The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Motor build Question

The_Big_Weave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
390
Location
Rapid City, SD
I melted a piston a while back and now I need to rebuild. I have a set of eagle rods and I am looking to go with wiseco stock bore pistons.
Would have any problems with this if I just honed the cyl. and put pistons in?
Would it just be easier to go stock with this route?
Do I have to balance the crank with everything? dont really have a shop so I was hoping to just put the pistons in with out having to pull the crank.

And I also have a balance shaft removal kit, can I put this in with out taking out the oil pump out?
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I would see how the bores are first and take it from there.

You may have to go 20 thou over pistons (minimum) depending on the condition of the block.

It really all depends on your budget and goals.
It won't hurt to do all the stuff you mentioned, but you could live without them.

You have to pull apart the oil pump housing to put the balance shaft stub in and block off the bearings..
 

The_Big_Weave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
390
Location
Rapid City, SD
Do you have to relube the oil pump with grease when you put it back together? I looked at the bores and there are no scratches or gouges. They just need to be honed i think. Dont have much for a budget tho... So the best I can do is not pull it, and bore it.
 

ApexHunter

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
1,992
Location
Marysville, WA
A visual inspection of the bores is a good start, but it is also a good idea to do some measuring. The block can look good but it's hard to see wear sometimes. Bare minimum, measure each bore top(about 0.5" from the deck), center, and bottom in four places- 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock. You may find that that the bores are somewhat elliptical due to the greater wear on the sides from thrust load, and also more wear at the top than at the bottom. If the the bores are more than 0.0011" larger in diameter than stock (top bottom, and center) and/or more than 0.0004" out of round going 0.020" over might not be a bad idea even though boring will cost you some money, because in the end you'll have an engine that works better longer.

As far as honing goes, that can take a couple thousandths off so you may not want to go there. If the bores measure up good, you could just hit them with a flex hone and that should be fine to just freshen them up a bit without taking too much material off.
 

The_Big_Weave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
390
Location
Rapid City, SD
I am not expecting the car to run for 100k just hoping to get a couple summers of fun out of it. driving it maybe 5k a year.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top