Power steering rack leak and tie-rod problem

[mooserage]

So, I've been losing power steering fluid like crazy lately. I jacked the car up, I knew the leak was on the driver's side, so i turned the wheels to the right to get a better look and bam! Before I got the pictures below, it was pouring out of this tear in the boot, I emptied the lines in ~45seconds...

So, here is my question: Is the tie rod toasted now? I know it needs a new boot at least... More importantly, There is a leak in my steering rack, does anyone know what is the likely culprit? (picture below with my guesses) Should I try to fix this or just take it to someone? Thanks guys
-shamus

 

[mooserage]

Bueller?

 

[mooserage]

Okay, let me try this; Is it difficult to take the power steering rack out? (Or, do I need to remove major parts? i.e. subframe, engine, etc.)

 

[Barnes]

Hmmmm. Depending on how long the boot has been torn, the tie rod might be fine. It looks like your oil seal (#41) is toast. It might be possible, someone will have to say for sure, to replace that seal with the rack in the car. I know people have replaced tie rods with the rack in the car. Keeping the rack in the car at all costs is a good idea. It isn't easy to get out of there. You have to take a bunch of sh*t out.

 

[mooserage]

Ugh, not what I wanted to hear. well, I will try to get it in the air and just start taking stuff out. We'll see how close I can get to the seal... Thanks.
-shamus

 

[Barnes]

Um... I don't know if the car is drivable now, but it will be down for sure if you take that route. Once you take the tie rod out, you will need some few parts at a minimum. I'm like 99% sure there is a special lock washer you will need to replace after you get the tie rod out.

 

[mooserage]

Dangit... The car is driveable for about 5 minutes before enough fluid leaks out that I'm not comfortable. But, don't get me wrong, I'm not driving it right now, I'm just saying it will make it to a shop at the expense of more damage to the components of course... So you would suggest taking it to be fixed though?
-shamus

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

I am in the same boat as you with the rack. It leaks and my tie rod ends are dead. It would be more cost effective to just get a whole rack then buy everything separate I suppose. They are pricey for the VR-4 and run about $400~. If you find a place that has them any cheaper than let us know. My rack is affecting the response at idle as well making the steering wheel very tough to turn until I give it a rev. Replaced the power steering pump already with different ones to attempt to fix the problem and looks like I will have no choice aswell

 

[mooserage]

Yeah, I'm not sure what to do right now. I was hoping someone had rebuilt one and could give some advice as to the best route to go. Btw, thanks BarnesMobile for the help so far man.

KingMarty here is what I found just looking real quick:

A full Unit is:
-400$ rebuilt at Schuck's
-There is 1 left @ RockAuto by TRW that is 239$ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
-JNZ (need to call)

A gasket kit alone is:
-124+tax at schuck's
-78$ @ RockAuto
-102$ through JNZ

This is IF anyone is stocking these items...

On a side not, my 4ws steering is eliminated, so switching to a non-4ws is easy and cheaper... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
-shamus

 

[H05TYL]

I have the same problem, currently running with the p/s belt removed.

 

[mooserage]

This is sad, its like AA where everyone finally steps forward to admit their problem haha... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[raptorWagon]

find a manual rack? You don't need powersteering anyway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[H05TYL]

I don't want a million turns lock to lock thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[misterfixit]

Rebuild it. not to difficult,

Get the kit from Mitsu and replace all the seals. If the core piston rod is scored use some green scotchbrite to polish it bach up. Should be about 16microinch surface finish or better or 0.4 micro mm. Could try getting a non 4ws rack to use as a stop gap if you need the car during the rebuild.

Be VERY VERY careful of the seals, and cover the rack teeth with soft tape as you feed the piston rod back into the end gland.

A rewarding task to complete. here are some pics of a Fiat (italian TRW rack) i rebuilt from my wifes car.






To drop the rack on the galant you need to drop the transfer case, front of exhaust pipe and cross member strengthening. When I did my one on my galant, I also changed tha hard lines on the outside of the rack as these were badly corroded through the rubber bushes.

Rich

 

Rich - where did you get the hard lines that attach to the rack?
At least one of the lines on my VR-4 that go through the rack bushing sprung a leak lately.

Thanks, Pete

 

I recently replaced a leaking rack hard line on my car and was able to buy it from the dealer.

The gentleman did indicate that stock was extremely low on the line I purchased.

 

[misterfixit]

Should be available at the dealer. If they are running low in the us then european availability will be a goer. If you can now order parts from japan through the us dealerships surely you can get stuff from the EU.

Rich

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Or you could just have a line made. SS or a regular line.