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Hello

The8er

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Just recently purchased a 91 GVR4 663/2000. It's in pretty good shape. Appears to be a fairly clean minus engine. Everything but the rims appears to be stock and factory installed, no signs of tinkeritus. Very minimal interior issues. Engine was seized and in currently getting a bath and bore.The shop said it will go 20 over and crank 10 under.

My goal is a 400 HP DD. I have never rebuilt an engine, I have a pretty decent understanding. My father has built several and is willing to lend his knowledge on the intracacy. MY biggest issue at this time is deciding on internal parts. While the goal is 400hp I would like it to be able to handle a bit more just in case..

Looking at DSM Graveyard and thinking of going frankenstien rods with 2G piston. But my concern is, will that combo handle the hp or do I need to step it up a bit?

Suggestions??





 
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curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
First which turbo now or in the future that tells us alot? Also be prepared the tinkeritus will turn into a bad case of the JSB's really fast around here. Then you'll end up with the mid life crochrocket warts and the BMWitus which the doctors creme can't treat. Not going to mention anyone's names. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

bmxkid415

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Jan 27, 2008
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204
Location
Bradenton FL
Welcome! Congratulations on getting the fastest color!
 

AnotherNewb

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,471
Location
Orlando, FL
Sweet score!

Most mitsu guys frown at turning a factory crank shaft due to the depth of the case hardening. If your crank isn't scored a simple polishing will suffice, otherwise I would suggest a replacement crank. Your rod/piston choice is fine for your goals, even a stock crank will hold that much power, just wouldn't recomend it cut. Gl with the build.
 

+1 ^^^^


Welcome nice ride! With CG on this one i'd look for a stocker in good shape, Grinding our cranks isnt recomended.



Jesse
 

The8er

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
For the time being I'm planning to run a 16G, 2G head and intake. Rebuild the head with new seals, BC Titanium spring and retainers, Comp Cams (259) 272 equivalent, 3g lifters, DSM Graveyard regind valves, Cometic MLS HG, ARP HS.

I'm now a bit concerned on the crank grind. Can someone expand on why this is a concern.

When I got a hold of this the engine had been sitting a while with water/coolant in it. There was quit a bit of rust and the machine shop said it would need to be ground that a polish would not take out the pitting. I'm into this crank a bit over a hundred already and would like to use it but if it's that big of a conern I will look toward a different route.

Thanks all for the input.
 
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Our Cranks are Nitrate coated, making it harder. Cutting them takes the Nitrate off making it easier to spin bearings ect. Usually the most advised to do is polish.


Jesse
 

AnotherNewb

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Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,471
Location
Orlando, FL
Since turning a factory crank is a passionatly debated topic, I'll let you read someone elses debate:

DSM Talk

Im sure you father is an old muscle car guy at heart and thats awesome. The problem is that very few of the tricks and technics that the muscle guys use to do work on these cars. The same applies to honda guys, we have a lot of honda people that switch over to the dark side only to find that what they did to their civic wont work on a mitsu turbo. Take headers for instance, throw one on a honda and gain 8% more hp, a mitsu... not likely. In fact, for most people, a ported 2g exhaust manifold will be more than enough for their applications...
Still with me? Rebuilding your motor is a great step to a reliable DD as long as you spend your money wisely and do the proper up grades.

1: While you have your motor apart do a balance shaft eliminator. One less belt inside the timing cover to fail. The extra vibration is hardly noticeable.

2: Replace every rubber hose you can, i.e. vacuum lines, heater core lines, coolant lines. Replacing these while the motor is out is much easier than after its together and it will help eliminate many potential vacuum/boost leaks. Speaking of boost leaks, do some research on the subject. Many problems with drivablity are contributed to intercooler hoses and vacuum lines leaking.

3: Use factory gaskets, keep an extra valve cover gasket on hand.

Hope that rant helps...
 

The8er

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
The dicussion that was linked on DSM talk covers alot about 93+ cranks. It also states 6 bolt cranks are 30 deep in nitride so it seems that it could potentially cause an issue but if you have 7 bolt running with out any surfacing at all seams to me your a head of the game a bit with 20 left. I'm not saying your right nor wrong just seams your still ahead of the game.

Anyone else care to chime in or post a link. Anyone running a ground crank the has or has not had issue with it?


As for the 2G head. No real reason other than to follow what seams to be the latest. Seams to be alot of people are finding the 2G head to flow better and produce better results. I just happen to have a one sitting around and thought I would take advantage of it.
 
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turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
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Yakima, WA
The title of this thread makes me think of Lionel Ritchie everytime I see it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Quoting The8er:
When I got a hold of this the engine had been sitting a while with water/coolant in it. There was quit a bit of rust and the machine shop said it would need to be ground that a polish would not take out the pitting.




Why was there water/coolant in the oilpan?
 

alansupra94

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hello-is-it-me.jpg
 

The8er

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Quoting 14u2nV:
Quoting The8er:
When I got a hold of this the engine had been sitting a while with water/coolant in it. There was quit a bit of rust and the machine shop said it would need to be ground that a polish would not take out the pitting.




Why was there water/coolant in the oilpan?



I didn't break the engine down so I'm not sure what the oil pan contents where. I will have to ask. When I got ahold of it there was rust in the internal block and lower section of the cylinder walls, the crank had bit of rust on the main journals. IT is thought the o-ring on the front water pipe at the water pump went bad and that the engine was ran until it stopped running from heat.

Another issue I have run into is wiring. It appears some of the wiring in the engine is brittle likely from being 1. old and 2. exposed to extreme heat.

DAMN this is going to be a bigger project than I had expected.
 

steve

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowroflr.gif


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1990ggsxnj

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

alansupra94

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Quoting steveGLS:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowroflr.gif


img.php




I see you like my post. That will be about three-fifty.
 
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