GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
NOTICE: This forum is for archiving information and discussions. Please do not reply to threads unless you have valuable information to add. Do not post questions or problems here.

Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...
Previous thread Next thread

Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...


lambertvr4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109153 posted 01/23/04 09:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not sure, but that would reason that the stock 2.4L pistons were 6mm from dipping into the oil stock. Maybe, but I doubt it. What's it matter anyway? Sounds like a "natural" replacement for thos pesky oil squirters. [Smile]

| | | IP: (24.33.17.186) | Report this post to a Moderator

Beemer
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109154 posted 01/28/04 11:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've heard of folks shaving the piston skirts a few mm just to be safe. If the pistons do dip into the oil, you'll be foaming the oil..not good. Swapping the crank in the car is a total bitch, as you still have to move the tranny off the engine to get at the flywheel bolts...remember? It is much easier to pull the motor. I just finished an IN THE CAR rebuild on the white eclipse gsx and let me tell you that it was the stupidest thing I ever did. It worked, but prying the damned upper thrust bearing out with the crank in was a total nightmare. To each his own though. There isn't a guy who owns a dsm that isn't a masochist at heart...these cars have some strange engineering. I have a dohc 4 banger 91 camry with almost 200k on the original timing belt. Try that in our cars. The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much for the sqirters to get stuck open or closed. The 2g squirters are also a contributor to the 2g crank walk problem, as the squirters are fed off the main and rod bearing oil feed, not a separate oil feed as in the 1g big rod motors. Nothing like reducing your oil pressure to the rod and mains at high rpm to get people in the dealership spending money.

| | | IP: (69.66.78.203) | Report this post to a Moderator

fast_gvr4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109155 posted 01/29/04 06:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!! [Mad]

I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!! [Razz]

| | | IP: (172.144.193.186) | Report this post to a Moderator

BlackHole
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109156 posted 01/29/04 07:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
News on the block grinding; supposedly when using the 6 bolt 2.4 crank with stock 2.0 rods and custom pistons, you shouldn't have to grind.
On my 4g63 block using stock rods, 2.4 crank and Wiseco stroker pistons as best I could tell [it was hard to get a feeler gauge in there] there was not enough clearance [>1.25mm / 0.050" recommended by a reputable local race engine builder] for the rod end especially on the oil squirter side. Just to be safe I ground the lower edges of the cylinders and flattened the casting step in the block on the oil squirter side. Too much clearance is better than the alternative. [Smile]

quote:
(edited) Sufficient cooling can come from proper Air/fuel mixture and I am a witness....Oil squirters may help cool slightly, but I don't like the impact they have on overall oil pressure.
I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure. If you don't like squirters because of the oil pressure drop, that's a completely separate issue from whether or not the squirters provide some piston cooling. Mitsu very clearly states in the Tech Manual that the squirters are there to cool the pistons. If Mitsu didn't think they had a useful benefit, they wouldn't have spent the money to install them. I'll agree that with proper tuning they may not be necessary, however, I want the extra safety margin since I will have the car running WOT for 45min to run the Silver State Challenge and that is incredibly tough on any cooling system.

quote:
(edited) Oil squirters- the dips in oil pressure on my VR4 is with a new oil pump...Usually on turbo dsm's (in my circle of buddies here) if the rpm's dip to 600 to 700, the oil light flickers (not solid).
This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership never having spun a bearing or had a oil pressure problem of any kind. The only time I've ever seen the low oil pressure light is when my friend used 0W Mobil 1 in the summer. At my first Talon's 150k mile refresh the original bearings were excellent and the bores still had the original crosshatch. Guess I've just had good luck.

Anyway, as far as the 2.3/2.4 swaps go, to each his/her own since there are many "right" ways to do it all depending on your goals. I'll just say that I'm finding the 2.4 crank in 2.0 swap very easy, painless, relatively inexpensive and things are going well. Yeah the rod ratio sucks, but I won't be revving the thing beyond the stock redline so I'm not worried.

| | | IP: (130.36.27.125) | Report this post to a Moderator

dc_style
Member ++
808/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109157 posted 01/29/04 09:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
how much did it cost you to put in the oil squirters?

