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Weird vibration and whirling/humming noise only under decel? HELP!


cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890238 posted 04/14/10 01:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok, under decel my car make a whirling/humming noise and vibration under decel, mostly in 4th/5th gear. But once I press in the clutch the noise and vibration both go away instantly. Its coming from the backseats/rearend and definetly from the drivetrain. Anyone have experiance with this?

Quick question, what drivetrain parts are interchangle between the awd 1g and galant. Driveline parts interchangable?

Any help would be appreacaited. Thanks.



GVR4 1242/2000

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mooserage Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890255 posted 04/14/10 01:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay, lots of info to give you here. Almost all of your answers can be found by searching, but I will help out a bit. It sounds like your rear differential is having some problems. This may be that it just needs some shimming, but its probably a good idea to get a new/good used one and just replace it. If your problem gets any worse I highly recommend not driving the car, as the bad diff or drivetrain part can lock up (this is VERY dangerous) and is known to happen on these cars at 50-80 mph (ask me how I know...).

As for what is interchangeable, 1G DSM with a manual transmission has the same ratios and is therefore interchangeable. (this should be confirmed by searching or a knowledgeable member)
Options:
-3 bolt open diff (Stock on VR4, direct bolt on)
-3 bolt viscous lsd (Needs the lsd axles, otherwise direct bolt on with axle replacement)
-4 bolt viscous lsd (Needs the 4 bolt axles and cups)

All of these will work, however, if you want to use the 3 bolt lsd or 4 bolt lsd you need the axles as well because they are all different from each other. For the four bolt you will also need the cups.

If its not the rear diff, and it may not be, hopefully someone can help you out. I'm sure we will get other members in here to confirm my info and hopefully give some insight on how to check to ensure it is your rear diff that is the problem. Thanks and good luck.
-shamus



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890257 posted 04/14/10 02:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thank you very much for the info, I apprecaite it. I guess I'll start looking around for a rear diff and start there.



GVR4 1242/2000

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mooserage Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890258 posted 04/14/10 02:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah its really not a bad idea to change it if you think that's the area of the problem. Stock open rear diffs are pretty common and very cheap. Good luck.



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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890262 posted 04/14/10 02:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Does it still have working 4 wheel steering? and/or the dif w/ pump attached?



Brian L.
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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890264 posted 04/14/10 02:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yea, car is pretty much all stock. aws and pump all still intact.



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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890268 posted 04/14/10 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The 4ws pump is driven off the dif. If you get a dsm dif, and want to retain 4ws you'll need to swap everything into the galant housing.

At that point it's worth it to actually investigate the issue, instead of just throwing parts at it. Potentially cheaper too.

start with checking fluid levels in trans, t-case, and rear dif. Maybe drain the fluid and check for any foreign objects that could indicate a problem (metal particles, etc..). If everything checks out, and you feel comefortable pull the cover to the rear dif and inspect it. I'll bet the fsm has instructions for performing an inspection.



Brian L.
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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890270 posted 04/14/10 02:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Damn, fluid was going to be my next step. I already did the trans, i'll be doing the tcase and rear dif soon. I doubt that its just the fluid if anything it will only mask the problem and wont be a fix.



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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890272 posted 04/14/10 02:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Checking fluid is just a step in figuring out what's wrong, not a fix.



Brian L.
91 Galant VR-4 #665/2000

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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890275 posted 04/14/10 02:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yea I understand was just saying. Would have like to get to it today, but it just snowed a good 5 inches. blah. As soon as I can ill pull the cover off and inspect it, once I read up on what im looking for. Anymore input would be appreicated, thanks again.


Edited by cupajoe (04/14/10 03:06 PM)

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broxma
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890291 posted 04/14/10 04:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The exact location of the noise may be masked by vibration and acoustics through the body of the car, that is to say, what sounds like it is behind you may be in front. Usually having a secondary receiver(Person) listening away from the car(Going down the road) will pin point the source better than you inside the car, where acoustics are terrible at best.

