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Fuel line and brake line options


dougmacho
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219342 posted 10/28/15 06:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's up guys, fuel and rear brake lines have rusted up and are leaking bad. Just wondering what you guys have done, whether to get the STM fuel line kit or try to source some oem ones.

Wondering how long installation can take?

Posts: 46 | From: kalamazoo, mi | Member Since: 07/05/14 | IP: (66.102.6.142) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219346 posted 10/28/15 06:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can splice just the bad sections, though I recommend doing it with threaded fittings, not compression. Or you can replace the full length, either buying a roll and reusing the factory fittings (though you can get new metric flare fittings also), or joining sections.

It can be a big job. It took me a few days to do three of them on my Dodge Caravan.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
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Posts: 10831 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (2602:304:ccc7:35) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219441 posted 10/30/15 10:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The STM kit says it adapts to the factory sending unit and fuel rail, but it's not clear how. I tried searching online for someone who's used the kit, but came up with noting. If you go that route, make sure you verify it will connect up to the flared fitting on the pump outlet. I don't see a provision for that in the kit picture on their website.

As far as the brake lines go, iceman has it right. That's going to be a shitty job no matter how you cut it. Personally, I'd run all new lines. I definitely wouldn't run splices with compression fittings. Splices with new fittings/flares would be my last resort. I'd say grab a roll of line, some new fittings and a tubing bender and go to work. Make sure you clean up any of the rusty brackets you'll be reusing that secure the lines in place. Usually the rusty bracket coupled with the rubber holder traps moisture and grime against the line, which is usually where leaks occur. The crusty brackets/holders will accelerate the rusting process and you'll be right back at square one before you know it.

Do you see now why everyone was busting your balls about the rust on that RS? That shit will bite you in the ass every time if left unchecked

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (132.147.30.78) | Report this post to a Moderator

G Galant VR4.org Moderator
JDM Unit
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219476 posted 10/30/15 03:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Preach, I've been hollering that from the mountaintop for years



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Posts: 8896 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (50.193.76.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219486 posted 10/30/15 05:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Get stainless steel line. Never worry about rusting for very long time!

Posts: 723 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

Scientist
Secretary of the Interior


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219872 posted 11/07/15 05:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I have the STM kit, will be attempting it from the tank next week



1988 VR4....Needs a lot of TLC

Posts: 531 | From: Roseau/Dominica | Member Since: 01/18/07 | IP: (199.189.115.30) | Report this post to a Moderator


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