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VPC Hardwiring


steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Key Fob Guy


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 312175 posted 03/01/06 10:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Subject: Re: VPC harness questions..
From: Shannon Knoepflein <mailto:[email protected]?subject=Re: VPC harness questions..>
Date: 01 Feb 2000 16:27:43
[Bibliography] [Digest]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

heres what you do to manually wire a VPC if you have the wrong harness.

cut the ECU plugs off your VPC harness. This should leave you with a red,
black, blue, white, and brown (I think...some harnesses had grey which is
the same as blue if I remember correctly)

see http://w3.one.net/~dmtalon/ecu_harness.html as a reference to the
following pin numbers

* the red is power, to pin 107 (splice this for power)
* the black is ground, to pin 106 (splice this for ground)
* the white is RPM (crank angle sensor), to pin 21 (splice this for RPM
signal)
* the blue/gray is the MAS VAF signal from the VPC, to pin 10 (splice this
to give VAF signal...since MAS in unhooked, you don't have to cut the
wire as no signal from MAS harness will be present)

now, you also have to set up values for the ECU to see for the IAT signal
and the Barometric pressure signal using resisters forming voltage
dividers. you need a 2k, a 2.7k, and a 6.3k resistor. heres how to do that.

* splice into pin 23, this is sensor induced power (+5 volts)
* install the 2k resistor between this wire (+5 volts) and pin 16
(barometric pressure sensor input)
* install the 6.3k resister between pin 16 and ground, pin 106
* install the 2.7k resister between pin 8 (intake air temp) and ground, pin
106

what this does is setup a voltage divider to the barometric pressure input
to the ECU so it always sees (6.3/(6.3 + 2))*5 = 3.8 volts. This also
sends a constant 2.7k of resistance to the IAT input on the ECU, which is
about 63-64 degrees I think.

The way I did all this was to buy a roll of 18 gauge wire and a 8-12
position terminal strip (plastic type European style) from Radio Shack. I
cut 12-16" long pieces of wire, used strippers to cut the insulation on the
ECU harness wires:

1 pin 107 power
2 pin 106 ground
3 pin 23 sensor power
4 pin 21 RPM
5 pin 10 MAS VAF input
6 pin 16 barometric pressure sensor input
7 pin 8 intake air temp input

...and push the insulation each way to leave a 3/8" gap of bare wire, and
then wrapped a stripped end of the 16" wire around it and SOLDERED it.
Please solder it, don't use vampires or just "wrap and tape"...you'll
think me later. Then run these wires into the terminal strip and label
them on a piece of paper (or print out the above list) you keep in the
glovebox. Now you have a nice place to tap off RPM, power, etc, etc when
you install stuff in the future.

Hope that helps, and good luck.

Shannon Knoepflein
92 Galant VR4 #720/1000
92 Talon AWD TSi AT
http://www.umr.edu/~shann



I know it's a foreign idea for most of us here, but you might want to try taking the car off jackstands.
-mitsuturbo

Posts: 18895 | From: NJ | Member Since: 09/11/03 | IP: (208.215.178.150) | Report this post to a Moderator

atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
Senior Ricer
1552/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 321957 posted 03/28/06 08:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Link to the way Apexi recommends using the SAFC with the VPC:

LINK

SAFC With VPC

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.


Edited by atc250r (10/18/07 02:34 PM)

Posts: 13235 | From: Orange County, NY | Member Since: 09/11/03 | IP: (205.157.244.33) | Report this post to a Moderator


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