If pressing the clutch makes it go away, I'd check the part most likely to be at fault near the clutch first and work away from that point. In this case, that would be the throwout bearing.

/brox



I am big into recycling though and if your not into sacrifice or burnt offerings, you may want to stick with 93 octane.

/brox

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brisvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890414 posted 04/14/10 11:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Exactly what clutch are you using?
Once you change from a clutch disc that is able to absorb the harmonics from the crankshaft to a more aggressive type of disc your driveline noise will increase.
I run a QM twin plate clutch and my car sounds like it is going to explode on hard decel.
That is one more thing for you to consider.



Tim
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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890588 posted 04/15/10 01:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just bought the car >month ago, it has a Act 2100 in it. Another idea, could a possible bad u-joint cause this?



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890624 posted 04/15/10 04:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok I changed the rear diff and tcase fluid and no metal or anything unusual. The tcase fluid was very dark in color and diff fluid looks much fresher. While I was under there I checked on u joints and all checked good.



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890686 posted 04/15/10 07:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok well I think th fluid did it. I have only drove about 20 miles so far but much smoother and Noe noises or vibrations. Idk if the tcase fluid as just that broken down and it was binding or what. But we will see how long t last. Any ideas?



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mooserage Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890688 posted 04/15/10 07:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If it was the t-case, you may consider rebuilding or getting a newer one pretty soon. That's just what I would do, I've had one lock up and I never want it to happen again. Glad to see it helped though!
-shamus



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890726 posted 04/15/10 10:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for all the help. I actually have two good dsm tcases in the garage so I'm set, pretty sure there the same ratio.



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Edited by cupajoe (04/15/10 10:22 PM)

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mooserage Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890751 posted 04/16/10 01:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just remember, depending on the year it may have 22 or 23 teeth for the input shaft, so if you switch them just count the teeth. A sharpy helps with that too



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890754 posted 04/16/10 01:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yea hopefully the I need a 23 spline, if I remember corectly that's what my spares are.



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MellowVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890780 posted 04/16/10 07:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
you know i have this exact same problem , trying to pin point out. I am changing out my diff to an lsd so maybe that will get rid of the vibrations at deceleration? all i know is, it sounds horrible and feels horrible. defently it sounds like its coming from my rear but then again it sounds like its coming from the front.



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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890916 posted 04/16/10 04:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Let me know if swapping out the rear diff works out for you. Have you already tryed changing the fluid?



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MellowVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890953 posted 04/16/10 06:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I changed it about 8 months ago or something like that. It seems like it gets worse everyday, i try listening for it while im driving but it sounds like its in the rear but then sounds like the front aswell, maybe im going crazy. I thought it was my driveshaft support bearings so i replaced them aswell as the u-joints. So next on my list was rear subframe bushings and diff. See how that goes.



89 RAIDER V6 5speed
90 GALANT GSX SOLD
91 372/2000 making it pretty again
91 578/2000 sold
92 417/1000 DIED
87 4RUNNER LS400 SWAP SOLD:(

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mooserage Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 891006 posted 04/16/10 10:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah the entire drivetrain will resonate (right word?) the sound across all the parts making it really hard to pinpoint.
-shamus



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 981219 posted 03/31/11 12:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^^^ I'm guessing that's what happening with 1886. I hear this resonating humming/howling sound cruising around 55-65mph around 32-3350rpm. The sound is present when coasting, but nothing on acceleration/deceleration. With what I've been learning in my auto tech program I hypothesized that the pinion gear might not be seated right, either it sits too high or too low or too deep or too shallow on the ring gear (yes the sound is resonating from the rear of the car). Is this normal on the GVR4's with the 4ws still functioning?

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cupajoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 981679 posted 04/02/11 10:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Coming back from the dead. Lol. I'm not sure but mine went away when I changed my drivetrain fluids.



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