Posts: 534 | From: Saint Paul, MN | Member Since: 09/04/03 | IP: (204.169.115.103) | Report this post to a Moderator

anomalyva
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109158 posted 01/29/04 09:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by fast_gvr4:
Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!! [Mad]

I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!! [Razz]

People and rod ratio. IT IS A NON ISSUE! I have 4 friends, one with over 20k miles, who all run their 2.3L stroker or 2.4's up to 8500-9k rpm. They all drive the cars hard, and NONE of them have had issues. Yes the rod ratio is worse than the 2.0, but it is still within acceptable range. You will have a non-shifting tranny long before rod ratio starts breaking parts.

| | | IP: (164.65.132.68) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109159 posted 01/29/04 09:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I agree 100% with anomalyva

ROD RATIO in a nonissue now. Plenty of high HP, much higher than all of you, have gone to 9000rpms. Don't buy JE pistons and build the stroker right and it will be troublefree

| | | IP: (128.138.45.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

MustGoFaster
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109160 posted 01/29/04 09:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Beemer:
The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not.

False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in.

| | | IP: (63.226.180.47) | Report this post to a Moderator

liquidgvr4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109161 posted 01/29/04 10:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in
actually your right; now I remember they do have a little spring in the bolt (sometimes I confuse starions and eclipse engines because I've done both, but both have the springs I think).

quote:
I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure.
My statement was meant to be a comparison of trade-offs; sorry it that wasn't clear. I didn't confuse to two.

quote:
This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership
Who know's; maybe it's the warmer GA climate, I don't know. But here's my resume and that of one of my friend's: 8 mitsu turbo cars (6 starions/conquests, one gvr4, one tel) and a former Mitsu service adviser (currently @ land rover), and I've built almost as many engines as mitsu products I've own. My buddy Mike (who experiences the same prob) has been working @ mitsu for 10 years, is currently an asst. svc manager, has a 450whp '92 talon (1998,1999,2000, and 2003 Nopi Nat'l eclipse mild class champ), slightly modded '92 eclipse (his fiancee's; 2003 Nopi Nat'l conservative class champ), and a deadly quick 1989 modded turbo colt (1.6 dohc; he doesn't experience the pressure drop in this; and to be fair my turbo mirage was a 1.6, too, so that may be unfair to include that car in my "sacraficed Oil pressure w/ squirters" theory). My buddy's bro-in-law had two tel's and even in his when the RPM's dip (when pulling from a stop and not getting on the gas, or whatever reason the rpm's dropped under certain conditions, the oil light will flicker for a brief sec. or less), it did the same thing. Why we got into listing the "resume", I don't know. I guess I just wanted to let you know that I'm not a total idiot, just partial [Big Grin]

| | | IP: (66.255.16.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

BlackHole
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109162 posted 01/29/04 02:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
dc_style,
quote:
how much did it cost you to put in the oil squirters?
I'm not sure if you are asking me, but it cost me ~$110 for the block machining and $80 for brand new oil squirter parts from Mitsu.

My poor motor - it started out it's life as a NT, then got turbo'ed and now is turning into a 2.3L. I'm sure the poor 4g63 is scared to see what I do to it next. [Big Grin]

| | | IP: (130.36.27.125) | Report this post to a Moderator

dc_style
Member ++
808/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109163 posted 01/29/04 03:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
sounds reasonable. how much for maching your 64 block? what turbo you have on it?

Posts: 534 | From: Saint Paul, MN | Member Since: 09/04/03 | IP: (24.118.170.17) | Report this post to a Moderator

turboren
Official GVR4.org Polo Shirt Pimp
1571/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109164 posted 02/29/04 06:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by GVR-4:
I've heard the piston skirts on a 2.4 will dip into the oil at the bottom of the stroke. Can anyone confirm this?

