The Authoritative Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

FS: IA 1992 Nile Black #205/1000 excellent condition $4800obo

Schnurd

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
6
Location
Ankeny, IA
This is copied from the original post blacksheep made for when he was selling the car:

Quote:
- Nile Black with sunroof.
- I bought the car from the forums here in December 2012 from Michigan. You can probably find the ad unless its been deleted.

The Good:

The car is stock except for:

- 2.5" turbo-back exhaust and a Jun BL muffler. Came this way. Stock exhaust had rotted and replaced with this.
- Rockford Fosgate period-correct CD player. Have the dual din stock headunit with CD player. Unsure if it works or not, but will go with the car.
- Body is in great shape overall. Original paint shines and only fade is in the windshield moldings the usual upper door frames (but is not ashy white).
- Interior is in excellent shape for a car this old, drivers seat bolster has one larger worn area, but not cracked thru. Rear seats are perfect. Steering is in decent shape as well. Carpet is in excellent shape.
- Engine is bone stock. It even has the original air box and the goofy front airbox intake dealie with the lid on it.
- Trunk paneling, spare tire, tool kit all there.
- Have owners manual and keyfob as well.
- I got a ton of service records from the previous owner which date back a ways. I think he was the 2nd owner and I am the 3rd.
- Runs and drives just fine. No rattles, creaks and such.

Since I bought the car, I have done the following:
- New oil pan
- New front lower control arms.
- New outer tie rod ends.
- New front swaybar endlinks.
- Transmission flush and BG in it. It shifts great and no grinds. Actually impressed with this transmission.
- Replace axle seal on transmission on drivers side.
- T-case has redline shockproof (red in color).
- Rear differential was flushed as well.
- All new rotors, calipers and brake pads on all 4 corners and completely flushed out old brake fluid and replaced with new.
- I have new camber bolts to go with the car, it does not pull at all and goes straight as I measured and installed the tie rod ends and camber position on the bolt. On Friday, August 23rd, I had the car aligned at Firestone. Caster and Toe was off. The car does drive better now and tires seem to grip more. Cost me $90.
- Tires are decent, but older. Previous owner didnt drive the car much at all.
- Timing belt and such was all done recently by previous owner.
- I put castrol in it and a mobil 1 oil filter.
- It has a cool mitsubishi OEM sunroof wind deflector. Only one I have seen.
- Previous owner believes it came with a fixed antenna from factory. I need to go thru the records and see if had been swapped at some point.
- 4WS is intact and no leaks.
- Sunroof, AC, cruise, ABS, heat windows, locks etc all work.
- Has all emissions.

Now for the bad:

- A couple of dings here and there. Rock chips on the front bumper. It adds to the patina of the car.
- One of previous owners must have had a damn cat that liked to sit on the car. A few scratch marks here and there on the trunklid and roof. I hate cats for a reason...
- The usual dash lift in the defroster vent area. Original mats are pretty worn, but still there.
- I noticed the area around the oil pan is slightly wet again tonight, but I think its coming from up higher, guessing the oil line that runs into the filter housing. I have no ambition to fix it.
- The idle is somewhat funky, it hangs at 2K when idling down and then drops to 1000 or less.
- Bottom of front doors show some bubbling rust. I will take pictures of these for sure.
- Passenger side windshield molding trim is missing, I have a set of new OEM molding for both sides which will go with the car.
- Trunk will not open with the key.
- Gas door seems temperamental - will pop sometimes. It does not release sometimes. Have to use the key to open it.

Finally, the ugly:

- No secrets here, the front frame rails are rusted, especially passengers side. The bottom of the fenders are gone on both sides. The doglegs went back on, but bottom two bolts are unsecured. I don't have the skills to fix it, nor the money and time.

At this point, I am just selling it to cut my losses which in all honesty is huge. I paid top dollar for this car thinking it was mint and all the pictures I got didn't indicate the cancer that was hiding beneath. I could use it as a beater, but it depresses me to even see it sitting in the garage anymore.





The car currently has just over 133k on it now and i dont get to drive it very much. Since owning it i have done the following things to it:
-tinted 35% all the way around except the windshield.
-1g eclipse shifter
-Philips CrystalVision 65w low beams.
-full cut and buff detail (destroyed 2 foam pads cutting the car...huge improvement)
-K&N drop in air filter, and cut open the bottom of the air canister for more airflow...yea i know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
-removed the boost control solenoid restrictor
-Kenwood bluetooth & USB receiver
-all new Kenwood speakers up front
-wired for sub and amp...also have 12" MTX sub (may include/sell seperate)
-oil change with with Rotella T & WIX oil filter
-shorty metal antenna

Also will come with the following or may sell seperate:
-no name intercooler...its huge
-ebay 16g that looks almost brand new
-OEM sunroof wind deflector
-OEM underhood heat shield still in wrapper
-OEM front window trim pieces still in wrapper
-stock radio stuff & Rockford Fosgate that came with it when i bought it
-Auto Meter boost gauge brand new in box
-spare key & OEM key chain plaque
-2 gallons of Rotella T
-extra passenger headlight (need to replace one on car now that has a small chip in it)
2g exhaust manifold (has cracks) & 2g throttle body elbow
GM MAF (believe its a 3")
-cheapo oil/coolant catch can
-Broadway clip-on mirror


Really im not in any hurry to sell it, but i would like to see it go to somebody who can use/care for it a little more...or even have to funds to make it a beast /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif So im gonna start out at $4800 OBO

Will add pics and edit as i go, thanks for looking!















