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ETS FMIC install + JDM bumper bracket problems


CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 432648 posted 01/21/07 09:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Grrr...this project is beginning to try my patience. I'll do a complete writeup later, but right now I need some help with figuring out how the hell to use the JDM front bumper brackets.

I'm in the process of installing the ETS front mount intercooler.





My current issue is trying to figure out how these goddam JDM bumper brackets are supposed to be used.





The previous owner had attached it like this:





There is a support on each side of the bumper, just inboard of the foglight cutouts. These should each attach to the outside of the framerails:



BUT, take a look at the brackets, and the spots where they're supposed to attach to the car:



The brackets bolt to the bumper in a horizontal position, meaning the holes that would be used to mount the bumper to the car are one in front of the other. But as you can see, the mounts on the framerails are verticle, one above and slightly offset from the other.

Any advice from those who've got this bumper and the brackets? I may have to juryrig it again with Home Depot brackets and self-tapping screws, but I'd like to avoid that method if possible.

My car is also missing the stock bumper support, as you can tell from the pictures. Is there something on that onto which the JDM bumper bolts? It's made mounting the FMIC difficult, requiring many trips to and from HD Racing for pieces to hold it up/on tightly.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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Mr_HYDE
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 432654 posted 01/21/07 09:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hope this helps.....

The top two pictures are from a JDM car. They have an "L" bracket instead of the bigger US one that we just removed.
The bottom left pic is the JDM car with the "L" bracket removed.
The bottom right pic is the USDM car with the US bracket removed.
Notice the Location of the bracket bolt holes on both cars. They are different, but are marked on the car. The holes (marked in RED) on the US side need to be drilled out for the JDM bracket.

Installing a JDM bumper




Here are the holes on the US car Drilled out. Left is before, right is after.



Here's the JDM bumper bracket you need for the install. You can make your own easily if you can get the measurements precise, but the OEM one is fold-gusseted for strength.



I put a 5/16 bolt and nut through the holes to secure the bracket onto the US chassis. Do the same on the other side, and now you're ready to slide the JDM bumper on.





Edited by Mr_HYDE (01/21/07 10:02 AM)

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 432676 posted 01/21/07 11:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's exactly what I needed. Thank you! Off to HD for some bolts while the drill is charging



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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Mr_HYDE
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 432707 posted 01/21/07 12:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
if you dont have the brackets like this........




HD has angle iron in their Hardware aisle.


Good luck!!


G-

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 432761 posted 01/21/07 04:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The correct JDM brackets were used, however the entire bumper sits 1/2" lower than it should, so there's a gap beneath the thin piece below the headlights.

It was a pain in the ass of a job, between rewiring some stuff, fitting the hardpipes, making some brackets for the front mount, cutting the bottom of the plastic bumper a bit, and getting the Forge valve to fit without getting whacked by the radiator fan blades. It needs some treaking, more cutting, and a pressure test.

I took it for a half hour drive, and the Forge valve took a few boost runs to start functioning smoothly. There's also a pretty loud leak somewhere. The neck of my turbo is in rough shape, and may be the source. Sounds a bit like when you blow a blade of grass. The EVO3 and a bunch of other exhaust stuff are going in next weekend, so I'm going to leave it like it is for the week and carry tools just in case


Edited by CP (01/22/07 06:48 AM)

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433000 posted 01/22/07 06:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Any hints on how to tighten the TB bolt on the lower right as you look at it? The pipe bends very soon after the flange, and I can't get anything in there to tighten the 4th bolt more than finger tight. There's some sensor or part of the manifold underneath, and the intake manifold bracket on the side. Retarded design and something else that I'd change



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433420 posted 01/22/07 08:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Before with JDM bumper removed (nice snow tires):





Pisser bolt for the TB. I can't tighten it:

















Notice the gap above the bumper:



The bottom of the JDM bumper had to be trimmed, since it contacted the bottom of the intercooler:



My Forge BPV comes REAL close the the radiator fan blades, so a Slimline fan is in my near future. ETS needs to move the BPV flange up the pipe a few inches:





I'm playing with the valve cover venting:



The bend off the turbo seam needed some die grinder attention:




-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433526 posted 01/23/07 07:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gonna do a boost leak test tonight, as my mid and high trims are pegged at 81% and it sounds like there's a flock of pissed off little birdies under the hood



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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Polish
Dr. Pilosh Haagenscodyberger


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433534 posted 01/23/07 07:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well if you didn't tighten that one TB bolt I'd say that might be it. Did you try a stubby gear wrench?

