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ECM link tuning...


Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012688 posted 08/19/11 11:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Anyone here have any starting suggestions/ settings, etc...
Better yet anyone here in GA who can help me tune in person? I pay in cash or parts (bout to have a complete 1g gsx for the pickings...)
any help or suggestions is much appreciated..

I have alog posted up on the link forums if anybody needs to see that here


Problems are it seems to be running rich, kinda doesn't have a nice smooth rev doesn't like to idle, overheating, seems to be stuck in open loop mode from the looks of the o2 sensor
I'm running v3 lite and I've already posted in the link forums no one helped or even responded there...

Current specs on 1439:
< 2 miles on engine
brand new o2 sensor
head rebuilt
all new gaskets + oem timing belt
balance shaft delete
rotating assm. fully balanced
isc/ fiav/ idle switch delete (running i.s. simulator in link)
modified gt2871 w/ t3 turbine housing
38mm ext. wastegate w/ open dump
aem tru-boost controller
aem a/f meter (almost always reads off the meter rich)
9.5:1 forged supertech pistons (.20 over)
JMF Sheet Metal Intake Manifold
Extreme Motorsports 3" exhaust
4gperformance 3" intake
3g Maf
JMF COP setup
Web cams(272 intake/276 exhaust)
Bosch 044 fuel pump in tank
FIC 850cc injectors
4gperformance FMIC setup
Mildly crushed Galant VR-4 bov x 2 recirculated
civic radiator w/ slimfan push, running about 30/70 glycol/ water
new water pump
new alternator
90 ext. oil cooler
remote oil filter
no AC or 4ws or PS (converted to manual rack)

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vtecds1
linkfail
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012691 posted 08/19/11 11:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Did you set your global/dead time? Is the fan kicking on?



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012728 posted 08/20/11 09:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm sure I could get it up and running smoothly but you are about 4 hrs away.



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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012730 posted 08/20/11 09:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
For FIC 850's with straight pump gas your global fuel should be at -47% and your deadtime should be around 330. check this, also check to make sure you don't have the lock in open loop box checked in the misc tab.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012731 posted 08/20/11 09:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I posted a log from when I just got my 6 bolt swapped 96 in and I got no help either. One thing I did notice is that it took a little time for my new Denso O2 to start cycling properly but now after a week it works fine. I'm on my phone so I'll check the log when I get home.



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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012739 posted 08/20/11 11:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Global is set at -47% and deadtime of 330, my rad. fan works pretty good kicks on as it should when it gets hot, just doesn't seem to be doing the job so i dunno..
lock in open loop is not checked, I'm running straight 93oct, I'm going to fix a couple boost leaks see if that helps maybe change the plugs..

thanks for the help definitely more than I got over on the link forums,
I don"t want make anyone drive up here from savannnah lol thats a hike..

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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012740 posted 08/20/11 12:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If your running a MAF and have boost leaks I'd bet that's most of your problems. Once you fix these go out and recomp you MAF. Getting that MAF comp table tuned to a tee will help the ecu hit it's intended fuel ration and timing A LOT.

I always start there after setting the global and deadtime.



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johnnyRacer
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012743 posted 08/20/11 12:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just an idea, we should have an ECM LINK TUNING section somewhere on this board. My $0.02



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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012748 posted 08/20/11 01:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't believe we have enough members running ecmlink yet. A tuning section that covers all the different softwares and chips would be nice though.



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02 Acura TL daily duty unit

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jmorri15
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012749 posted 08/20/11 01:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
it would be nice to have a tuning section seeing as how that scares people almost more then anything. being able to ask questions and discuss would be cool



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birdman24
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012757 posted 08/20/11 02:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Or just a how-to for tuning would help a lot of guys. I know I could use some pointers here and there.



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Learning something new about my car everyday!

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beaner
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012759 posted 08/20/11 02:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you have dsmlink, then you should have access to the dsmlink forums. Those forums are a gold mine of information. The demos spoon feed you how to set up the car, those combined with the forum is really all you need. Your thread was probably ignored over there like a thread about venting your bov would be here.

