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Weld in ferrules


cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143033 posted 10/03/13 11:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Haven't decided 100% on this but I want to make some intercooler piping for the daily and I'm thinking of putting in some sort of quick disconnects that use weld in ferrules (not necessarily Wiggins Clamps since there are cheaper alternatives now that are suitable for my purposes).

My question is are the ferrule sizes internal diameters, and do you buy them the same size or narrower diameters than the IC Pipe?

In other words are they: -

(a) The same diameter as the intercooler pipe, so that you just butt them together, use something on the inside to hold them centred and then weld the 'seam';

or

(b) A narrower diameter so that they fit into the end of the pipe and get welded at the 'shoulder'?

My gut says (a) which seems less restrictive but (b) seems more secure.


Edited by cheekychimp (10/03/13 11:28 PM)

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EHmotorsports
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143038 posted 10/04/13 12:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If they are anything like this click they are ID sized so you would want the tubing to be the same OD.



click


Edited by EHmotorsports (10/06/13 11:44 PM)

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143042 posted 10/04/13 12:36 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Same OD or same ID?

I'm assuming that we want the same ID so that the inside surface of the pipes and ferrule are flush. Surely even if the outer diameters are slightly different (different pipe thickness) they can still be welded together?

Am I understanding what you said correctly ID = Internal Diameter and OD = Outer Diameter?



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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EHmotorsports
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143173 posted 10/04/13 10:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If the Coupler is 2.5" Inner Diamiter then you would want the tubing to be 2.5" outer diamiter. that way the coupler will slide over the tubing to make a super strong Joint.

If you do that to both sides and slide the V band flush with the tubing edge then you wont be causing unwanted Turbulence. but really unless you are going for every 10th of a HP it wont matter to much if there is a small internal gap.



click


Edited by EHmotorsports (10/06/13 11:46 PM)

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143186 posted 10/05/13 02:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


Right, now I see what you mean. Yeah that makes perfect sense now that you explain it like that. I'm glad I asked the question now. I mean I am sure it would have worked but I would basically have messed that right up doing it the way I was going to do it. Especially at the throttle body!

Like you said though for this application it doesn't need to be perfect. There are easier ways to gain power. I just want something that is easier to take apart for maintenance and that will help reduce boost leaks!

Thank you!



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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EHmotorsports
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143218 posted 10/05/13 10:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
no problem when I swap the HX35 in I was planning the same thing. I may not NEED it but it would be nice to have:)



click

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JNR
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143261 posted 10/05/13 04:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Guys, be careful using the terms pipe and tube for the same thing; they are totally different!

Tube is measured OD with a wall thickness and pipe up to 12" is nominal and comes in different schedules (or pipe wall thicknesses), ranging from 5 (thinnest) to 80; it goes higher than that, but for this conversation. For instance, a 2" pipe is 2.375" OD and a schedule 40 would be *close* to 2.00" ID and a 4" pipe is 4.50" OD and sch 40 close to 4.00" ID, but not exactly. They have charts on this and I don't have one in front of me, but generally speaking, schedule 40 or STD gets you close to the same ID.

So, anything you order, make sure it is the right stuff and chances are the IC and exhaust will use tube and not pipe. Pipe is overly stout, except when you're talking about turbo header or maybe an O2 housing, etc.

With that said, they make sanitary tube fittings that use a ferrule and are almost always 316 SS, but can get 304 SS or other materials...IRRC, it uses a gasket in between, but not so sure it would be rated for the temps of the IC tubing.

Here's an example of a sanitary fittings and ferrule, etc:


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EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143287 posted 10/05/13 10:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good thing we are not plumbing a house so I'm sure common sence will tell you to not go to Home Depot for intercooler "tubing".
Just like people always saying Motor swap or I need to rebuild my motor. It's not a motor it's an engine. Motors are electric.



click


Edited by EHmotorsports (10/05/13 10:49 PM)

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143306 posted 10/06/13 01:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ I saw a talon in town here once with 2.5inch copper water tubing soldered together. Looked like he was plumbing a hot tube instead of a turbo but damn it worked and didn't leak.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143360 posted 10/06/13 05:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yeah, I hear that on the motor vs. engine thing and also when people call screws, "bolts" when talking about going into a threaded hole. I don't correct people usually on stuff like that and let it go, but when it comes to pipe and tube, I do mainly cause there is a significant difference and they don't match up; especially when you start getting into fittings and joint connections, etc.

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EHmotorsports
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143380 posted 10/06/13 08:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
well good thing we all knew what we were talking about.

Ps. Corrected all reference to "pipe" with tubing so nobody would get confused.



click


Edited by EHmotorsports (10/06/13 11:49 PM)

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James
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143387 posted 10/06/13 09:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
A motor, by definition, does not need to be electric.



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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143547 posted 10/07/13 08:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
In automotive applications though, standard definition doesn't apply. Engine is the powerplant that creates forward movement and power for the electrical systems. A motor is a device that operates certain mechanisms.

I have this argument all the time. It's funny, some people call it a motor, yet they still call mounts engine mounts, and vice versa. Or the kids that ask me to wire up their engine harness for their motor swap.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143559 posted 10/07/13 09:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I always call it a motor. So atleast I'm consistsnt lol.



1990 Summit White Galant GSX
Chipped EPROM ECU/2g maf/550cc injectors/3in exhaust /E316G/FMIC/Wally255/AeromotiveAFPR/lower shores MBC

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JNR
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1143701 posted 10/08/13 02:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Well, to confuse matters more, they also call some lathes "engine lathes" even though it uses motor and gears...gotta love our bastardized dumbed down language, english.

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