Ok guys, I stabbed it in along with a set of whiteline springs today. Here's what you need to do for a quick, successful install.
1: Order a NEW set of sway bar end links. If you haven't replaced them, they're shot..
2: Drop the exhaust..it just makes it easier.
3: Support the rear end, and pull the 4 nuts off the supports.
4. Unbolt BOTH E-brake cables from the control arms
5: Unbolt the p/s rack tie rod ends from the lower control arms. If they spin, theres a half hex on the top side you can put a 14mm on to stop it from spinning.
6: Drop the rear end until it hangs by the shocks only
7: Unbolt the end links. 9 out of 10, they will spin. There is a hex head on the other side of the swaybar end link. BE VERY careful and use a thick wrench that isn't already spread out..we're talking snap on, not craftsman. Use a craftsman wrench, it will spread and round the hex off, and then you'll have to vice grip it.
8: Unbolt the old "D" brackets. The bolts are rarely rusted for some reason.
9: Find a grenade.
10: Take the bar out from the passenger side. Once you get the drivers side around the drivers side p/s rack tie rod end, it should snake its way out with minimum cussing. If not, see step 9 and slide the new bar in the same way the old one came out..again, getting it around the tie rod end can be a bitch, but if you angle it just right, you can force the tie rod end over the sway bar by hand..if not, you don't have the sway bar positioned correctly.
11: VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Get out your die grinder. First, slightly crimp the "D" bracket in a vice to make the curve a bit more extreme. The brackets are a little loose for my taste.
12: This is the hard part..but it's a no brainer. Take an angled to a sharp point stone, and chuck it up into your die grinder. Elongate the hole so it actually goes up into the curve of the "D". It should look like you took a hole saw down the side of the bracket when you're done. THIS IS FOR BOLT HEAD CLEARANCE.
13: Now, here's the sneaky part. Get some of those old exhaust manny studs you have stashed. Get ONE flat washer per stud. Grind the flat washer about 1 third away, and round it off so it is shaped like a "D". This way, it will fit snugly against the bracket, but also keep the nut from pulling thru.
14. Find a nut just big enough to slip over the shoulder of the stud..(man that sounds bad...)
15. Lock washer on top, then the brass self locking nut.
16. Screw the studs into the "D" bracket holes until the shoulder bottoms out.
17. LUBE THE SHIT OUT OF THE BUSHING, INSIDE AND OUT! LUBE THE INSIDE OF THE "D" BRACKET AS WELL
18. Yes, you guessed it, now you install the poly sway bar bushing on the bar, and then install the "D" brackets. It is easier if you put the far end of the bracket (the end towards the rear of the car) in at an angle so that it goes UNDER the steering rack, if you still have your rear steer. If you don't, prepare for a nightmare.
19. Here is where you see the value of using the studs and lengthening the holes into the curve of the "D" bracket. The bracket will slip nicely over the studs, and you will still be able to get a socket on it all the way tight. Obviously, you are using the bigger nut as a spacer.
20. Reinstall all the stuff you took off.
21. Go get a big shit eating grin on your face after you do your very first powerslide..