Quoting prove_it:

and your deadtime should be around 330.



Deadtime is an arbitrary figure IMO. There's too many factors involved for it to be the same on every car. Adjusting the deadtime is how you dial in the fuel trim anyways, so I don't see why someone would even want to use someone elses value. Set the global and leave it alone. Put deadtime at zero. Adjust your airflowperrev to the desired value (0.24 if you have dsmlink v3 and 0.27 if older), then raise or lower the deadtime to get the fuel trim where you want.

OP, if your car has boost leaks, misadjusted TPS, misadjusted ISC, misadjusted base ignition timing, dead o2, over heating, forget it dude. Make sure all this stuff is functioning and dialed in correct before even bothering to tune the car.

Post a log if all that stuff is sorted out and I'll help the best I can. Once you figure this shit out on your own, you have that AH-HA moment and it becomes by far the most enjoyable thing to mess with on the car.

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beaner
Blew1 Guy Today


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012760 posted 08/20/11 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting johnnyRacer:

Just an idea, we should have an ECM LINK TUNING section somewhere on this board. My $0.02



A section devoted to a single product? There's not even a non-gvr4 4g63 section.

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012765 posted 08/20/11 02:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Beaner:

If you have dsmlink, then you should have access to the dsmlink forums. Those forums are a gold mine of information. The demos spoon feed you how to set up the car, those combined with the forum is really all you need. Your thread was probably ignored over there like a thread about venting your bov would be here.

Quoting prove_it:

and your deadtime should be around 330.



Deadtime is an arbitrary figure IMO. There's too many factors involved for it to be the same on every car. Adjusting the deadtime is how you dial in the fuel trim anyways, so I don't see why someone would even want to use someone elses value. Set the global and leave it alone. Put deadtime at zero. Adjust your airflowperrev to the desired value (0.24 if you have dsmlink v3 and 0.27 if older), then raise or lower the deadtime to get the fuel trim where you want.

OP, if your car has boost leaks, misadjusted TPS, misadjusted ISC, misadjusted base ignition timing, dead o2, over heating, forget it dude. Make sure all this stuff is functioning and dialed in correct before even bothering to tune the car.





I have to disagree with the statement that deadtime is arbitrary. All injectors have different speeds in which the injector reacts. Deadtime compensates this. You cannot just set any number you want and tune around this. 330us on FIC 850's is ECMLINKs posted recommended starting point. AFTER you comp your MAF to get the proper airflow correction applied then feel free to adjust this in 5ms increments. With my 850's, a 5us jump makes a noticable change in ratios at idle. I can't imagine what -300us would do. Also it's very important to remember that deadtime pretty much only effects ratios at low duty cycle, mostly at idle. If your running lean/rich under WOT adjusting deadtime won't do you much good.



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beaner
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012769 posted 08/20/11 02:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Starting at 330 is good as a ball park, I'm just saying don't set it at 330 and forget about it. The ecu uses battery voltage and probably other parameters to vary the deadtime. Because of this, I don't see it being the same # for every car.

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1012787 posted 08/20/11 05:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Right, I agree with that statement. All set-ups will vary, but not by much. From my experience getting the airflow curve down to a tee makes all the difference. When I tune I attempt to dial this in before messing with deadtime. I pretty much use it as a last resort or a very fine tuning attempt.

I still think the OP has intake leak issues causing him to run rich and have issues.



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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013029 posted 08/21/11 11:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
thanks for all the response glad I posted here..
my o2 is brand new, the overheating happened when i took it for a test run down the road...

