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Scirocco radiator question

Dashnizzle

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
34
Location
Great Falls, MT
Hello.

I recently ditched my factory radiator it was covered in oil, mashed up, and I've always loved the scirocco placement.

I took a chance and ordered this:

I may have jumped the gun when ordering, it is a bit smaller than expected. It measures :
  • Core Size: 12.25" x 20.75" x 1.5" / Overall Size: 13.5" x 25" x 4"
  • 1.25" inlet/outlet
  • 1639508425798.png
I also have a 12" SPAL fan that pushes 1870 CFM, this thing seriously blows some air, like REALLY blows air.

With a 500hp goal, do you guys think I might run into some cooling issues because of the small core size? I would say its closer to 2" not 1.5" width, but those specs are from the amazon link so lets say 1.5" and err on the side of caution.

Thanks in Advance
 

yubh8tn

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
195
Location
coeur d alene, idaho
I'm not an experienced GVR4 guy. I'm not even an experienced car guy for that matter. But everything i've read has made me never ever want to do the scirocco radiator mod. Engine bay space is nice and it looks nice but i've heard far too many problems caused by it than benefits. My two cents is to get a factory replacement or find a local radiator shop that will make you an aluminum one.

edit: I wanted to respond to tyeler's post without commenting again. It's good to know the scirocco radiator is a viable option. Probably will go for it eventually depending on how it goes for you Dashnizzle
 
Last edited:

tyeler18

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
130
Location
Casa Grande, AZ
I put the same radiator into a customers 2g with the same spal fan. He's an FP black/2.3 stroker and has zero issue cooling the car. I use the same fan on my X-line in 736 with an FP red and it can cool with the A/C on on it's own almost.
 

Dashnizzle

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
34
Location
Great Falls, MT
I put the same radiator into a customers 2g with the same spal fan. He's an FP black/2.3 stroker and has zero issue cooling the car. I use the same fan on my X-line in 736 with an FP red and it can cool with the A/C on on it's own almost.
That's reassuring since I am going the FP Red direction. You used the same radiator? For example the AFCO one is much larger in core size and thickness, but is still a scirocco style. Just want to clarify.

I'm not an experienced GVR4 guy. I'm not even an experienced car guy for that matter. But everything i've read has made me never ever want to do the scirocco radiator mod. Engine bay space is nice and it looks nice but i've heard far too many problems caused by it than benefits. My two cents is to get a factory replacement or find a local radiator shop that will make you an aluminum one.

edit: I wanted to respond to tyeler's post without commenting again. It's good to know the scirocco radiator is a viable option. Probably will go for it eventually depending on how it goes for you Dashnizzle
Yeah man there's a lot of good info on the site here about this mod, I'm not aware of the problems you are referring to besides the fact that you shouldn't rally with it in this position.
 

tyeler18

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
130
Location
Casa Grande, AZ
That's reassuring since I am going the FP Red direction. You used the same radiator? For example the AFCO one is much larger in core size and thickness, but is still a scirocco style. Just want to clarify.


Yeah man there's a lot of good info on the site here about this mod, I'm not aware of the problems you are referring to besides the fact that you shouldn't rally with it in this position.
Sorry I misread, we are using the AFCO which uses 1" cores, I assume this uses a 3/4" core if it's saying 1.5" width. The extra width your measuring is probably just end tanks and not actual core thickness. The AFCO core is definitely plenty here in AZ on 115F days it has no issue. I'd think you'll be perfectly fine in montana with that core size.
 

Dashnizzle

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
34
Location
Great Falls, MT
Sorry I misread, we are using the AFCO which uses 1" cores, I assume this uses a 3/4" core if it's saying 1.5" width. The extra width your measuring is probably just end tanks and not actual core thickness. The AFCO core is definitely plenty here in AZ on 115F days it has no issue. I'd think you'll be perfectly fine in montana with that core size.
No worries, the core size listed on the link says 1.5” with the overall width being 4”.
I’m going to run with it and let the SPAL pick up any slack. Thanks for the input!
 