That can't be true. The piston skirts would have to extend BELOW the rod journal at BDC. Think about it. If that were the case, the crank would be spinning in the oil all the time.

Ren

Posts: 538 | From: Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 08/20/03 | IP: (198.26.132.99) | Report this post to a Moderator

gixxer
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109165 posted 03/01/04 12:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i'm glad to hear about the 2.3 not having longevity issues as that is something i am definetly going to start piecing together come summer. i'm surprised no one has talked about the 2.4 block with the 2.0 crank yet, can you say 11,000 rpm rev monster? cool idea, but i'd take peak power before 7k please. people dislike the JE's becuase of cylinder sidewall scuffing right? Ross still the way to go these days?

| | | IP: (129.219.23.221) | Report this post to a Moderator

BlackHole
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109166 posted 03/01/04 12:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Marco / Magnus has offered the hi-rev 2.4 for a while now - 2.1L. 11k rpm would be nice if you actually get the stock tranny to shift at that speed.

As far as 2.3L pistons go, I'm building mine w/ Wiseco.

| | | IP: (130.36.27.125) | Report this post to a Moderator

gixxer
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109167 posted 03/01/04 01:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yeah, i also heard about the 2.17L first from Magnus, i haven't heard of a single person using one yet though.

| | | IP: (149.169.33.86) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109168 posted 03/01/04 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
g64b crank part number = MD080691
bearings part number = MD091399

I'm about to order both of these so if anyone knows differently please tell me now. Groc or anyone else with a finished stroker?

| | | IP: (162.18.125.155) | Report this post to a Moderator

Russya
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109169 posted 03/01/04 04:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I also need to know if those are the right part numbers or not

| | | IP: (67.166.115.103) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109170 posted 03/02/04 10:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
bump...anyone?

| | | IP: (128.138.45.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109171 posted 03/03/04 11:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
6-bolt g64b Crank: MD080691
6-bolt g64b Main Bearings: MD091399
6-bolt g64b Rod Bearings: MD071298

I ordered these today. If they're wrong i'll correct them for the archives.

| | | IP: (162.18.125.155) | Report this post to a Moderator

JUANPSI
Senior Member
175/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109172 posted 03/03/04 02:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How much was the crank??

Posts: 270 | From: NY | Member Since: 09/03/03 | IP: (67.100.180.2) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109173 posted 03/03/04 02:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
$500 I think. I'll get exact prices when I pickup next wed.

| | | IP: (128.138.45.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

JUANPSI
Senior Member
175/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109174 posted 03/03/04 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cool thanks

Juan

Posts: 270 | From: NY | Member Since: 09/03/03 | IP: (67.100.180.2) | Report this post to a Moderator

Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109175 posted 03/12/04 03:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Picked up all the parts above with my prices at Boulder Mitsubishi:

6-bolt g64b Crank: MD080691 $504.53
6-bolt g64b Main Bearings: MD091399 $65.25
6-bolt g64b Rod Bearings: MD071298 $55.45

 -

 -

 -

 -

 -

| | | IP: (128.138.45.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

JUANPSI
Senior Member
175/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109176 posted 03/12/04 03:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Stroke it!!!!! [Devil]

Posts: 270 | From: NY | Member Since: 09/03/03 | IP: (67.100.180.2) | Report this post to a Moderator

GVR-4
Creative Name Huh?
77/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109177 posted 03/12/04 05:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Very nice. Keep us posted on the buildup.

BTW, is Clevite just a brand of bearings? If so, are they better than stock Mitsu parts?

Posts: 2599 | From: Asheville, NC USA | Member Since: 04/22/02 | IP: (68.115.168.208) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1 | 2 | 3
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 6 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 13913

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.096 seconds in which 0.034 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.



Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page