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Sanity check regarding thermostats and cooling


EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221156 posted 12/01/15 12:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I installed a scirocco radiator and two big fans over the summer. I also installed a 180* t-stat and played with my coolant offset a bit to get my OL thresholds inline. This all worked fine and dandy. Now it's winter and I'm rarely seeing my car go over 180*. No big surprise there given the t-stat I have. it drives well enough with the coolant offset telling the car it's 10* warmer than it actually is, but I'm getting a bit concerned that driving around at 174* (normal cruise. it gets up to 186* when I drive with a bit more spirit or up a long hill) might not be the best thing for the motor, either. I mean it's not the end of the world, but it's not where (I think) the car wants to be.

There's a 190* t-stat sitting in the passenger seat of my car right now. I plan on putting it in after lunch today, but I wanted to make sure I'm not crazy. I've searched the forum and there's a number of discussions regarding problems people have running much colder than me or much warmer than me. So, where does the car like to be when running? Stock temp ranges (190-206) or 2g ranges (180-196)?

What I really wish is that someone made a 185* t-stat for our car. seems like I'd get the best of both worlds. Without it, I suspect this summer I'll either be replacing the fans I got at Autozone with high-flow/high-performance fans, or swapping the 180* t-stat back in.

Well that, or putting in a bigger radiator, but fuck if I want to do that again.



RIP 543
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2006 Suzuki SV-650 (for sale)
2011 BMW 335d (~510'lb/tq and 36mpg. hwy. How can you go wrong?)


Edited by EfiniX (12/01/15 12:06 PM)

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EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221179 posted 12/01/15 07:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Done and done. Temps now settle around 190 (as you might expect), and run between 190-196 under normal driving. Pretty much exactly what I was hoping for. Now when the weather warms up, we'll have to see how things behave...



RIP 543
Ded click
2006 Suzuki SV-650 (for sale)
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diambo4life
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221244 posted 12/03/15 08:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would be shocked if you didn't overheat in the summer with those AZ fans. They are rather worthless. I worked there and have run them. You may need to get a nice high output fan. The difference in the amount of air they move is staggering. I suppose you could just wait and re-evaluate summertime....



1991 Belize Green GVR4 #476/2000: 788WHP/588wTQ (dynojet) Old setup, 3400lbs
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thomcasey
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221249 posted 12/03/15 09:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I ran 1 @ 10" FAL fan on a single core Scirocco radiator in my swapped Colt. I could never get that thing to overheat, even in 95, high humidity heat sitting in line @ the shootout. For Oregon, he could be good considering he has two. The Scirocco radiators are amazing at cooling. Considering they are designed to cool at constant high RPM since VW's are geared high like DSM's



Thom
(SOLD) 866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

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Tisquantum
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221789 posted 12/15/15 11:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I as wondering about all this myself as the car has about 10 miles on it with the Scirocco rad in it and reliability is my top priority. I've commuted high strung, finicky 4G63s before and thermal issues are the LAST thing I want to deal with.

Engine compartments with out any provision for air to leave over the cowl are bad in many, many ways to persons with performance in mind. We all know that thermal exchange is a function of surface area and flow. Even a mod as simple as propping the rear of your hood 1/4" to 1/2" with washers and longer bolts will reduce drag and lift, increase front grip at speed and provide more efficient cooling both at speed and in traffic.

Venting the rear of the hood is obviously much easier, less permanent and most important of all less conspicuous than gnarly hood vents.



221/2000 Build In Progress

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thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
866/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221794 posted 12/16/15 06:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You have other issues if you need to vent the hood. I have never had under-hood temp issues unless the fan stopped working in traffic. Proper coolant mix, a good radiator and a quality fan for under 30mph traffic and you should be good. Now, if there is a big 'ol FMIC blocking flow to the radiator you then might want to be sure the airflow ducting is in place and maybe alter it to fit with the FMIC and such. This will help the cruise airflow and can help the fans pull fresh air during low speed/traffic (Here is where the quality fan and proper coolant mix comes in as over 30MPH, you get more airflow than with a fan). You can also consider some coolant additives such as Water Wetter and ensuring all heat deflectors are in place or use heat tape on exhaust components to help keep the temps down.



