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Help diagnose no-start

I just bought a 91 Galant GSX and am unable to get it to start. I bought it in non-running condition. So I need some input here in case I'm overlooking something. I've been a DSMer for six years and have a lot of experience with the 4G63 but I'm stumped with this one. Here's what I've done:

- checked base timing. With the #1 piston at TDC, all the timing marks line up perfectly. Tension on the belt is correct and there is no slack anywhere
- checked for spark. I tested each wire separately for spark and every one checked out. I also put a set of known good plugs in
- checked for fuel. I pulled the line going into the rail and cranked the motor. There is definitely fuel feeding the rail
- checked the CAS. First I made sure that the cas wasn't inverted 180 degrees, then I removed the cas and put the key in the 'on' position. I cranked the cas by hand and could hear the injectors clicking. I was told this is how to diagnose a good cas /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
- checked battery connections. I sanded every ground, battery posts, connectors, and positive connector. Everything is clean
- checked for air. All related sensors are plugged in, etc.

So, basically when I crank the motor it seems vastly underpowered. It seems to crank slowly instead of aggressively. At first I thought I wasn't getting any spark because it feels like the motor is turning under it's own power without any help from combustion. Since I did all the cleaning up of the connections, it cranks faster but still not strong. *I will point out that I had the battery hooked up to a running vehicle while I was testing this so there was no shortage of voltage at the battery.

In conclusion, if anyone has some suggestions, let me have 'em! Additionally, I would like to know if the starter can be swapped out for another (like from a Talon or Colt) and which model would fit appropriately.

Thanks.
 
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TRBODSM

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
278
Location
Northglenn, CO
Have you done a compression test? I didn't see anything about you checking the compression on the list of stuff you checked.
 

The car should still start with poor compression. However, your comment will annoy me until I actually go and satisfy myself that the compression is reasonable.
 
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866galant

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May 31, 2008
Messages
32
Location
TX port arthur/beaumont
- checked base timing. With the #1 piston at TDC, all the timing marks line up perfectly. Tension on the belt is correct and there is no slack anywhere

Setting base timing is done with a timing light (gun) ,don't forget to ground the inspection terminal on the firewall.
 

boosted_85

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Apr 2, 2009
Messages
198
Location
milwaukee, wi
Do a leakdown test so see if you don't have any bend valves because bend valves can make your car crank real slow with bad compression
 
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rgeier11

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Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
726
Location
Chicago Suburbs, IL
I agree with the compression test. If the engine checks out fine, it must be something like an ECU.
 

Did you check fuel pressure? You could have fuel flow but not enough pressure. Just a thought.

Do you have a logger? I had a similar no start problem with a bad ECU. Plugging in the logger showed a "communications error."
 

Good call, guys. Finally got around to getting out there today with my compression tester... zero on all four cylinders. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif I'll get to the bottom of this soon.
 

If the car has sat a long time without running there won't be any oil on the rings or cylinder walls, making it tougher to build compression. I would put a teaspoon of oil down each sparkplug hole and crank it over a few times.
 

autobahntom

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Joined
Feb 8, 2003
Messages
1,250
Location
Delaware
The lifters may also be 'frozen'. This will also give zero compression. Can take them out; collapse them and reinstall (or put 3g ones in while you are there).
Tom
 

Thanks again for the advice guys...

Keydiver, I tried that (oil in cylinder) a couple of days ago with no luck.
Tom, you and I are on the same wavelength. Last night I spent the better part of an hour bleeding a spare set of 16 HLA's so that I could check/repair that exact problem this morning. So I got over there today, opened up the valve cover and it's worse than I thought - almost all 8 intake valves are stuck open (not as a result of a frozen lifter unfortunately) and the same on the exhaust side. The rockers (or whatever you call 'em) are easily removed by hand and I'm surprised they're not scattered all over the inside of the head.

So, it appears most of the valves are so bent that they're not seating properly. Great.

I have a spare head from a 1g (6 bolt) turbo talon... can I swap? I have little experience with the non-turbo motors so I'm not sure if this is an identical head. If they are identical, that would be ideal because I could rebuild the galant head and use it on my spare turbo motor.
 

autobahntom

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Joined
Feb 8, 2003
Messages
1,250
Location
Delaware
All 6 bolt turbo heads are the same. The difference with JDM and USDM heads is only how the cam bearing caps are marked. One is marked I and E, the other marked L and R-and since the bearing caps stay with the head one can usually tell where the head originated. Cams are different depending on year.
Tom


Edit: I have used non-turbo heads on turbo motors (6 bolt). They have the oil feed for the turbo on them-they work. 7 bolt heads (1g ones) can also be used on 6 bolt motors, you just have to have the head bolt/stud holes made bigger as they had smaller diameter head bolts in OEM configuration.
 
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