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Clutch fork position


GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205885 posted 04/08/15 10:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm mating my engine and transmission together before dropping the motor in my car. Once the transmission is bolted up to the block, it seems like my clutch fork is sitting a bit too far toward the driver side of the window in the bellhousing. I have just under a 1/4" between the edge of the clutch fork and the edge of the window. There's nothing that I can find that's abnormal about my setup, so I'm thinking the pressure plate fingers just might be taller than average. I'm not super worried, but want someone to sanity check this. Here are all the details:

-Centerforce dual friction organic/carbon composite clutch & pressure plate
-ACT StreetLite Flywheel
-clutch fork in good condition
-New Mitsu OEM TOB
-New pivot ball (not shimmed)
-starter plate is installed

Can someone look at these pictures and throw in their .02?

Just under 1/4" of space in this picture:




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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205896 posted 04/09/15 01:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That looks way too far to the right. Also, pic two makes it look like the fork isn't fully seated on the pivot ball.

*edit* Maybe it is fully seated. Hard to tell in that pic. I can't tell wtf is going on, but it looks too far from center.



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Edited by turbowop (04/09/15 01:49 AM)

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diambo4life
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205899 posted 04/09/15 07:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It really will depend. Most of the times sitting too far to the right like that is from shimming the pivot ball quite a bit. Most DSM clutch setups work best with the fork almost in the middle of that window. Mine sits almost like that but I have an ACT 3200 which required it to fully disengage. The only real test is to make sure the clutch will not start slipping on you prematurely.


PS: I had the CFDF in my Galant about two years ago and that worked perfectly with the fork in the "normal" middle position.



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Edited by diambo4life (04/09/15 07:26 AM)

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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205900 posted 04/09/15 07:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is it a new flywheel, or machined? Seems off to me for what parts you have. Is it a 2nd gen revised clutch fork?



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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205903 posted 04/09/15 08:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The fork is definitely seated on the pivot ball. Far as the fork goes, it's not a 2g fork that I'm aware of. It came out of my old transmission, which worked fine at the time, so unless someone swapped it, it's not from a 2g.

Flywheel is used, but never machined.



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Edited by GSTwithPSI (04/09/15 08:07 AM)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205904 posted 04/09/15 08:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hard to tell, but in the second pic it looks like the fork is touching the PP. If it is or the clearance is super thin, I'd say there is something wrong with the fork, or the pivot ball.

I don't think it should be that far off from center with that clutch set-up.



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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205906 posted 04/09/15 08:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, the pivot ball is new. The fork clears the pp fine where it's currently sitting.

I suppose the fork could be wrong, I just assumed not since it was out of the other 1g trans. Ill need to do some research and figure out what different revisions there are, and how they could affect position.



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tektic
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205907 posted 04/09/15 08:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What was the step height of the flywheel? I'm pretty sure that was my issue.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205909 posted 04/09/15 08:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
There is only one revision on the fork. The 2g was a redesign that is much stronger and has better clearance. It still has the same dimensions, so I doubt it would make a difference. Yours could be bent, but it would be in the wrong direction. In fact Mitsu will sell you a 2G one when ordering a fork for a 1G.

Even if the flywheel was never machined, you still need to check step height. You can't assume it's right. Also I'd measure the thickness of the disc and call southbend to verify it's the right disc. After that, I really don't know what would cause this.



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Coltsfan
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205921 posted 04/09/15 11:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would be seriously worried abut the thickness of the disc. As it wears, it's only going to move closer to the right. There has to be something wrong.



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belize1334
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205925 posted 04/09/15 12:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You could also run into an issue with the fork rubbing against the casting of the pressure plate. Happened to me once. Started it up - sounded like a woodpecker on crack. It turned out I had overshimmed the pivot ball. Had to pull the trans to fix it...



Roger B. Scott
'91 Belize Green

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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205930 posted 04/09/15 01:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'll pull it back apart and take some measurements/pictures of the assembly. Thanks for the help guys.