Thom
(SOLD) 866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221795 posted 12/16/15 08:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Venting the rear of the hood.



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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221796 posted 12/16/15 08:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cowl induction, baby!



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221797 posted 12/16/15 08:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It still amazes me that people think that it vents air. For 50yrs muscle cars do it to for more air intake, yet people still think it lets air out.



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gvr4ever
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221798 posted 12/16/15 10:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I thought the vents in the EVO/GVR4 was to let heat escape. Some cars got functional ram air, others have functional vents for a top mount IC. Can't bunch all hoods together.



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EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221799 posted 12/16/15 11:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I figure come summer, I'll be putting in better fans. At the time, I was just working with what i had on the timeline I had. I'm not excited about the idea of having to swap thermostats twice a year. Not a solution.



RIP 543
Ded click
2006 Suzuki SV-650 (for sale)
2011 BMW 335d (~510'lb/tq and 36mpg. hwy. How can you go wrong?)

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thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221800 posted 12/16/15 11:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This summer, running a stock Galant single core radiator, stock fan, stock 195 thermostat driving the galant to the shootout I averaged 170-180 temps before the thermostat at speed (over 40) in the Ohio heat/humidity. Fans kicked on a couple times while waiting to enter the race park. Having a VR4 or Colt for that matter, you have better airflow through the radiator even with a big FMIC due to having an actual grill to take air in.

I can see running a 180 thermostat in Arizona/Nevada/New Mexico/Texas where temps tend to soar, but in the PNW, you should not have issues unless your cooling system isn't in good shape.



Thom
(SOLD) 866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

Posts: 907 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Member Since: 09/24/14 | IP: (50.58.165.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221801 posted 12/16/15 11:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting gvr4ever:

I thought the vents in the EVO/GVR4 was to let heat escape. Some cars got functional ram air, others have functional vents for a top mount IC. Can't bunch all hoods together.





Yea the hood vents over the engine will, due to the louvered design creating negative pressure trough the holes. He mentioned lifting the rear of the hood. This lets air IN due to the high pressure area generated at the base of the windshield.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
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02 Acura TL daily duty unit

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89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221802 posted 12/16/15 11:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Tisquantum:

Even a mod as simple as propping the rear of your hood 1/4" to 1/2" with washers and longer bolts will reduce drag and lift, increase front grip at speed and provide more efficient cooling both at speed and in traffic.




This is by far the dumbest thing I have ever read while being a member here.

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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221803 posted 12/16/15 11:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I missed the front grip part. OMG too funny.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
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Tisquantum
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221807 posted 12/16/15 12:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You guys really are all about educating and community here aren't you? I wont forget!



221/2000 Build In Progress

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
715/1000
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221811 posted 12/16/15 02:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Your the one who posted a long technical sounding post with no knowledge of what your talking about.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
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Fish
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221814 posted 12/16/15 06:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't the Honda guys stack washers under their hoods for some reason?

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EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221831 posted 12/17/15 07:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting prove_it:

Yea the hood vents over the engine will, due to the louvered design creating negative pressure trough the holes. He mentioned lifting the rear of the hood. This lets air IN due to the high pressure area generated at the base of the windshield.




Well sure, but aren't they meant more for a car that's at rest and not in motion? If your car is overheating at-speed, you've got larger problems since at that point, the fans become irrelevant as well. At that point, it's all about the efficiency of your radiator, coolant mixture, and AFR's (since lean=hotter EGT's), right?

The only issue that I need to solve for in summer is my resting temps. The car likes to get a bit hot in stop-and-go traffic in the warmer weather. I figure new (READ:real) fans will help and hood vents won't hurt.



RIP 543
Ded click
2006 Suzuki SV-650 (for sale)
2011 BMW 335d (~510'lb/tq and 36mpg. hwy. How can you go wrong?)

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221832 posted 12/17/15 08:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Quoting Fish:

Don't the Honda guys stack washers under their hoods for some reason?




Scene points.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
Family Guy

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