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car wont go into gear


1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14836 posted 06/10/03 01:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
had the clutch replaced this weekend by my roommate (mitsu tech)..act 2600 and act ss disc. also did a new slave cylinder. everything is bled, plenty of fluid, etc. however starting today it is very reluctant to go into gear, pretty much grinds every one even with the clutch way depressed. any ideas??

need help asap!! thanks --john

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howard
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14837 posted 06/10/03 02:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Did you replace the pivot and the clutch fork, and shim the pivot?

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14838 posted 06/10/03 06:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
what do you mean get a new pivot and shim it????

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14839 posted 06/10/03 09:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
when the tranny fluid was filled up, 85w 90 was used..could this be the problem for the poor shifting? it shifts ok when in the first minutes of driving, but then quickly almost freezes up. i had BG Syncroshift in in before and it shifted fine. the cables seem to be moving fine.

i figured i would go get some GM Syncromesh tommorrow and see if that helps it. any more ideas???

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number3
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14840 posted 06/10/03 09:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Another thing to check Is if the shifter cable bracket is tight on the trans?

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04DrBlur
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14841 posted 06/10/03 10:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I am goin with Howard on this one. Definitely should have spent the extra $$ and replaced the shift fork and pivot ball. Same thing happened to me and looks like you are droppin the tranny again to put in the new fork. A mitsu tech did the install huh? Well if you ask me he should have known this was a problem area.

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meshwork
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14842 posted 06/10/03 11:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had the same problem years back with my Talon. Howard is right, but I had to learn the hard way and drop it three times before I even thought about it.

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Luke
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14843 posted 06/11/03 12:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hmm.. if he didn't have problem with shifting before the clutch job, I don't see why he would need a new clutch fork now.

I just recently replaced my tranny with a TRE rebuilt unit. I did not put in new shift fork and pivot ball, but I did shim the pivot ball, and new TOB + TOB clip.

No problem so far.. And the TRE tranny shifts very well. It only took Jon 2 days to do the rebuild.

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14844 posted 06/11/03 12:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
the thing i dont understand is that it worked fine at first..i was out of town, friend did it while i was gone, even picked me up at the airport in it. drove fine. then today, it got progressively worse to the point that it doesnt want to go into any gear after a couple minutes of driving.

if the clutch fork was the problem, wouldnt it just flat out refuse to go into gear period, from the get-go?

car shifted perfectly before the clutch job.

i think the system may need to be bled again and possibly throw in some Syncromesh...I really dread the thought of dropping the tranny again.

any more tips??? besides do everything the first time? already got that point [Wink]

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gvr4tel
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14845 posted 06/11/03 01:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What was the step on the flywheel cut to? I
believe for Act PP and disks the flywheel has to
be cut to .610 . RRE has a info on this on their
site.

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14846 posted 06/11/03 01:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
im not sure about the flywheel..i bought another one that was already resurfaced from a friend to kill the downtime. i dont think that has much to do with it though.

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04DrBlur
Flung Poo
936/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14847 posted 06/11/03 05:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Crawl under the dash and tell us if the master cylinder is leaking fluid... You will know it if it is leaking.

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meshwork
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14848 posted 06/11/03 06:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Its not the fork itself...its the way it pivots on the ball. Beforehand you probably had a stock clutch or one that was lighter, so it wasn't as much of a deal. Now you have a heavier clutch, so when that fork tries to push and gets that extra resistance it falls off to the side instead of pushing the TOB straight ahead.

And do check the master cylinder too. Maybe you got lucky and its just that.

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gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14849 posted 06/11/03 07:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The same thing happend to me when I installed a ACT 2600. I got about 6 months without having problems.

After rebuilding the master and slave cylinder, I still had a problem. I was starting to get really pissed.

Then one day I tried to downshift going around a corner and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor.

The stock clutch fork has a weak spot on it and I belive it will flex before it breaks. Have a friend push your clutch in while you look at it.

With the 2600 everything has to be working right, and a new fork and fulcrum should be installed. Also a SS clutch line helps too.

There should be a how to on this. This gets brought up alot.

ACT 2600 = rebuilt/new slave and master cylinder, new clutch fork and fulcrum, and SS clutch line. It should work fine after everything is ready for the heavy PP. A 12 year old stock system is not going to be able to handle it.

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turboflanagan
I would give myself something respectable.
478/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14850 posted 06/11/03 08:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
There seem to be issues with the clutch pedal assy getting play in it that will not allow the clutch to be fully released. I haven't seen it though. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Lots of clutch info here. Check and see if it applies to you.

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14851 posted 06/11/03 10:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
the master is leaking slightly

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Ant
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14852 posted 06/11/03 11:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by 1667 VR4:
im not sure about the flywheel..i bought another one that was already resurfaced from a friend to kill the downtime. i dont think that has much to do with it though.

I think the flywheel needs to be have a precise step hieght for the ACT 2600. Was the flywheel you bought machined for an ACT ?

Ant

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spoulson
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14853 posted 06/11/03 11:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This seems to resemble my experience with a leaking master in my 2G. Just one day while leaving work, I go to depress pedal, start car, ok. I depress again to put in gear and it just drops a lot easier and I just barely got 1st in. I learned to shift without a clutch after that.

Strange part was this was all stock clutch parts on a 3y/o car. Oh well.

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14854 posted 06/11/03 04:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ok here are the facts. Iam his roommate, the one that installed the clutch. the flywheel was not resurfaced for a act clutch. 2cd the master is leaking Slightly. 3rd i put new syncromesh fluid in it and it dident do anything. I adjusted the clutch pedal nothing really. it works fine for a littlre then when it wharms up it works for shit. Has anyone had this happen before with this clutch set-up.

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meshwork
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14855 posted 06/11/03 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Get the flywheel stepped correctly. The master cylinder is either leaking or its good. So replace that. While you have the trans off to do the flywheel, change the fork/pivot/TOB.

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number3
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14856 posted 06/11/03 05:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
http://www.teamrip.com/clutch%20adjustment.html

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SEVEN26
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14857 posted 06/11/03 06:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
my bet is on your master cylinder. thats what it was for me. if you can put into gear while your car is off but not while its on, then my bet would be the master cylinder. you might as well check that anyways, since its leaking.

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1667 VR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14858 posted 06/14/03 12:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, it looks like we're going to have to pull the tranny again. All new slave syl, rebuilt master, new GM tranny fluid and fully bled system have done nothing except make it worse. So time for a new clutch fork i suppose.

On the bright side, at least i shouldnt have to worry about ANY clutch-related parts going bad for a long time, since theyre all brand new! [Big Grin]

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turboflanagan
I would give myself something respectable.
478/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 14859 posted 06/14/03 08:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I will personally be surprised if it is your clutch fork, but a new one is a very good idea. I put one in mine, just to be sure. Double and triple check the step height of that flywheel. In fact, you have an extra now don't you? Have it surfaced and cut to the correct height.

It really sounds like a clutch/flywheel problem. As the clutch warms up and gets more "grippy", if that step height isn't right then they would drag and make it difficult to get into gear.

However, if there was air in the line, would it expand as it got hotter? And therefore take more compression from the master to move the slave the same amount due to the air compressing? Who has a good answer to that?

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