Don't think my tps is misadjusted, why is this suspect? I have no isc, how do I tell if my base timing is misadjusted? are you referring to the cas?
its current position is rotated about all the way clockwise becaue thats where its function best as far as keeping the car idling,
I'm gonna start by fixing the boost leaks, I just picked up a 1g talon tsi awd today so I have a whole 'nother 6 bolt turbo setup to get parts from if i absolutely need an ISC for some reason but in my searches it seems that an ISC is only there to compensate for ac + ps neither of which my car has...

at this point I can say I'm really looking foward to the ah-ha moment lol

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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013115 posted 08/22/11 11:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You had better do some studying friend. The ISC controls your idle all the time. Without a functioning ISC you can expect idle issues. If I lived near I would be over to help you out.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013132 posted 08/22/11 01:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

OP, if your car has boost leaks, misadjusted TPS, misadjusted ISC, misadjusted base ignition timing, dead o2, over heating, forget it dude. Make sure all this stuff is functioning and dialed in correct before even bothering to tune the car



This ^
Get your car up to snuff and set everything to base first. Otherwise you're wasting your time on adjustments. Set your CAS with a timing light!

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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013691 posted 08/24/11 09:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Been busy working so far this week, so i haven't made much progress is there any way to run the isc without the fiav in use?
because I know someone will ask...the biss has a fresh o ring on it and is in good cond.
another question are the vacuum inputs on top of the throttle body supposed to be blocked off a certain way e.g. recirculated into one another? I have them all blocked off with purpose built vacuum block of nipples right now..

once again I've gotten so muc more help on here its awesome thanks guys

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beaner
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013711 posted 08/24/11 10:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The BISS is used to get the ISC in it's operating range. Think of the ISC as a master and the BISS a slave. Blindly adjusting the BISS isn't really in your best interest, especially if you have DSMLink.

The FIAV, as I understand it, is for initially starting a cold engine. It's a chamber of wax that's hard when cold and slowly melted by the coolant going to the throttle body. As the coolant heats up and melts the wax, less air is let past the throttle body and the idle is lower. Many people run ISC and no FIAV.

As for the 4 nipples on the throttle body, just cap all 4 individually. I honestly forget which do what, but some are boost only, vacuum/boost, etc. Over the years I've realized that capping them individually is best.

Thumb through these sites for setting your ignition timing and fixing your boost leaks:

vfaq.com
plymouthlaser.com

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AuSpecVr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1013901 posted 08/25/11 09:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting johnnyRacer:

Just an idea, we should have an ECM LINK TUNING section somewhere on this board. My $0.02




+1 seems like a good idea to me.

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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1014092 posted 08/27/11 12:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ok fixed boost leaks, modified an fiav/isc block off plate to continue use of isc reinstalled everything and its definitely acting a little different but mostly the same, still same issue when I hit the throttle it dies as soon as it revs down? what gives, any ideas?
o2 is cycling but not like a regular running car, quite erratic still can't figure out if its in open or closed loop..
I'm enlisting the help of a paid professional if i can't get this figured out over the weekend, cause damn this is frustrating

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92stroker
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1014194 posted 08/27/11 06:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My suggestion is that you zero out your maf comp sliders, use the suggested deadtime as a starting point, and adjust it until your fuel trims are as close to zero as possible, but they are supposed move around, so don't go overboard. I shoot for a variance of less than +/- 5%. If your LTFTLo is Higher than your LTFTMid or LTFTHi, add deadtime, I use increments of 5uS unless the difference is extreme. If your LTFTLo is less than your mid/hi, take some deadtime out. If all the trims are positive, add some global fuel (small increments), if they are negative, pull some global.

Once you get your fuel trims where you want them, get a nice long log, with a lot of variation in your driving, I like an hour or so through a nice mountain pass, with twisties and straightaways, then when you get home, run the MAFComp Adjust Comined FT tool. This will give you a nice starting point for your MAFComp. Use the template, but don't take it as concrete, smooth out any spikes so that there is a nice natural curve. The data for the tool cuts off when open loop kicks in, so take the last point it maps for you, add just a little more in the which ever direction it was going, and then take that flat line all the way across.

Once this is done, your car should run pretty sweet and you can fine tune from there using measured boost or afr data if you have a MAP or Wideband, or both.

Good luck!

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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1014334 posted 08/28/11 06:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
thank you, thats the most detailed response I've gotten so far, I've determined the car is getting in closed loop as indicated by a 1 in the closed loop log items displayed in live capture. I have a aem uego wide band run to a gauge on me pillar, so its not logged and I'm still running the factory front o2
I'll go through the motions you put up

~thanks

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