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Another successful Dave Brode IC installation


keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213959 posted 05/03/05 10:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I finally tackled the Dave Brode complete installation this weekend, but I wasn't sure where to start, as the documentation is rather limited. So, I thought I'd take some pictures as I went, to help the next guy. My first question was WHERE/HOW to mount the IC?? It seems that Dave is confused himself, because he emailed me that he had maybe installed the one bracket wrong. It turned out that he had installed BOTH brackets BACKWARDS, and on the WRONG SIDE! I know I took some pictures of the IC mounted, but they've disappeared from my camera! But, on this picture, you can sort of see that bracket through the hole in the bumper.

The brackets should face back, up, and out to the sides, so that they can be attached to the ends of the frame rails that protrude from the front of the radiator support. This is the same, rectangular protrusion that the stud sticks out of that the 14mm nuts go unto to hold the bumper on. I mounted the brackets about 1/4" below the top of that protrusion, as I didn't want the IC to be pushing down on the bottom of the bumper cover, as my RRE one does on #1886. However. I cut it REALLY close, as I could barely slide the bumper on later. I had to loosen all the bracket bolts, and drop it down as far as it would go, and it just fit. As you can see in the picture above, there is <1/4" between the top of the IC and the top bumper support. Dave supplies 6 3/16" poprivets to fasten it, and let me tell you: 3/16" poprivets are HARD to install with a hand/manual poprivet tool! It takes alot of power to snap the stems off of them, but, when finished, it makes for a VERY sturdy installation.
There is also another mounting tab that is in the middle of the IC, which goes where the PS cooler lines are normally bolted on. You have to bend the PS lines back out of the way a little, so they dont rub, remove the clamp, and then drill a hole in the bracket for the original 12mm bolt to go back in. As I said, it is VERY STURDY. The IC becomes a very substantial part of the front end of the car, IMHO.
But: let me start at the beginning:

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213965 posted 05/03/05 11:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks good, Jeff! Let us know how it works when you start driving it.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213966 posted 05/03/05 11:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I first made some marks with a magic marker by holding the bumper up to where it should be installed. A second person to help steady the bumper would REALLY help.

Then, using my handy-dandy Harbor Freight angle grinder, I started cutting off what had to be removed. I wanted to leave the complete, boxed section at the top for some strength, and I also wanted to leave the lower bumpercover-support strip, so that the cover doesn't sag down.

You also need to completely remove those metal dividers in the ends of the bumper, seen here:

But, missing here:

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Sam
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213968 posted 05/03/05 11:15 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Very nice Jeff
Let us know how it feels in performcance gains
Nice shoes btw


Edited by Sam (05/03/05 12:11 PM)

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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213969 posted 05/03/05 11:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Actually, this is a better picture here, showing the missing divider you need to cut out, as well as the cut you need to make straight back from the front of the bumper underneath:

I also had to notch the top of the bumper to allow the IC brackets to slide through a gap:

Here is what it looks like when dropped back into the bumper cover:

As you can see, I actually removed alot more than I had to, but I was sort of working in the dark here. Depending upon how much you plan to open up the bumpercover grill, you may want to remove more or less material than I did.
I also could have left more depth to the front brace, which supports the bumper cover:

As you can see, there's a healthy 1" gap there between the brace and the IC. You could leave more material if you wanted it stronger structurally.Here's one last view from the righthand side of the installed bare bumper.


Edited by keydiver (05/03/05 11:24 AM)

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213996 posted 05/03/05 12:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hah, I like the broken off bolts showing in the license plate mounting bracket tabs. Mine were like that too. I ground those tabs off when I modded my bumper (and repainted it). No more front plate for me.



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 213998 posted 05/03/05 12:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

(and repainted it).



HEY! Are you making fun of #880's rusty bumper??
It was originally a Maine car, so rust is in its blood I think. Actually though, I've snapped off alot less bolts than I expected. I only lost 2 or 3 nuts/studs removing the bumper cover. I soaked them with PB Blaster, and then used a battery-powered impact to spins them off.
The plate bolts were like that when I bought the car, so the PO must have done it. I just hope the next owner doesn't need a front plate!

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 214003 posted 05/03/05 12:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Who, me? Ahh, no Jeff, I'd uh... never do that! Not to a nice guy like you. No sir.

I'll have to post pics sometime of how I modded my front. Not quite as extensive a removal. Just a Starquest IC though.


Edited by iceman69510 (05/03/05 12:59 PM)

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 214054 posted 05/03/05 04:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice. Glad to see it worked out. Now find those photos of the the bumper cover installed & post them.

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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 215209 posted 05/06/05 09:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Looks good, Jeff! Let us know how it works when you start driving it.




I've always maintained that an upgraded intercooler is one of the FIRST upgrades any GVR-4 owner should do, and my impressions from driving #880 now just confirm that all the more. The car is MUCH more responsive to throttle input, AND REALLY gets up and goes now, even with stock boost! Believe me, you will be MUCH happier with your car doing this mod than you would be with a bigger turbo, MAFT, injectors, etc. DO THIS FIRST!
Here's a picture under the hood. The pipes fit great, following the stock route with no issues. The only problem I could see is that its going to make replacing the alternator more difficult.

Talk about STEALTHY!

As you can see, the bumper cover still fits perfectly, no drooping, cutting, or reshaping of the cover at all.

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Rausch Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 215261 posted 05/06/05 11:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
the finish on the piping is exactly what i want for mine. i've got to get your recipe!!!



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Founder of Sold out to BMW Cru, then sold out there too.


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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 215413 posted 05/06/05 09:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Its just Rustoleum "Metallic", I think it was called. I expected it to be shinier, more like chrome, like the cap was, but this nice aluminum look is probably better.

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