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Oil change questions

EfiniX

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
647
Location
portland, or
My car currently has Mobile 1 in it from the last owner. I'm getting close to 3k mi. on the current oil. What is the recommended change interval for the GVR4?

Also, I can't change my own oil as I live in downtown Portland with a garage spot in a large building (and it's slanted, so even if I was sneaky, no dice). Any recommendations for where I can take the car (dealer or otherwise) to get a good, synthetic oil put in? I've searched for Mobile 1-branded oil change shops, but there aren't any that I can source.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

C
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,762
Location
O-H-I-O
I'm sure I'm going to get flamed, but in the Subaru community Mobil 1 is considered about the worst brand of oil there is. Appearantly is shears down, and doesn't retain the proper viscosity. FWIW, I run Rotella T6 in both of my cars.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Mobil One 10w30 ain't what it used to be. I use the 15w50 in 1051 but that oil is still okay. FP has a good webpage suggesting better oil choices. I'd follow that.
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Ohhhhh! This should spark quite the debate!

I, personally, also use Mobil1 on my car, and I change it at the 3000mile marker simply because it's a turbo car, I boost fairly frequently, and I drive a lot on the highway at sustained higher RPM than most people.

Now, this is the part where it's going to get interesteing...

Synthetic oil by nature, is designed to break down slower than conventional oil. It's also designed to and does stand up to heat way better than conventional oil, as well as having certain characteristics that allow it to lubricate more efficiently. Now, because it doesnt breakdown as quickly as conventional oil, you can typically get away with a longer interval between changes. Having worked in the automotive repair field for over 10 years, I've seen multiple vehicles who use synthetic oils and easily roll over the 7k mark before coming in for an oil change, with no ill effects. BUT, these are STANDARD, normal-person driven vehicles, NOT performance vehicles that are known to produce excessive heat/etc.

MY basic rule of thumb goes like this:

Conventional oil change (regardless of driving style, except when "beat on" constantly): 3k miles/3 months
semi-synthetic: do not recommend
full-synthetic(non-turbo/supercharged/forced induction/performance vehicles): 6-7k miles based on driving habits/etc. Normal city driving, NO towing, limited/lower amount of highway use/sustained higher overall RPM
full-synthetic (turbo, HI-PO, forced induction/etc): 3k miles when driving styles/conditions permit. I.E. sustained higher RPM usage, "spirited" driving/etc.

Now, this is simply put MY OWN habits as far as oil changes/etc go. Im sure someone else will come in and give you a completely different opinion, as this seems to be one of those topics that there is no definitive answer to.

In a nutshell, just keep the level correct, and the oil/filter itself clean. If when you check your oil, it smells like there is fuel in it, it's abnormally dark/black/thin, it's in need of a change(except where diesels are concerned, which is a whole 'nother ballgame).

As far as taking your vehicle to get the oil change done, thats all really a matter of preference. Allthough, I will definitely tell you supplying your own oil and filter and paying for the labor alone is by far the cheapest way to go.

I hope that helps!

-Jake
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
i agree with liv4psi and wop on their points. Rotella is really good for the price, and the zinc content is pretty good. that's pretty much the cliff notes of that FP oil recommendation document. use oil that contains a high amount of zinc, and your turbos will last longer.

i use regular rotella 15w40, its like $11/gallon at walmart. i was recommended this by an extremely reputable engine builder a few years ago. he builds NASCAR, SK modified, and some other series competition engines. he also recommended the brad penn, both oils for the fact that the zinc content was high. i typically change it every 2k, and use a mitsubishi oil filter. after putting some decent mileage on a few engines like this, and tearing them down later on, the internal parts don't wear too bad and everything still looked really clean.
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,762
Location
O-H-I-O
Brad Penn is recommended by the Subaru guys over Rotella, but I believe it is more expensive as well. IIRC, it contains an additive that makes it preferable.

Oil analysis is actually pretty cheap. I would like to send some of my used oil in sometimes just out of curiosity.
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
I would buy the oil my self what ever your preference is and a good quality filter like Mann,Mahle,Denso,Wix,Mobil 1,K&N,Napa same as,wix ect..... and just change it at a buddys house or take it to a small local owned shop which they shouldn't charge too much Just stay away from Fram shitty filters.


I have also used Seafoam in the oil/gas/intake hose before I changed the oil made a huge difference but not sure on a turbo car some one chime in.. Last time I tried it was on my SR20 Sentra I was surprised with results smoother idle and smoother acceleration. Also noticed oil stayed cleaner after treatment.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Depends on your driving style and climate you will be driving in.

Quoting EfiniX:
My car currently has Mobile 1 in it from the last owner. I'm getting close to 3k mi. on the current oil. What is the recommended change interval for the GVR4?

Also, I can't change my own oil as I live in downtown Portland with a garage spot in a large building (and it's slanted, so even if I was sneaky, no dice). Any recommendations for where I can take the car (dealer or otherwise) to get a good, synthetic oil put in? I've searched for Mobile 1-branded oil change shops, but there aren't any that I can source.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

C

 

BpuVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
806
Location
Chicago
i just dropped in Rotella T6 5w40 and a Pure One filter two days ago. Had VR1 20w50 in there before and I was dying to get that oil out of there as the temps are dropping. The top three oils Ive seen praised between here and Bob is the oil guy forum are the Rotella, Mobil 1 and Brad Penn. Rotella was fairly easy to pick up- Napa- i don't think there was a Brad Penn distributor near me, and the price was great. I did a synthetic oil change for right about $30. I don't really hear as much about Royal purple like I used to.
 

tektic

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
I just took the castrol 10-30 synthitic out of my 95 subaru legacy after 5k and it was thick, black and grody. I cleand my k&n filter at the last oil change. The oil was very clean after 3k last change. I don't usually go 5k but thought that because it was synthetic and an n/t car it would be ok. Would you think this is the oil or the interval? I'm going to try 4k next go around. I won't ever go 5k again just because it's synthetic.

I see new toyota manuals sugjest 7.5k mile between oil changes. Is there somthing I'm missing here?
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Saab once recommended the 9-3 turbo ecotec to go 18k per change because it's synthetic. The advertised interval means nothing. Oil won't break down in a daily driver, at least not fast enough. The primary reason is because the detergents in the oil get "used" up and need to be replaced, hence the black thick oil effect.

Change your oil once it's turning black, or a max of 4k on an older engine.

Most contamination occurs from blow-by gases that get suspended in the oil's detergents. Newer fresher engines can go longer since the rings do a better job of controlling the blow-by. It's also a great selling tool, since people think it's cheaper. Remember, after warranty is up, the Manufacture cares a lot less about your car.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I'm also in the "used to run Mobil 1" category. Their formulation went to sh*t 5-8 years ago, and I won't go back. Their performance oil (like the 15w-50 WOP suggested), hasn't been as bad, but I still don't like it compared to their old stuff. I swapped to Valvoline VR1 and change it every 2500-3k. I've sent out a few samples to get tested, and it seems to be holding up well at those intervals and boost/RPM levels.
 
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