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4G63 Cyclone Non-Turbo - Unexplained warning lights in the speedometer

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
Hi,

recently got a half cut with following specs:

4G-63 (silver top)
non-turbo
Cyclone
Single wire O2 sensor
ECS (since the donor was half cut, ECS control unit is missing and ECS is not functional)
EPS (selection switch missing)
Front Wheel Drive
4 A/T KM175

Engine, ECU, wiring transferred and engine started without issues. However after the first run, a warning light in the instrument cluster lit up. If anyone can kindly explain what it is for?
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Cat Temp sensor. There's a second temp sensor in the entrance to the CAT.

There is a way to Bypass it, you fool it with a pack of low ohm resistors. I cannot remeber the specific value, but I had to do it on my Eterna Sava to pass inspection.

Rich
 

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
Thank you Rich.

Don't know much about the resistors, so I'll have to go with the new part. Do you know the part#? Also will appreciate if you can help with the ECM pin that connects to the CAT temperature sensor.

ECM I got from the donor is:
MD 128617
E2T33371A

I will upload the images later if it helps.
 

dandanger

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2011
Messages
59
Location
Finland
If you dont need to have the light lit you can just cut the wires for sensor or disconnect. The warning light stays shut.
 

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
dandanger: I can do that if I know the ECM pin for this sensor; OR where the sensor is located. I didn't get the CAT with the donor, so I am wondering that the wire would already be disconnected. Had a look in the engine bay, but couldn't see any disconnected wires.

turbowop: wouldn't just pulling the bulb (and leaving the input to ECM unattended) restrict performance?
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
From what I have gathered, this ECU is for a GVR4 JDM market:

MD128617 1991-92 GVR4 E39A JDM WoC

So, the car should be standard shift, and turbocharged?

I googled it and get conflicting results, but when I added this to the archive it would have been with good reason at the time.

Can anyone confirm what chassis and engine setup this ECU belongs to. I'll update with any changes. I don't have CAPS or ASA running anymore.

For reference, I believe this is where I sourced this particular bit of information from:
click
 
Last edited:

ktmrider

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Pull the cover off the ECU and verify if the 5-digit number on top of the ECU side connectors matches the 3371A portion.

Lots of covers get swapped over here over time.
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
The connector is on the floor, next to the centre console About level with the gear shift on a 4wd, on a fwd it's under the driver seat and the blower vent.

It has a red wire and a white wire. The sensor screws into the mouth of the cat.

From memory it's 15 ohms you need to jump it with. On my Eterna we used three in parallel (can't remember the value of each) to get the wattage up. It will show as a light because the ecu can see the sensor flat lining.

This sensor is a thermocouple to see if the cat is sitting at the right temp. Hence you don't remove it, you just need to fool it.

Rich
 

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
Hi FlyingEagle, the donor is certainly a JDM, but non-turbo FWD (A/T). I have included relevant snapshots:

Vehicle model plate:


1989 CAS:


Donor Engine Bay:


Although MD128617 matches, E2Txxx is different. In my opinion the print on ECM can be treated as authentic. MD128617 coupled with E2T37371 on the source link shared could be a typo.
 

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
Hi ktmrider,

you are right this could happen. But doesn't appear to be the case here. This box has E33 board.

ECM board JE33IA947A:
 

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
Hey Rich,

Bulls eye! I can see the harness exit point from the chasis under driver seat. It was the first set of wires I observed to be cut from some sensor. I tracked all the other wires (harness cut from middle since the donor is front half only) whether they connected to ECM, but not these as for no reason I assumed these would be for ECS.

I have asked someone to help with 15 ohms resistor set. If possible, can you (or share a source where I can) confirm that 15 ohms is what is required? Or otherwise share the part number for this sensor?

Cheers,

Ali
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
I installed all 4 versions of ASA yesterday, so I could now run VIN's and chassis/serial numbers again.
Here is the information I got from your chassis number:
Model + Chassis #
E33A 0031428
Classification
SRGM2
Option
OOO
Exterior
H84
Interior
09D
Production Period
1988 11 1 - 1988 11 1

ECU
PNC 82522
Part Number
MD128617

That matches your firewall picture, and confirms your ECU for what it is.

I've updated my listings now, thanks for you help Ali!
 
Last edited:

Ali_6306

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
27
Location
Lahore, Pakistan
I found this against the EGR temperature sensor:
Temperature-degrees (Fahrenheit) Resistance (ohms)
50 (122) 60 - 83
100 (212) 11 - 14

Do you think these should also apply to the CAT temperature sensor?

Ali
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
I'll have a look and see what I can find in the Jap manuals. Only the Japanese cars had the sensor, to monitor the entry temp into the cat. If you are not running a cat, then you won't need the sensor. The cat acts as a resistance back pressure and heat build up. The surface of the cat needs a level of temperature before it works efficiently.

Best thing to do if not on the stock system is to bridge it with the resistor and it will be have ok. Because it's a tem sensor all you do is fool it to a setting where it causes no issue.

As I said I'll have a look and report back, but 15 ohms is what I used on mine.

Rich
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Hi,

Had a look in the techmanuals and the shop manuals.

The tech manual refers to it as a temp sensor and says it provides a signal for 900 degrees Centigrade.

The shop manual lists a basic test to do at room temperature looking for 3ohms at 5 to 35 degrees Centigrade.

The 15ohms is to factor for the running temp.

I hope this helps.

Rich
 
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