ecmlink v3 1g idle settings question?

[turbophein]

i set the galant just like they showed on the videos. i have my maf at .24-.25 gr/rev and my combinedft are at 0-2%. i even did the drove around and used the adjust tool.

car idles great and all, but the problem is the car won't run when cold. my coolant temp sensor is working fyi. i have to play with the throttle big time and even then it won't accept much fuel...

couple questions?

are aftermarket cams(FP1) going to affect the base numbers that i should be targeting for? car seems to run good at .32 gm/rev by reducing by deadtime

also i think my deadtime settings are way off. to get the suggested reading i add 750 of deadtime.

am i missing something?

also when i change my MAS settings from a 2g to a evo Mas in ecmlink, the car runs better???

 

[EMX5636]

I'm assuming you posted this on the dsmlink forum as well. I won't be too much help, but I have never really "tried" to get a gm/rev number at idle. I started with the base injector deadtime/settings, and adjusted till the fuel trims were good and it ran smoother. The cams could change the "magic" number you're looking for as well.

I have 280* cams, and with the ISC set to about 30 steps at warm idle, I can reach in through the window and start the car even at 15-20*F outside. Throwing the deadtime and MAF readings way out from a base number, just to achieve what looks good on the screen, probably isn't going to make the car run better/right.

Edit* Do you still have a FIAV hooked up?

Sorry again, as I haven't had to re-tune my car in probably 4 years, so it's been a little while since I was in there to see exactly what you're talking about.

 

[turbowop]

Yeah, I never really was able to get my gm/rev numbers perfect either, but the car runs great so I don't really worry about it. It puts down 424whp and still gets 34mpg. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Can't be too far off.

 

[992gnt]

I had a bad IC105 in the ecu, which wouldn't let the isc operate properly and made cold starts a right foot only affair. Once warm it ran great. You might want to check the ISC for proper movement. If it doesn't move in and out (there's a video on the youtube), ohm out the ISC. If that's good check the drivers in the ecu.

 

[EMX5636]

I think DSMlink will display the correct position (via feedback from the sensor). If the value isn't changing, it isn't moving. Most of the cold start up, is FIAV adjustment, and not ISC anyway. Although you can usually adjust the ISC to take over enough if you deleted the coolant portion.

 

[transparentdsm]

my car(138) used to do that. i would have to hold the gas pedel down for 10 seconds to get it to catch an idle, now 1078 only has a chip and no v3 and i have to do it for this car. with mine i adjusted the deadtimes to my voltage. using this. click and a few other pages on there i did it a while ago so i dont really remember and i dont feel like reading it all again, but this should be helpful.

i know its for voltage drop, but it really did help for when the car was cold starting as the volts would start to drop so i would hit the gas and the volts came back up, so i thought this would help me and it did.

 

[prove_it]

What kind of fuel are you running? What are your mods? Type of injectors? Base fuel pressure?

Post up a datalog of a cold to warm cycle. I can review it and see if I see anything.

 

[vr4play]

It could be that your global is so far off that the car doesn't want to idle well until the oxygen sensor warms up enough for the car to start changing the fuel trim. What are your fuel trims at idle?