What are those red things behind the bumper cover? Horns?



My car site
Old GVR4 #1186/2000

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433561 posted 01/23/07 08:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No, a wrench can't really fit around the nut due to cleareance issues, whether it's a stubby or not.

Yeah, those orange things are my sucky $60 Hella horns.


Edited by CP (01/23/07 08:46 AM)

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crankwalk
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433564 posted 01/23/07 08:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks like you made the best of the fitment issues sans the tb nut.

looks good!

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433569 posted 01/23/07 08:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks. The intercooler isn't exactly centered, but that's the way it bolted up. The pipe coming down next to the radiator dictated where the intercooler was mounted, left to right and height. I don't care, as it can barely be seen behind the plasti-dipped gutter mesh and the black misted paintjob.

The car runs like shit with this boost leak. I'm not sure how I'm going to get that bolt tight. I'm going to call ETS later today and ask how they tightened it on the test car.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

Posts: 8936 | From: West Simsbury, CT | Member Since: 08/30/04 | IP: (198.105.0.129) | Report this post to a Moderator

Polish
Dr. Pilosh Haagenscodyberger


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433572 posted 01/23/07 08:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Short socket plus swivel adaptor or they switched to an allen head bolt would be my other guess.



My car site
Old GVR4 #1186/2000

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BluFalcon
Fantastic Parts Seller


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433624 posted 01/23/07 09:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I pulled the top/rear stud out of the intake manifold and put it in the forward/lower hole that you're having the problem with. It was a tight fit, but I managed to get a 12mm Gear Wrench on the nut without any real problems.



Ed
93 Eagle Talon TSi/AWD
92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT
06 Mitsubishi Raider V8 DuroCross
521/1000
"SOLD"




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3Diamond
Hampster Powered and In the "Private" clan !


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433635 posted 01/23/07 10:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks good; soooo how loud are those shinyyy red horns? Do you have them on a separate relay, or are they still stock wired?



Stupidity should be Painful ! http://dsmetc.com/forum/images/smilies/rant.gif

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433638 posted 01/23/07 10:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The horns suck, and aren't all that loud, but the horns are not what this thread is about. I'd trade them for our Jetta's stock horns any day. I did use a separate relay for them, and wired it to the button in the center of my Momo steering wheel.

I like the stud approach for the loose TB bolt.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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wildeclipse2000
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433642 posted 01/23/07 10:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cy all you have to do is just take that bracket from the TB to the CAS, and toss it in the trash! It is just a peice of heavy metal that gets tossed when you have a SMIM anyway. Then just get a shorter bolt, and you will have no clearance issues.

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Paul Mc369
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433652 posted 01/23/07 10:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:





First, while in my position, my car never had nor have I ever seen a bracket like this. I always wondered why two of TB the bolts had spacer nuts on them.

Second, I loosened all four bolts to there loosest point. Then I pulled the IC pipe away from the TB, so there was tension on all the bolts. This gave me room to slip a box end wrench on. Without that bracket I was able to tighten the thing all the way down.


Edited by turbogalant (01/29/07 03:57 PM)

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433654 posted 01/23/07 11:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks guys. I think I'll be able to get it now. I haven't been working on cars long enough to know all the little tricks.

Josh: I've already removed the intake manifold bracket on the back/bottom. If I throw this one out too, do I need to worry about the manifold snapping under its own weight?



