternator? I plan on making a heat shield to divert hot air away.

Any input is appreciated.



1992 Galant VR4
1996 Toyota Supra TT

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Blown1
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 998686 posted 06/10/11 07:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Alan the 120/140 amp alternator should give you all the charging capacity you need. I would go with a optima red top or similar trunk mounted battery along with the 0 gauge wiring and upgraded starter and alternator wires like you listed. You should use a fuseable link/breaker setup at least a 150amp one.Most important is the grounding make sure you remove paint from where ever your ground is if not ground to the chassis or frame. My current setup is a mitsubishi oem alternator(avoid auto parts store garbage)and starter upgraded wires, optima red top trunk mounted with 0 gauge power and ground to the trunk and 150 and 200amp fuseable links(I have a big system). On my logger even at wot I'm still showing 14volts with pretty much all my accessories running good luck and let me know if you need anything bro........

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alansupra94
Excuse the retarded question.
4/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 998949 posted 06/12/11 01:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I guess I want to ask where did you put those fusible links?

Also I read that the red tops are not deep cycle batteries. Is there a difference?



1992 Galant VR4
1996 Toyota Supra TT

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AnotherNewb
flutterdumper


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 998953 posted 06/12/11 01:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You should use a standard optima and not the deep cycle. Starting batteries are designed for high amp short duration where deep cycles are for low amp long duration. If you were installing a winch, huge stereo and 20 off road lights I would suggest the deep cycle, maybe two, but not for a mostly stock electrical system.



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Blown1
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 998968 posted 06/12/11 04:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
"You should use a standard optima and not the deep cycle. Starting batteries are designed for high amp short duration where deep cycles are for low amp long duration. If you were installing a winch, huge stereo and 20 off road lights I would suggest the deep cycle, maybe two, but not for a mostly stock electrical system"

Dude you are partially correct only lead acid deep cycle batteries exhibit those characteristics you are talking about yes the standard red top has more cca 880/910 vs 620/770 than the yellow top, but the yellow top is also dual purpose and the vr4 does not even require that much cca's.I have had both red and yellow tops in all my cars and never had a problem.I finally bought 2 new redtops(great deal from advanced online)after about 10years of use and abuse in several cars only reason I changed one was that I let it discharge too many times which is a big no no it still held 11-12v.I have power hungry amps in both cars that requires constant power all the time.The red top has 90 min of reserve vs 98 min for the yellowtop anyways so a yellow top is just overkill like you said lol unless you have a big system that you like to play with engine not running both batteries are great and they have a 3year replacement warranty can't beat that.

Alan the fuseable links are in the trunk very close to the battery.One goes to the battery the other for my amps you can also put a fuse block up front for some added security if you like just remember clean grounds are essential.....


not mine
not mine
my car

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 999985 posted 06/16/11 11:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'll add something to this and food for thought. When automakers build cars its as cheap as possible. If they can spot weld in 10 places instead of 50 they will. Daisy chain your grounds back up front. Its fine to ground to the trunk but also ground to the floor, under the dash and then on the firewall, inter fender well then run a ton of grounds up front on the engine and trans. the more the better. Something else about cheap auto makers. Your running a 0 gauge to the trunk. Take a gander at the wire from the alternator to the battery fuse block and also from the fuse block down to the starter. Little huh. Next time your at the junkyard snag a cable or 2 from some junkyard galants or newer vehicles if there long enough. You can run then in parallel from the alternator to the battery fuse block. Same as the daisy chained grounds from the trunk. Just grab what you can from the junkyard, most scrap yards don't even charge you for them unless they think your just collecting copper. Last I hauled off was 3.20 a pound and 2 and 4 gauge wire adds up fast and they know this.


Also for cheap red tops check advance and autozone daily for used batteries. They sell the used ones here for 24.99 plus a core and there's a recycler here that buys batteries and the crack heads will steal them from the auto parts store and sell them for 10 dollars and then he turns around and will sell them for 30 still with the plastic caps on her terminals.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
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adamvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1000204 posted 06/18/11 08:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have been looking to upgrade my alternator and called CSS in Chicago that builds alternators and they told me that i don't really need to upgrade my alternator wire. I'll be putting in a 140 amp alternator and i'm using a JL 1000 amp pushing my W7 and they said it should be fine. They said if i was running like 3-5000 watts that would be different. If that's the case maybe ill add an 8 gauge wire instead. What do u think?

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CutlassJim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1000309 posted 06/18/11 11:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think that they are fucking retarded. I replaced the factory wiring with 4 gauge (Alt to fuse panel and battery and battery to starter) and everything electrically related works better. I can't say the car is faster but it starts faster, the lights are brighter and don't dim and the windows do their job faster. This is with a Autozone reman stock 90amp alt and Honda battery on the subframe. I think batteries in the truck is stupid (let the flaming begin) and hate every setup I've seen for mounting or rewiring the factory battery positive terminal. Sorry for the language and strong opinions but Ive been drinking. Thank god for spell check.

A pic of my relocated battery and rewire that I love to whore out:



This was just to get the car started and out of the garage. More and larger grounds were added and I changed the positive terminal because that one was a cheap POS and rusted 37 seconds after the picture was taken. If I were to do it again I would change some stuff but was happy with this as my first re-wire. Note no factory terminal zip tied or Velcro'd anywhere?

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alansupra94
Excuse the retarded question.
4/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1002143 posted 06/28/11 09:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
@ Cutlass Jim - Well I will try it out. It just would make my life alot easier with a few of the things I am planning to setup. Worst case I will just move it back.

