what are people doing about Rebuilds?

[Brunoboy]

hey guys, well the rest of you Who have seen my other post, Im starting to think I might as well rebuild my motor, so many problems I should do something with it. I do have a Spare Block and Head off a JDM vr4 that I bought off a member here awhile back. The shop near my house is the one who looked it over, and said everything looked good, but I am still going to update the rod bearings and main bearings with ARP, and ARP headstuds and a Mitsubishi MLS headgasket. I have a Gates timing belt as well. The head I have I let my friend redue in class but I need to send it to a machine shop since its not seating properly. I also have BC valve springs and retainers in it, and I know that I should get cams, while its being rebuilt anyways. I have another Intake Mani already that I will clean up and I have my DSM GT highflow exhaust mani with MHI B16g and 2g o2 housing. I will slap on and just got my Evo Injectors yesterday for a good deal(gotta have them flow tested and cleaned). I also will be installing my 2g maf. and I do have my SAFC already hooked up. Does this sound good to start? Anyways that was way off topic. I was going to ask about What people think about Topline gaskets and parts? Or Nippon Racing gaskets and parts? I know that Nippon and Mitsu are the same (or so I have heard all over Tuners). Anyone with Experience with it? and Yes I am a poor College student and this build will take atleast 2 months to get her done. But everyone please chime in.
-Shane

 

[TylerAdamson]

Save yourself in the long run and buy Mitsu gaskets/timing components. I've heard about too many failures with Topline parts to stay away from them. Also with the ARP main studs you'll have to get the main bearing surfaces align honed to ensure that they are within spec once the main caps are bolted down.

 

[Rausch]

My $.02 Topline et-al are good for the less stressed components. I have used the Parts dinosaur gasket kits for rebuilds, save the headgaskets for the Mitsu. I'd go OEM for the really important parts though- water pump, timing components (tensioner, pulleys etc) things that could truly ruin your engine if they fail.

The majority of the seals and such have always held up fine.

 

[Brunoboy]

What about Nippon Racing (only on ebay) rebuild kits. The reason I ask, is people from tuners who have ordered Mitsubishi Pistons from Big name sites get pistons with Nippon racing Part numbers. and they all say Nippon is the same as the OEM parts.
-Shane

 

[boostedinaz]

IMO why even chance it? Form something like a motor that is never a quick fix why take the chance on lesser components? When I rebuilt my motor I used all genuine Mitsu parts and didn't spend much more than people using topline parts.

 

[Rausch]

Quoting brunoboy:
What about Nippon Racing (only on ebay) rebuild kits. The reason I ask, is people from tuners who have ordered Mitsubishi Pistons from Big name sites get pistons with Nippon racing Part numbers. and they all say Nippon is the same as the OEM parts.
-Shane

That was what the et al meant. Topline, Nippon, etc.

 

[Brunoboy]

I will use Mitsu oem parts for the main things IE timing components, oil pump, water pump MLS Head Gasket, but for the rest of the gaskets do you guys think The ones on Parts dinosaur is fine then?
-Shane

 

[CarRacer]

I used the PD ones in my car except the headgasket and they are working fine. The old guy who runs it is super fast on shipping and has great customer service. I'd recommend him to anyone. His 3g style lifters are at a great price too. I'd look into those if you don't already have them.

 

[fivestardsm]

I used these 3G lifters. Super seller to deal with also.

3G lifters on e-bay

 

[Brunoboy]

thanks for that, I forgot all about revised lifters aha.
-Shane

 

How much boost are you thinking of running on this motor? Is the MLS really necessary? I'm not a big fan of them, since I had overheating issues with mine, and went back to a stock Mitsu gasket. I've had 2 customers so far this year with an MLS and the same issue of leakage.
I say just buy the complete Mitsu gasket set from JNZ and use it.

 

[Brunoboy]

I do want to run 15 safely but I would like room to grow with boost pressure. Did you use the Mitsubishi mls? Or another brand?

 

[JSchleim18]

I've heard the regular composite OEM Mitsu head gasket can handle upwards of 25 psi with some ARP head studs.

 

That's what I did. All ARP hardware, stock Mitsu (non-MLS) head gasket. Several years of 23+ psi boosting with no issues.

 

As stated the regular gasket with arp bolts will be more than enough for your goals.

 

[Brunoboy]

thanks for the replies, so just get a oem gasket set and use the stock HG with all arp stuff? I just thought that it would be best to get a mls because its stronger.
-Shane

 

[Brunoboy]

oh and does Napa Auto Parts carry rebuild kits?
-Shane

 

Quoting brunoboy:
thanks for the replies, so just get a oem gasket set and use the stock HG with all arp stuff? I just thought that it would be best to get a mls because its stronger.
-Shane


An MLS *is* stronger and it *is* reuseable, but it is more difficult to get it to seal well, IMHO. For anything up to 25psi with ARP hardware I still say use a stock Mitsu.

 

[Brunoboy]

im only aiming for 350AWHP or around that area. the long block I picked up has like 60km on it, so however that goes in US mileage. Also I remember the shop who checked it out said the bottom end still looked like new main bearings and rod bearings, Maybe just change all the gaskets on the motor? and leave the bottom end with the parts in it, IE: Pistons and rings. but upgrade to ARP hardware and a OEM HG to seal? 550cc injectors a evo IX pump,jons FMIC kit, and a B16g MHI turbo that I bought here,BC valve springs and retainers, Maybe get 264/272 cams?, but I might as well rebuild that too, are turbo rebuilds able to be done at home??? or do I have to send it out? Thanks
-Shane

 

If you haven't purchased injectors yet, at a minimum I would pick up a used set of EVO 560cc injectors. They typically flow >585cc, are factory quality, have less deadtime than the stockers, and can be found very cheap.
I would also recommend holding off on cams. The main purpose of cams is to push the HP peak to higher rpm's, which typically also requires a sheetmetal intake and a much bigger turbo to get the full benefit. The factory cams are actually quite good and can make a lot of power, so I would save them to one of the last upgrades you make. The FMIC and other restrictions, like the MAS, exhaust manifold, O2 housing, and exhaust system, should come first. I agree with your idea of leaving the bottom end alone if it is clean and low mileage.