Ludachris

Administrator
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Messages
1,099
Location
California
Too bad the PWR radiators are so tough to get for these cars these days. Those are great radiators, especially their thicker core radiators. Mine worked great on my 1g on road courses.
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,808
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
With some trimming the chase bays S13 tucked radiator is an option too, if you have AC deleted.
 

JNR

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,803
Location
ca
Too bad they don't make them in brass/copper configurations. Heavier, but superior in heat transfer to aluminum.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
... shame Kenn Inn isn't around anymore. :(

He could get the O.E. spec Behr 1st gen (74-79) VW units, and they were very high quality brass radiators!

We used to run those in all kinds of different configurations, and they always held up well and had more than enough capacity for all the crazy things we used to do, and certainly had enough delta for even a built 4g63 on a hot day at the track.

The key with these units is to understand they are of a two pass design.
(the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the radiator, and it is spit into top and bottom flow paths seperated by a baffle that has a gap on the solid tank end )

Coolant comes in the one side, travels all the way across, goes around the end of the baffle and then travels back across to the outlet.

This means the coolant spends all it's time moving at a *relatively* high velocity compared to a single pass design, but covers twice the distance


The o.e. mitsu units are top/bottom flow, with inlet/outlets on the upper and lower end tanks and are of a single pass design. This means the coolant moves at ~ half speed inside the o.e. radiator compared to the scirocco units .

This changes the delta aspects of the equation significantly, so be sure to factor that into your math
High flow water pumps and thermostats will make all the difference in why it works in one car but not another

I've always felt that Ducting/sealing the edges of the radiator to prevent air bypass is the #1 thing to ensure cooling system efficiency on these cars at speed.

Don't let any air bypass the core, and things will be just fine, with almost any radiator

... let the air bypass the core, and well, there's pretty much no radiator that's going to work at speed

(my opinion, ymmv)
 

Dashnizzle

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
34
Location
Great Falls, MT
... shame Kenn Inn isn't around anymore. :(

He could get the O.E. spec Behr 1st gen (74-79) VW units, and they were very high quality brass radiators!

We used to run those in all kinds of different configurations, and they always held up well and had more than enough capacity for all the crazy things we used to do, and certainly had enough delta for even a built 4g63 on a hot day at the track.

The key with these units is to understand they are of a two pass design.
(the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the radiator, and it is spit into top and bottom flow paths seperated by a baffle that has a gap on the solid tank end )

Coolant comes in the one side, travels all the way across, goes around the end of the baffle and then travels back across to the outlet.

This means the coolant spends all it's time moving at a *relatively* high velocity compared to a single pass design, but covers twice the distance


The o.e. mitsu units are top/bottom flow, with inlet/outlets on the upper and lower end tanks and are of a single pass design. This means the coolant moves at ~ half speed inside the o.e. radiator compared to the scirocco units .

This changes the delta aspects of the equation significantly, so be sure to factor that into your math
High flow water pumps and thermostats will make all the difference in why it works in one car but not another

I've always felt that Ducting/sealing the edges of the radiator to prevent air bypass is the #1 thing to ensure cooling system efficiency on these cars at speed.

Don't let any air bypass the core, and things will be just fine, with almost any radiator

... let the air bypass the core, and well, there's pretty much no radiator that's going to work at speed

(my opinion, ymmv)
That's great information! What exactly would you duct/seal? The actual fan to the core like a shroud or am i misinterpreting you?
 

trevstuh86

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
32
Location
Mansfield, Tx
I wouldn't use that radiator from amazon. I ordered the same exact one and was pushing coolant into the overflow. I did all sorts of troubleshooting from replacing 3 thermostats, 3 radiator caps, 3 head gaskets, resurfaced my spare head, replaced a good water pump. Only to find out the amazon radiator was bad. After all of that I replaced it with my civic radiator I had sitting form some years and I haven't pushed a single drop of coolant.

It was bad man, soon as the car got to operating temps, 186 and quickly jumped to 210 then 223 logging link v3. Coolant would start to bubble into the overflow. I would go with this one and I might order as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203115703198?epid=10023771863&hash=item2f4aa3ab9e:g:VIoAAOSwGGNhFmXr
 
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