I decided to go with a Yellow Top Optima. I found a local guy selling one for $50 so it seems like a half way decent deal. I guess my question is where exactly do both those fuses go? Do you mean to have one inline and the other where the stock fuses are? Also would you recommend a fuse size if I am running a 160amp alternator?

I plan on replacing the alternator and starter wire with 2 gauge wire that I have lying around. I will have to see where I am going to get crimps from now



1992 Galant VR4
1996 Toyota Supra TT

Posts: 1909 | From: Wayne,NJ | Member Since: 03/03/10 | IP: (192.132.229.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
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912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1002237 posted 06/28/11 06:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would get a 200amp breaker as a fuse. All a fuse is for is so that if the current of the wire ever shoots up it doesn't get too hot and catch fire but with 2ga you should be fine. I would only run 4 too the starter it's plenty big enough. A mistake I see a lot is the alt wire. Don't run it to the battery, run it too the fuse box. That's what needs all the power when the car is running.

I need to go work on my car so in summery

2ga from alt to fuse box, there are actually 2 inputs on it and not that much space so you will need to split to two 4ga probably
2ga from alt case to a good chassis ground
8ga from fusebox to battery. It's all that's needed to charge it
4ga from battery to starter
4ga from battery negative to starter bolt
4ga from battery to chassis ground
And I usually throw 2 or 3 grounds from the engine to the chassis to help with pathing for the sensors


Make sure to clean up all the factory grounds while you're at it, there's not that many of them.


Oh as for the factory battery terminal, it has 3 fuses in it

100 amp for alt, not needed with the breaker
30 amp for ABS pump, not needed with ABS removal
30 amp for power belts, not needed with manual belts or you can relocate it to inside the fuse box in the empty space for the ECS which is what I did. It's super easy.



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I love my crazy mother!!!


Edited by CutlassJim (06/28/11 06:22 PM)

Posts: 1588 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (71.181.51.64) | Report this post to a Moderator

Brunoboy
Jesus Clips
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1003418 posted 07/05/11 06:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Blown1:

"You should use a standard optima and not the deep cycle. Starting batteries are designed for high amp short duration where deep cycles are for low amp long duration. If you were installing a winch, huge stereo and 20 off road lights I would suggest the deep cycle, maybe two, but not for a mostly stock electrical system"

Dude you are partially correct only lead acid deep cycle batteries exhibit those characteristics you are talking about yes the standard red top has more cca 880/910 vs 620/770 than the yellow top, but the yellow top is also dual purpose and the vr4 does not even require that much cca's.I have had both red and yellow tops in all my cars and never had a problem.I finally bought 2 new redtops(great deal from advanced online)after about 10years of use and abuse in several cars only reason I changed one was that I let it discharge too many times which is a big no no it still held 11-12v.I have power hungry amps in both cars that requires constant power all the time.The red top has 90 min of reserve vs 98 min for the yellowtop anyways so a yellow top is just overkill like you said lol unless you have a big system that you like to play with engine not running both batteries are great and they have a 3year replacement warranty can't beat that.

Alan the fuseable links are in the trunk very close to the battery.One goes to the battery the other for my amps you can also put a fuse block up front for some added security if you like just remember clean grounds are essential.....


not mine
not mine
my car




where would I get the first distribution block? and how many amps is each fuse?



556/1000 KG 8/10/13 .... Sold
352/1000 Summit White sold in 2011 and was totaled by new owner......
92 Eclipse Gsx R.I.P
96 Eclipse Gsx Sold

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alansupra94
Excuse the retarded question.
4/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1003507 posted 07/05/11 11:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting CutlassJim:

I would get a 200amp breaker as a fuse. All a fuse is for is so that if the current of the wire ever shoots up it doesn't get too hot and catch fire but with 2ga you should be fine. I would only run 4 too the starter it's plenty big enough. A mistake I see a lot is the alt wire. Don't run it to the battery, run it too the fuse box. That's what needs all the power when the car is running.

I need to go work on my car so in summery

2ga from alt to fuse box, there are actually 2 inputs on it and not that much space so you will need to split to two 4ga probably
2ga from alt case to a good chassis ground
8ga from fusebox to battery. It's all that's needed to charge it
4ga from battery to starter
4ga from battery negative to starter bolt
4ga from battery to chassis ground
And I usually throw 2 or 3 grounds from the engine to the chassis to help with pathing for the sensors


Make sure to clean up all the factory grounds while you're at it, there's not that many of them.


Oh as for the factory battery terminal, it has 3 fuses in it

100 amp for alt, not needed with the breaker
30 amp for ABS pump, not needed with ABS removal
30 amp for power belts, not needed with manual belts or you can relocate it to inside the fuse box in the empty space for the ECS which is what I did. It's super easy.




How did you move it? I mean I plan to put the ABS back in eventually but since I won't be using that alternator fuse, and I can move the manual belts, I figure I can move the ABS too.



1992 Galant VR4
1996 Toyota Supra TT

Posts: 1909 | From: Wayne,NJ | Member Since: 03/03/10 | IP: (173.3.29.99) | Report this post to a Moderator

Brunoboy
Jesus Clips
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1003650 posted 07/06/11 04:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
bump for an answer to the power block question. I need one of those and need to know where to get it? Thanks



556/1000 KG 8/10/13 .... Sold
352/1000 Summit White sold in 2011 and was totaled by new owner......
92 Eclipse Gsx R.I.P
96 Eclipse Gsx Sold

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