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help wireing issue


RalliArtGVR4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931162 posted 09/14/10 05:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
hey everyone. so after working on my galant for the last 5 years off and on.. two different motors and 2 different trans's im finaly trying to get it up and going again. when i started this time the car was getting power but mad volt drop when you turn the key to on and no crank. i re wired my safc 2 removed every aftermarket wire except the sac2 and maft and replaced my starter cable? checked replaced all grounds. now when i go to start the car it gets 12v power and cranks but only for 5-10 sec then pops the ignition fuse. it sounds like it wants to turn over but i have the relay out of my after market pump right now? any suggestions on where to start? thanks mike

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931658 posted 09/15/10 10:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
check to see if the starter or wiring to the starter is getting hot/warm
i've had a starter blow up before and cause a short

MOVE your wiring harness, every thing you can move. The part that runs behind the manifold, the wires near the ecu, everything going into the under hood fuse box and battery... Look at it all as closely as possible for rubbed/worn/pinched areas.

Have you moved any wiring to make room for IC plumbing or anything else?



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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89Mirageman
It's no Mirage, man


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931670 posted 09/15/10 10:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had something very similar happen to one of my dsm's a few years ago after a fuel pump install. Seems I pinched a wire when putting the cover back on causing a short. Every time I tried to start it up it blew a fuse. Might be something to look into.

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RalliArtGVR4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931736 posted 09/16/10 08:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
deffinatly going to check if the starter wire is getting hot. ive taken almost every wire out of the car from the ecu to the fuse block and took the fuse block out. all wires seem to be in good shape and if it wasnt i replaced the wire or re connected it. i also have the dash out right now idk if that could cause it. i was trying to eliminat all possibilities of other issues first. i dont think its because of the fuel pump. its re wired with a relay and its all connected minus the 12v+ to the batterie and the relay is pulled out of the harness. all solonoids are deleted and the original problem was no crank and volt drop. replaced the ground and it cranks. but ill deffinatly see if the starter wire is getting hot, would having the dash out be causeing a short because of it having two clips that go into the fuse box on the driver kickpanel? it seems as if the wireing in the dash is only for lights key reminder and cig lighter. i could be mistaken however

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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
Too Clean
1881/2000
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931795 posted 09/16/10 12:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds like maybe the starter is bad? I'm not sure if they go bad in that manner, though.

If you unhook the wiring to the starter and try and crank the car, would the fuse still pop? I doubt it. That would mean your starter is drawing too much current. I don't think the starter wiring would be the culprit because that shouldn't blow a fuse, it just wouldn't crank as hard.



-Jeff
1881/2000
50/1000

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boostedinaz
Fatty McButterpants
1101/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931804 posted 09/16/10 12:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not a GVR4 but my wifes Jeep had starting problems and would do somethign similar. After going crazy I noticed the ground cable and a kink in it and when I went to replace it I found that most of the wires inside the insulation and had broken and weren't making a good connection. Put a new cable on and everythign was fine.



Michael
The rebuild of 1101

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931809 posted 09/16/10 01:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
On my Talon, I once had a major power wire to a starter go south, (cant remember if it was batt to solenoid, or solenoid to starter) and somehow it started trying to pull all the amps through the ignition trigger wire. It caused symptoms much like what you're experiencing, and caused deformation of the insulation on the ignition wire (black/yellow wire) due to the heat.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931813 posted 09/16/10 01:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting RalliArtGVR4:

i dont think its because of the fuel pump. its re wired with a relay and its all connected minus the 12v+ to the batterie and the relay is pulled out of the harness.




So, is there a rewire/relay in there or what?

Don't assume ANYTHING is not a possibility. I got 1411/2000 car mostly because the PO couldn't figure out things when something went wrong, and was tired of paying people to fix it for him. In my early days with these cars, he brought it to me with a problem much like what you are experiencing. It would crank for a bit, then blow fuses. I went through about 10 fuses, and 8 hours of tracing wire and going crazy, thinking i'd never figure it out. Of course i went for starter wires first, then ignition, ecu, injectors, maf.. you name it. I finally found a circuit that didn't seem to be behaving properly. It was the last one i'd expect to be bad, as it was a rewired fuel pump circuit that had been in place for quite some time.

It turned out, the RELAY that had been put in for the fuel pump had shorted.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

Posts: 3535 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (130.76.32.14) | Report this post to a Moderator

broxma
retard monkey strength
379/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931823 posted 09/16/10 01:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I had the exact same problem. It was a short from one of the wires on my COP ignition shorting through the head. The wire was not fully underneath the plate and got squished when I tightened it down. The wire caused a short which caused all sorts of havoc. Codes for CAS/Crank senor/O2, anything that pulled ground from the block.

Point is, if you are having and codes it's most likely a positive which is grounding out. If no codes, ground loop which is keeping something powered in an over load state. If you have codes, think about where the item referenced by the code wold pull ground from.

just food for though, but I had the exact same problem. I had 12.4V at the battery, no key inserted, insert the key to power the car but not crank it mind you, and voltage dropped to around 7-8. It was the short.

And BTW, mine cranked over a few seconds, would even run for a few, then immediately pop the ignition fuse.

Short, on the motor.

/brox



I am big into recycling though and if your not into sacrifice or burnt offerings, you may want to stick with 93 octane.

/brox


Edited by broxma (09/16/10 01:44 PM)

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