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How to remove a stuck rotor with a simple nut and bolt.

boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I have tried to explain to people how to use a nut and bolt to remove a pesky rotor and can never really explain it very well. Since I was doing just that tonight I decided to take some quick pics so people can see what I'm talking about.

Something to keep in mind if the rotor is really stick this is most likely going to chew it up. If that's the case it may not be reusable. Try this at your own risk.

What I basically do is take off the caliper and find any bolt a little smaller that the caliper mounting hole. I put the bolt in backwards with a nut on the inside of the mounting flange and thread it towards the caliper. If the nut isn't bigger than the caliper hole find a think washer that is bigger. Once the end of the bolt makes contact with the rotor tighten it just a bit, back it off, rotate the rotor a little bit and do it again until the rotor finally pops off.

Here is how I set it up.


This picture kinda sucks but you can see where the bolt pushes on the rotor.


If you look at the rotor in relation to the ABS ring you can see how much I pushed the rotor before rotating it and doing it again. After 3 or 4 tries the rotor popped right off.
 

pauleyman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
91
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
OEM rotors (and most aftermarket) have a bolt hole on the face to accomplish this same task. If you use the oem holes you don't push on the face of the rotor but instead you are pushing on the hub. A light coating of anti seize on the mating surfaces will help this problem from happening in the first place. Only one time have I ever seen a rotor not come off by using the the factory bolt holes and that one was so bad I cut the rotors off the hub in pieces. Literally several pieces. It was the worst I had ever seen a rotor stuck to a hub.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Although this trick has worked for me many times, just a heads up: I recently broke a steering knuckle doing this. The brake caliper bracket ear sheared right off. I'll get a pic if I get a chance. On the same car, tons of MAPP gas heat got the other side off without using this trick.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
For the front rotors I just thread two bolts through the two smaller threaded holes in the rotor. Tighten those down and they push the rotor right off the hub.

For the rears I use a block of wood and a small sledge to hammer them off.
 

boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
When I tried to use those little threaded holes they stripped and wouldn't push the rotor off so I went this route. I could see if a rotor was really stuck it could break an ear off but as always try at your own risk. Personally I haven't had that issue the few times I have used this method.
 

91VR41400

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2004
Messages
109
Location
Rockville MD 20852
Yeah just in case anybody didnt know, like already mentioned, some rotors have 2 threaded holes to stick screws into and it pushes the rotor off..



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CutlassJim

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,696
Location
Manchester, NH
Quoting pauleyman:
OEM rotors (and most aftermarket) have a bolt hole on the face to accomplish this same task. If you use the oem holes you don't push on the face of the rotor but instead you are pushing on the hub. A light coating of anti seize on the mating surfaces will help this problem from happening in the first place. Only one time have I ever seen a rotor not come off by using the the factory bolt holes and that one was so bad I cut the rotors off the hub in pieces. Literally several pieces. It was the worst I had ever seen a rotor stuck to a hub.




Antisieze is a great idea but if you have to take off a rotor that is stuck AND the two little threaded holes strip out (Yes is does happen) just take a big mallet and smack TOWARDS the hub between the wheel studs (the hub part not the rotor!) It's like smacking a balljoint or tierod from the side, kind of counter intuitive but a few good whacks and it will pop right off.
 

Ive always used a 3 pound brass mallet and hit them once or twice. MANY MANY brake jobs this guy has done and that hasnt failed me yet. The brass hammer deforms before the rotor does.. My first .02 post!
 
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