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timing belt


ashley
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928290 posted 09/05/10 08:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
hi all, i recently replaced my timing belt and can not get the timing marks on the cams to line up perfectly, if i put a straight edge a crossed all 4 marks they do not align,its a tooth off no matter what i do... the center marks on the cams line up, as does all other marks, but it will not make a straight line a crossed all 4, is it suppose to? if not should the center marks be above or below the outside marks? (i can not take a pic, but this is what's happening sry for the crude picture)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928302 posted 09/05/10 09:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Did you look at where the timing marks were before removing your old timing belt? If so,I would line them up just as before. My galant had this problem also, the crank pulley mark was about a quarter inch past the lower timing mark. And my cams were about 1/8" off also. But the car ran fine and never had any issues. (at least related to incorrect timing) if you didn't check your timing I'm sure someone on here has a method of figuring out TDC in relation to the valves and such.



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SouthCaliVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928320 posted 09/05/10 10:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
they dont line up perfectly, not even on a brand new engine. it all ends up being off by half a tooth just like you showed. It's one of those things I found irritating myself but have learned to live with.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928419 posted 09/06/10 12:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
uh I use the timing marks on the bottom of the motor. Let me find a picture to show what Im talking about.



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ashley
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928425 posted 09/06/10 01:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yes I agree this is kinda frustrating, At first I thought I might have installed two intake cam gears or two exhaust's, but I put my dial indicator on it today and it is set correctly, (a half tooth off lol), but I might add, its correct on the down side not the top side, (center cam marks are under the line draw accrossed the outside cam marks not above)-just got lucky I guess. I think the only way to fix this is with adjustable cam gears.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928448 posted 09/06/10 03:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The lines are never prefect. It's the way mitsubishi is, generally once everything is installed and you pull the pin on the tensioner, everything will come out ok. Make sure you hand turn the engine over six times and feel for any binding, on the sixth turn line up the crank marks on the timing cover and recheck your cams. The marks should be lined up pretty damn close.

Also make sure your doing this with the dowel pins on the cams facing upwards.



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BKatter
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928451 posted 09/06/10 03:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've always made sure the two inner marks line up perfectly as well as the crank and oil pump sprockets.

Just an FYI if you ever have cam gears off, the intake and exhaust gears are the same. No need to worry about mixing them up.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928488 posted 09/06/10 06:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The FSM's procedure has you make sure the dowel pins on the cam gears are pointing up, that way you know you have the 2 correct timing marks on the inside for cylinder 1 TDC.

If the timing marks on the cam gears line up on the inside, as well as the oil pump (only needed if you have a BS in there) and crankshaft, then you are good to go. I just did my t-belt a couple days ago and I got it first try. Of course, the jay racing timing belt tools helped a lot



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 928733 posted 09/07/10 03:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
If you guys are trying to line up all 4 marks on the 2 gears, you're doing too much work. The outter marks are there so that IF the exhaust and intake gears WERE switched, you'd still have accurate inner marks to go off of. You're supposed to line your straight edge up with the mating line of the head and block, and line the INNER marks up on the cam gears with that, with the dowels on the top.

Also take note that each time the head is resurfaced, it is screwing with the head between the crank and the horizontal line between the axis of the cam gears. This means that when everything is lined up "correctly", your crank is actually going to show that it is off a little bit.



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