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

Posts: 8936 | From: West Simsbury, CT | Member Since: 08/30/04 | IP: (198.105.0.129) | Report this post to a Moderator

Polish
Dr. Pilosh Haagenscodyberger


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433700 posted 01/23/07 12:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No it will be fine. You will need to either cut the ears off that bracket (as I did, and used them as the spacers) or get some beefy spacers. If not the bolts will bottom out unless you buy shorter ones.



My car site
Old GVR4 #1186/2000


Edited by Polish (01/23/07 12:08 PM)

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433724 posted 01/23/07 12:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was just going to use a bunch of washers, or a piece of thin pipe cut to the thickness of the bracket, or an appropriately sized stud and nut



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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ExtremeTurbo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 433836 posted 01/23/07 04:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
CP,

This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.

On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed. We will be doing an install soon for the instructions that we will be releasing in the future. Currently we do not provide a shorter bolt with the kit, but in future kits this bolt will be included. We do recommend purchasing a new, shorter bolt and removing the support bracket. We don't expect a replacement bolt to be too expensive from a local hardware store, but if you would like reimbursement for it, feel free to PM us.

As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.

Here is a picture with our intake kit.



What is that last picture of? The one where the seam off the bend of the turbo needed some die grinder attention. We debur all the piping where the welds may cause sharp points or edges within the flanges and pipes where they are welded. If this is the case it will be an issue that we will have revisit here at our shop.

Joe Schesso
Extreme Turbo Systems

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JohnG
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 434000 posted 01/24/07 12:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So you did the boost leak test and it indeed wound up being because of that 1 untightened bolt at the TB? Or did you find leaks elsewhere?

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 434095 posted 01/24/07 08:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.




Joe, thanks for the post. We welcome any vendor participation in our little community. You'll find that your presence on the board will eventually help you sell more product, and with constructive feedback, a better product.

Quote:

On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed.




I removed the bracket and cut off the three ends to re-use as spacers at their stock locations. I've got that lower right bolt finger-tight now, but it's impossible to get a wrench on it. There's not enough room around the head of the bolt to even get a wrench head to slide onto it. That aluminum colored piece (below the bolt) with the coolant lines running to it is in the way; I think it's the FIAV. I can't get a socket to it either because the piping prevents a good straight shot to the bolt head. Like I said before, a little more piping running straight off the TB would probably help. I'm going to try to locate a shorter bolt, toss the bracket that I'm using as a spacer and see if that helps with access to the head of the bolt.

Quote:

As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.




I think I'm going to take you up on this offer Joe. I'll contact you off-list about it. Most of us with cars in this state of modification (probably half the members on the board) have moved the battery to the trunk and are taking cool air from behind the passenger headlight using some sort of simple 1G intake pipe. Most of us run recirc too, just like stock. Even if I had my stock BPV mounted on your flange, it's still too close to being INSIDE the fan shroud. Just an inch or two farther up the pipe would be perfect. You should consider offering an intake pipe that allows the MAS to be positioned behind the headlight. The following picture illustrates the typical MAS placement in a modified GVR4:



Quote:

What is that last picture of?




The last picture is of the inside of the pipe off the turbo, where it expands to a larger diameter and then bends to run parallel to the radiator. There was some welding rod on the inside at the seam. I'm just anal and like my airflow path to be as smooth as possible. This is why I also ground down the TB flange a bit where there was a slight lip remaining, though I could see where you guys had already hit the area with a grinder.

All in all, Joe, I'm very pleased with the kit. The piping is very nice in stainless, and it fits well for the most part. It just needs to be tweaked a little here and there. I sent an email to you all yesterday with my suggestions to make it a slightly better fitting kit. Take or leave any/all of my comments.

I appreciate you as a new member of our community Joe

As far as the leak, it's at the turbo neck. The flange on my aging 14b is in rough shape and is leaking royally. Brand new EVO3 is going in this weekend, so I'm not going to bother fixing the leak.


Edited by CP (01/24/07 08:38 AM)

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wildeclipse2000
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 434132 posted 01/24/07 09:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Cy don't use the ends as spacers, that is going to change nothing. It will be as though the bracket is still there. You need to either get shorter studs with the corret size nut, or shorter bolts like I said above.

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