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How critical is the FIAV?

Junior Member

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216747 posted 09/17/15 09:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So attempting to disassemble my non-functional Fiav,I eventually destroyed it.

So now it is off to our WTB section or Fleabay with fingers crossed.
What I have noticed on Fleabay is a 2 separate Fiav blockoff plates. One to retain the ISC the other without.
I understand the valves function, but question if I can get by without, as my climate here (Pacific Northwest) seldom stays cold for long... (just rain....)

Anyone with experience with a blocking plate, or am I best trying to hunt down a used working valve?


Posts: 66 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Heal and Toe

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216748 posted 09/17/15 09:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
hey, how did you break it?

here's a how-to from here, which i've used to 're-tune' my isc system: click

Edited by AllanL (09/17/15 10:49 PM)

Posts: 273 | From: NV | Member Since: 08/05/08 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Hard Snarker

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216756 posted 09/17/15 11:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Puget Sound? You don't need it. I removed it on 1051 long ago. Some may argue I don't drive that car in the winter. I also removed it on 503 which was my ski car for a number of years. Still didn't need it. I didn't even need to rev the car manually when I started it. The ISC did what little it needed to do to keep the car running while warming up. Zero issues with the FIAV removed.

*edit* BTW, I blocked off my FIAV the old fashioned way with JBweld. I didn't use a blockoff plate.


A face only a grocery shopper could love.

Edited by turbowop (09/17/15 11:51 PM)

Posts: 11965 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Junior Member

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216757 posted 09/17/15 11:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That was the exact "how too" I tried to followed.
Sadly the threaded cap refused to budge. I boiled, I soaked in liquid wrench, I thermal shocked it.... and got zero rotation from the thing. after a few days of passive attempts I got down right nasty and reefed good on it.... the cap just shattered.....
So here I set with 3 options:
Buy new, buy used (and hope it works),or bypass the system all together.

As cold idle lasts for only a minute or two in my climate, I was wondering others success with just blocking the assembly off.
Ive read post where some have done so, and others where they did and later unblocked it....

Just looking for thoughts from those that have been there....


Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000

Posts: 66 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Senior Member

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216812 posted 09/18/15 07:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
The last I looked the block off plate is $12. I blocked my last two with jbweld. The last one I cut off the fittings for the coolant lines. If your fiav works you won't be effected at all. That being said, you should always let your car warm up before using it. Technically it may take longer to do so in the winter, but I don't miss it.

Some people block off the isc as well. I wouldn't recommend that for a street car. Its necessary to keep the idle up when loads are put on the engine like electrical loads (lighst, fans) air conditioning and power steering.

Posts: 1499 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

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