One other question...Any of you still running a stock cast flywheel? Word on the street is, they explode. Any truth to that?



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Edited by GSTwithPSI (04/09/15 02:00 PM)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205933 posted 04/09/15 02:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
They CAN. It's happened, but not to anyone I've known. Lightened ones will for sure.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205937 posted 04/09/15 02:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Probably very dependent on how hard/how often you launch. I can't see it happening from normal usage unless the flywheel has gotten damaged/cracked and continues to be used.



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FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205952 posted 04/09/15 05:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting prove_it:

They CAN. It's happened, but not to anyone I've known. Lightened ones will for sure.




Archive thread dealing with the flywheel picture we all rememebered but is now missing on the interwebs

Found it on Tuners searching "Bruce Kwartlers flywheel".
Click
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Edited by FlyingEagle (04/09/15 05:09 PM)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1205979 posted 04/10/15 08:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Forgot about that, never running a stock wheel ever again.



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holeshotmoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206138 posted 04/12/15 02:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

...Any of you still running a stock cast flywheel? Word on the street is, they explode. Any truth to that?




Pulled this G-bomb about a year ago.



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holeshotmoe
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206140 posted 04/12/15 03:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think the fork is on the ball correctly. Darkness conceals the far end from view. Here is a picture of a new set from the top, then a couple more at an angle similar to your #2 picture.








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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206152 posted 04/12/15 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you didn't shim the pivot ball, and have pressure plate clearance, I wouldn't worry. You want the fork about 2/3 through the window for proper disengagement. Usually the step height is the other way (deeper) and the fork will only be about halfway, and will put the pedal engagement all the way at the floor.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206162 posted 04/12/15 08:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My fork is sitting in about that same location. I shimmed my pivot ball til it was at that location because otherwise my clutch wasn't disengaging until the pedal was on the floor. It works fine for me. I have a new ACT 2600 setup, fresh surface on a fidanza flywheel, brand new OEM TOB, new OEM pivot ball, new OEM fork, and I bleed the clutch correctly but it wouldn't disengage properly without the fork that far over.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206163 posted 04/12/15 08:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Found a little read on Tuners: Click



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presterone
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206412 posted 04/15/15 09:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I know the guy who bought bruces VR4 and had the flywheel shoot out, he hates galants now and begged me not to resurrect that one he once had.



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FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206706 posted 04/19/15 09:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting FlyingEagle:

Found a little read on Tuners: Click




From this thread, I think there may be room for a case to be made, that you could over-extend the clutch fingers?

Am I barking up the wrong tree?



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1206951 posted 04/22/15 08:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's possible, but usually happens with too thick of a shim, or extended slave rods etc. With proper pedal adjustment, you will be fine.



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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1210121 posted 06/13/15 10:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
So new question; How can I tell of my clutch is putting unnecessary pressure on the crank thrust?

Current setup details:

- Rod on the clutch pedal to the clutch master is nearly adjusted all the way out (nut and rod are even with the end of the clevis)

- Clutch fork position is sitting on the driver side (crank/timing belt side) of the motor just as the pics show above

- When I push the clutch fork in toward the slave with my hand, there is sufficient movement and the slave returns the fork to it's original position as it should

- Clutch is bleed, definitely no air in the system

- Clutch feels good and the disengagement/engagement is near the middle of the pedal travel

I've come to the conclusion the Centerforce PP is just tall, and causes the clutch fork to sit to the driver side...At least, that's the only conclusion can come to give all the shit I've changed and/or inspected.

So, my question really is, how can I tell if my clutch is putting pressure on my crank thrust? I'd do a check with the dial indicator, but I'd think that wouldn't show the issue until there's an issue, which I'm not trying to wait around for. Also, I've always been told if the clutch slave returns with you push it in with your hand, you're good. Any truth to this?

Any help, advice, or comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.



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Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/13/15 10:33 PM)

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