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wont crank instead activates fuel pump only.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1202573 posted 02/24/15 12:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
1990 GSXT has a 91 VR4 motor. after a motor rebuild, put everything back together, seems like I'm maybe missing a ground cable off of the starter to the block, but i cannot find it laying around so its possible i'm imagining that.

I put the key in, everything seems to function OK, i put the key in the start position, and all you hear is the fuel pump whirring, but it only Whirs with the key in the start position. The only thing not working before the rebuild was the transmission, which went in to be rebuilt. I took the motor apart to put new bearings and such in seeing as the motor was out. So it was fully functioning prior to removal.

Any ideas of where to look or what to try cause i'm out of ideas.

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iceman69510 Galant Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1202574 posted 02/24/15 12:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Fusible links on battery,

Check that both the large cable and small solenoid trigger wire are on the starter and the subharness that contains the solenoid wire is properly connected (3 pin triangular plug by the trans).

91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Edited by iceman69510 (02/24/15 12:15 PM)

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FlyingEagle Galant Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1202608 posted 02/24/15 06:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Once you did as Iceman stated, check with a test light for a signal at the push on connector (trigger) for the solenoid.

If no signal, you have to look further back, but likely a small connector is loose or green or ...

The starter grounds to the block, so the block does need a good ground back to the frame.

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toybreaker Galant Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1202621 posted 02/24/15 08:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
... from an old thread

Quoting toybreaker:

On the passenger side unibody section in front of the strut are a few mission critical harness connectors. They are somewhat hidden by the airflow meter and other stuff, so they're hard to see.

Circled in red, the rectangular connector is the power distribution connector for the car.

Circled in yellow, the triangular connector is the connection down to the starter solenoid.

If they are both plugged in, and the car won't crank, (as in rotate when you have the key in the start position) unplug the starter harness and check for power at the car side of the harness while the key is in the start postion. (you're checking the black with yellow stripe wire)

If there's nobody home on the car side of the starter solenoid harness, unplug the clutch down switch and try again. The switches go bad, and the little yellow plastic button that depresses it also gets broken. This will prevent the starter from operating. Unplugging the switch opens the interlock circuit, and will allow the starter to operate any time the key is in the start position.


found this old post


If you want a quick go/no go test, jumping positive battery voltage onto the mate of this ^^^connector^^^ is the easiest way to "jump" the system. Note it's position in the connector, and jump the mate to this connector using an alligator clip on the end of a wire. **I would be leary of doing this, as the current required to pull the starter solenoid in to actuate the starter motor is pretty large, and you may damage the pin in the connector. (once would probably be okay, but I wouldn't make a habit of it)

The hard way to "jump" things is to unplug that wire at the starter, then plug another wire onto the small connector, and then touch that to the positive terminal on the battery.

If you're feeling froggy, you can also just short accross from the positive starter feed wire from the battery to the small terminal with a small screwdriver, but there's gonna be sparks!

Make absolutely sure the car is in neutral before doing this!!!

Here's a pic of the whole starter sub-harness to give you an idea of what you're working with.

Good luck!

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1202636 posted 02/25/15 06:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
All outstanding information, which lead to the successful resolution. I had got 2 wires, both black and yellow mixed up, and 2 of the connectors, both the same shape mixed up. I think it may have hosed my turbo timer in the process. but the car runs and after a thorough warm-up it ran smoothly! thanks to the replacement of the balance shafts.

incidentally, the cooling fan now runs constantly... so on-wards to another issue.
Thank you all for your valuable information.


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