The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
NOTICE: This forum is for archiving information and discussions. Please do not reply to threads unless you have valuable information to add. Do not post questions or problems here.

Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » How to fix a torn CV boot.
Previous thread Next thread

How to fix a torn CV boot.

Fatty McButterpants

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1015650 posted 09/03/11 04:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Both inner CV boots on 1101 were torn so I decided to rebuild them. I only show how to do one but they are all the same with the exception of the boot shape and I'll explain that a bit later. This can be a really messy job so make sure you plan accordingly with rags or towels. Mine just recently tore so the grease wasn't bad at all but if there is a lot of dirt in them you may need to get them really clean.

First you'll need to get some tools for this.
From left to right. Razor or scissors, snap ring pliers, wire cutters, needle nose, beer of your choice, and those weird pliers. Have no idea what they're called I just happened to have them.

Here is another pic of the pliers. That part makes for the perfect clamp.

This is the boot I use. They are always high quality boots and they clamp on really nice. They also come with all the little stuff as well.

Here's what come in the box.

So lets gets this show on the road. Here is what I have to work with. It's the driver side front axle.

You'll start in the small side of the boot. Take the little clip off the rubber boot then I'm gonna take off the snap rings that holds the CV joint on the axle.

It might take some persuasion but the the center section will slide off the shaft once the clip is removed. Make sure you keep an eye on how it came it out since it only goes on one way. In the pic you can see that the bottom side of the center section of smooth. In either case if it doesn't go on then flip it over and try again. It should slide on done smash it on.

Now you have smooth shaft. Clean it up with a rag because it will be getting new grease. I also recommend cleaning the cups that the CV goes into.

Here is the difference between the inner and out CVs. The inner have the tri shape to them and the outers and perfectly round. The steps for replacement are the same for both.

Now we just gotta put it back together. Start with the small end of the boot on the shaft. Remember kids, no glove no love.

For some reason the metal band is pretty long so I slide it on and see how much I can cut then I trim it down a bit. This makes it much easier to get latched before you compress it. Try and get it as tight as possible first so you get a nice tight boot.

Here you can see why that tool makes such a nice crimp.

Now we just gotta put it back together. Slide to the boot back onto the little ledge molded into the axle. When you put grease into the boot it's pretty important that you make a fart noise as the grease comes out.

Now slide the center section back on the shaft and make sure to put the snap ring back and that it is fully seated.

Now just slide the boot over the axle cup. It might be a tight fit but it will slide on. Once that's done then put the new clamp on and crimp it.

All done. I had the other inner CV boot to do and it was the exact same process.

Posts: 4085 | From: Scottsdale, AZ | Member Since: 04/20/06 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

toybreaker Galant Moderator
it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus

Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1015687 posted 09/03/11 11:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Thanks for the excellent write-up, Michael!

This is one of those jobs that will "save" much grief further down the road.

Re-booting an o.e. axle will ensure a much more satisfactory service life than just exchanging your axle for a p.o.s. re-man that has had the heat treat ground out of the ball tracks.

If I could be so bold as to offer a few extra tips, I like to cut both the boot clamps off, then slice the boot in half lenghtwise with a sharp razor blade, and then put the cut boot in a plastic bag straight away.

Cuts down on the mess a scosche

I also wrap the splines with cheap electrical tape so the inner diameter of the boot won't get roughed up while sliding it over the splines. It probably won't rip it if you don't, but the inner diameter seal better if it's undamaged.

Thanks again for an excellent addition to the section!


"lite" beer?


Edited by toybreaker (09/03/11 11:15 AM)

Posts: 3540 | From: Never Summer Ranch, Colorado | Member Since: 04/30/06 | IP: ( | Report this post to a Moderator

Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 18 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Thread views: 6790

Rate this thread

News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement

Generated in 0.053 seconds in which 0.032 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.

Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page