 
Last edited:

Schnurd

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
6
Location
Ankeny, IA
i should comment on the part about the rust that he mentioned. i havent dug into it but as of now you cant notice it at all and i havent tore into it to see what its like. i believe all it really needs is someone to repair/replace the front rocker area and get new fenders!
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,762
Location
O-H-I-O
Quoting Schnurd:
i should comment on the part about the rust that he mentioned. i havent dug into it but as of now you cant notice it at all and i havent tore into it to see what its like. i believe all it really needs is someone to repair/replace the front rocker area and get new fenders!



Please don't act like it's an easy fix. The repairs will cost ~$1,500. That was why Blacksheep sold it. And now it sounds like you are downplaying it, and trying to make a fast $1,000 profit
 
Last edited:

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,762
Location
O-H-I-O
Mech,

The rust is extensive. It was rusted completely gone in spots under the fender caps. So the rocker panel on BOTH sides, and BOTH ends need repaired or replaced. The frame rails, which are structural, have rust. The bottom of the fenders are missing, completely gone. I believe the doors can be fixed, and won't need replaced.

The opinion of fellow members was that the rust was so bad, that it wasn't worth fixing unless you could do it yourself. The car probably has another decade of driving in it though, whoever buys it should drive it until the wheels fall off, literally.
 
Last edited:

Schnurd

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
6
Location
Ankeny, IA
Funny thing...im not downplaying it. I know blacksheep and am friends with him, I know how he is with cars and he doesnt cheap out on anything. The fact is is this car would be awesome for someone whos looking for a very clean example of one of these and knows what they're doing to be able to replace the front rockers.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,678
Location
Klamath Falls, Or
Quoting Mech_Automator:
I did use the search function, but the pictures are no longer there. Hard to look at the "extensive breakdown" with no images.




I had no idea they were gone. Sorry.
 

Mech_Automator

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Messages
4
Location
South Dakota
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Mech,

The rust is extensive. It was rusted completely gone in spots under the fender caps. So the rocker panel on BOTH sides, and BOTH ends need repaired or replaced. The frame rails, which are structural, have rust. The bottom of the fenders are missing, completely gone. I believe the doors can be fixed, and won't need replaced.

The opinion of fellow members was that the rust was so bad, that it wasn't worth fixing unless you could do it yourself. The car probably has another decade of driving in it though, whoever buys it should drive it until the wheels fall off, literally.



Thanks, just wanted a little more detail. I appreciate the response.
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
2,153
Location
NYC
Quoting Schnurd:

dings here and there.
Rock chips on the front bumper
scratch marks here and there on the trunklid and roof
dash lift in the defroster vent area
Original mats are pretty worn, but still there.
area around the oil pan is slightly wet again tonight
idle is somewhat funky, it hangs at 2K when idling down and then drops to 1000 or less.
Bottom of front doors show some bubbling rust
Passenger side windshield molding trim is missing, I have a set of new OEM molding for both sides which will go with the car.
Trunk will not open with the key.
Gas door seems temperamental - will pop sometimes. It does not release sometimes. Have to use the key to open it.
the front frame rails are rusted, especially passengers side.
The bottom of the fenders are gone on both sides.
The doglegs went back on, but bottom two bolts are unsecured




Why would you list "excellent condition" in the title when obviously its far from it?
 

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,719
Location
Houston, Texas
Has all that rust and it's In excellent condition, and selling it for 4800?? Wow and mine is a rust free Cali car and I paid 4000. Just sayin.
 

blacksheep

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
15,480
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
OK, time for me to jump in. Let's all take it easy...

Is that car a $5500 car? Yes, all day if the rust wasn't there. I actually paid a little more than that to buy it. Of course, I was buying it thinking it was a clean, clean car. And given it was an almost clean virgin car with solid records, I thought it was worth it.

I bought it and ran into the rust replacing the lower control arms. I did get quotes to try and fix it. I got anywhere from $500 to $1500. I know some people even posted and said it was easy to fix if you knew what you are doing. I did not want to advertise the car for $5500 with the rust as my ad said. So, I just assumed that worst case it costs 2K to fix even, I will sell it for 3500.

I will also mention that the list of work was done by me and yes, I did not cheap out and half-ass the car back together to dump it. I could have, but I would not have that on my conscience. I had already purchased all the parts and added more parts and got it fixed and running. This stuff cost me a lot - New pan, all new fluids, new control arms, new rotors, pads and calipers, endlinks etc. Add it all up, its a decent chunk of money... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Did I give it away and could I have asked for more - probably! Thad is possibly thinking the rust will take a lot less to fix and he does have some auto education/experience, so its possible he is thinking its a lot less to fix? Anyways, if you don't like his asking price, don't make a post to say that. If you don't like it, walk away.
 

Latest posts

Top